Need Mechanic

[ray_reilly]

Well I broke it. Had a crack in my water pump housing. (YM2000) ordered new one Broke bolt off in head installing new one. Try easy out, broke it also got most of it out ruined threads. Need Help Any one know of mechanic in the Sanford, Eustis, Deland area of Central Florida. In my defense the new housing is .25 inch thinner then old one.

Hope to hear from someone soon
Ray

 

[kenmac]

is it possible to use this Heli-Coil, Helicoil, Helicoil Insert, Helicoil Tap, Helicoil Inserts, Helicoil Gauge, Helicoil Kit, Helicoils, Emhart Helicoil, Bollhoff Helicoil, Helicoil Plus, Armacoil, Armstrong Helicoil product to make the repair ?

 

[winston1]

Touchy situation here. I have had success in going just a tiney bit larger and maybe go to a inch size bolt the size larger than the metric you are dealing with. Not saying this is your answer but something you might look at.

 

[ray_reilly]

I believe the products would work. But I think I'm at my limit would like to hand off so I don't do something I can't recover from.

 

[California]

The bottomed-out, jammed bolt plus the hi-tensile steel ezout that snapped are both stuck in the head with nothing protruding to get a grip on?

Pull the head and take to an automotive machine shop if you want it done right.

 

[ray_reilly]

How difficult is pulling the head. No garage working in yard. I have replaced water pumps and starters done oil changes and alike.

 

[California]

Pulling the head on that little two cylinder engine is real simple, no more complicated than a starter or water pump except several times longer to do.

The only parts that are critical are cleanliness, head bolt torque, and adjusting the valves and the compression release. And don't drop the pushrods down into the pan.
All the rest of it is 'well this is in the way so I obviously need to take it off' like the air cleaner, fuel lines, etc.

You must already have the fan shroud off and that is maybe 10% of the project right there.

If you have to work outdoors, you might work over a tarp to catch anything that falls. You can still drive the tractor a few feet without coolant in it, if you need to move to a carport or something.

Given the location of that broken bolt I think it would be impossible (for a weekend mechanic) to accurately center punch a starting point for your drill and then drill in perfectly straight. - into that tempered ezout that probably didn't snap off perfectly flat.

 

[ray_reilly]

1st try uploading a photo. I pulled the head and will be sending to a machine shop. But I had one injector that was loose. If you look at the valves the rusty one was the loose one. Should I be worried about this if so what would the fix be. I have other photos am going to try to piece them together as a photo repair. And thanks for the recommendation on putting the tarp under the tractor it came in handy more then once!!

 

[Toyboy]

If you don't have a torque wrench it would be wise to get one to torque the head bolts. You don't need to break another bolt. All bolts have a tightening torque value.

 

[California]

I agree, a torque wrench is essential for this.

Looking at that head I wonder if the rust is coolant that got past a leaky head gasket. It also looks like compression went the other way, smoking up the gasket sealing surface near the coolant passage. Exhaust in the coolant will cause overheating. Was overheating what caused you to replace the water pump?

If water got in the cylinder before cranking it over in the morning, that might explain the loose injector - water is incompressible so the cylinder pressure had to go somewhere, if it didn't crack the piston or bend a rod. Maybe the injector was the 'safety valve' this time.

I'm just speculating. The shop that repairs the head will be able to tell more when they look at it.

 

[Jaylegger]

1st try uploading a photo. I pulled the head and will be sending to a machine shop. But I had one injector that was loose. If you look at the valves the rusty one was the loose one. Should I be worried about this if so what would the fix be. I have other photos am going to try to piece them together as a photo repair. And thanks for the recommendation on putting the tarp under the tractor it came in handy more then once!!

I'm not a mechanic but did own a Ford truck once so I consider myself more than qualified to answer anything vehicle repair related. I would think the rust in the cylinder would be indicative of coolant leaking into the cylinder likely from a breached head gasket.

 

[kenmac]

I'm in agreement with others. That rust shouldn't be there.You can even see the rust on that piston.. Coolant leak somewhere caused that

 

[irwin]

Sometimes I just gotta believe in fate...

By the looks of your head it's a good thing you removed it.. now it can be cleaned up..milled if needed and reassembled with new gaskets and everything torqued properly. Have the machine shop check the valves while it's there.... breaking that waterpump bolt just might'a been a good thing.

BTW, I'm leary of making the upper engine too tight without addressing the rings, so don't go overboard seating the valve unless you're prepared to replace rings, hone cylinders, etc.... It could become an oil burner otherwise.

Good luck

 

[beenthere]

Good job on the pics. Thanks.

Use some penetrating oil before removing nuts and head bolts...might not do any good, but take every advantage you can over breaking a head bolt or stud.

I like and use a good one, calle RustReaper. New and very effective. Don't use Kroil any more.

 

[careyo63]

Good eye Cali. was looking at the same thing on the rust also and how it looked to be getting into the cylinder. I'm on my Mini lap top so it's hard to tell.But I couldn't see any signs of the rust on the gasket to the cyl. maybe were the oil is? No doubt have a good machine shop check the head for a Crack if it doesn't show any warpage.Thats IMO. and I'm Far from a expert.I also agree with Irwin also on going ahead and putting rings in it most of the hard work is already done and you will Prob. be good for another 30+ yrs.

Carey

 

[ray_reilly]

Thanks for all the great suggestions. I will have the machine shop check it out. I was also if anyone can steer me toward a replacement for this part. I have a 2 piece exhaust I quess because of the FEL but mine is cracked and hoye does not have a replacment.

 

[mikereid]

Thanks for all the great suggestions. I will have the machine shop check it out. I was also if anyone can steer me toward a replacement for this part. I have a 2 piece exhaust I quess because of the FEL but mine is cracked and hoye does not have a replacment.

I cut the flange off one of mine and got a muffler from tractor supply and a 90 deg exhaust pipe from advance autoparts and welded mine together. Then I used 1200 deg black paint on it. Total cost $35.

 

[California]

I have a 2 piece exhaust I quess because of the FEL but mine is cracked and hoye does not have a replacment.

That looks to me like the bottom half of the standard $90 (??) muffler that belongs on there. You might measure and see if the standard replacement will fit. Seems to me the loader builder would have allowed space for the standard muffler.

You might find that the standard flat muffler used on smaller Yanmars gives more clearance than the long round one that I think was original for YM1500.

Or just take the tractor to a muffler shop. (after it is back together). They would likely reuse that flange and build you a custom exhaust.

 

[1danny]

Thanks for all the great suggestions. I will have the machine shop check it out. I was also if anyone can steer me toward a replacement for this part. I have a 2 piece exhaust I quess because of the FEL but mine is cracked and hoye does not have a replacment.

How about this?

 

[normde2001]

The head gasket looks good, it's on the block, and unblemished. That crud had to leak out of the head after removal. I'm guessing the water got in through the exhaust.