Need help with purchase of weight distribution hitch

   / Need help with purchase of weight distribution hitch
  • Thread Starter
#61  
OK, so I move slow. I'm the OP and this is what I bought. Got it on Amazon for $318 and I'm ready to use it soon. It seemed like the best $$ and it was the type that would not interfere with my chain basket.

It has a sway control bar that I probably will not mount because it requires drilling into the side of my trailer frame and I'm not sure I should do that.



It's a CornPro UT-18H open trailer as shown below. I usually haul 7,000-8,000 lbs but sometimes 10,000.

UTH | Corn Pro Trailers

cornpro.com cornpro.com


Thank you all for your help and guidance.
 
   / Need help with purchase of weight distribution hitch #62  
You should be happy with that setup. May be harder to lock into place than you had to be since they are rated for 14K pounds and only pulling 10K trailers.
 
   / Need help with purchase of weight distribution hitch
  • Thread Starter
#63  
BoylermanCT said:
You should be happy with that setup. May be harder to lock into place than you had to be since they are rated for 14K pounds and only pulling 10K trailers.
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Help me understand that. My trailer is pretty rugged and rated 12,000 lbs. The same trailer with bigger axles is rated 14,000 lbs. Why does the amount I'm pulling matter?
 
   / Need help with purchase of weight distribution hitch
  • Thread Starter
#64  
Another question. When driving a tractor up onto a flat trailer with a weight distribution hitch, can I feel the pressure on the tongue of the trailer so I know I have sufficient tongue weight?
 
   / Need help with purchase of weight distribution hitch #65  
sixdogs said:
Another question. When driving a tractor up onto a flat trailer with a weight distribution hitch, can I feel the pressure on the tongue of the trailer so I know I have sufficient tongue weight?
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That's really two separate things. Position the tractor so there's sufficient tongue weight, then use the WD to bring the rear of the tow vehicle back up.
 
   / Need help with purchase of weight distribution hitch #66  
I also load the trailer before setting the spring bars, watching for the truck rear to drop a few inches. I then take some weight off with the trailer jack to make setting the spring bars easier. When loading the spring bars I confirm that the rear of the truck goes back to unloaded height, or close to it.
That's just ballpark close though. For loads I trailer frequently I scale the tongue weight with a small RV type hydraulic scale and mark the trailer.
 
   / Need help with purchase of weight distribution hitch #67  
sixdogs said:
Help me understand that. My trailer is pretty rugged and rated 12,000 lbs. The same trailer with bigger axles is rated 14,000 lbs. Why does the amount I'm pulling matter?
Click to expand...
The higher weight rating on the distribution hitch, the stiffer the bars are. I have 2 WD hitches, a 6000 lb set for my camper and a 14000 lb set for my equipment trailer. The 14000 is much harder to set the bars. It doesn't matter how much the trailer weighs.
 
   / Need help with purchase of weight distribution hitch #68  
The instructions should help you with this. Remember, the purpose of the weight distribution is to insure the correct amount of weight is on both front and rear axle of the vehicle so that the steering will not be affected by too much weight on the rear axle. When you set it up, the instructions will probably ask you to measure the height of both the front and rear of the truck to insure they don't change very much.
After it is set up, the more weight on the tongue, the more pressure on the torsion bars, and more weight transferred to the front axle.

Usually, when setting it up, they will ask that you set the trailer level and adjust the truck hitch a little higher than the hitch (about 1/2 to one inch) to start.

You probably already know all this.
It does take time to hook up your trailer with WD. If I am carrying a heavy load (tractor and implements), I figure on allowing about 30 minutes for hookup. It is easier for me to NOT use the trailer jack, but to use a bottle jack when hooking up. The more weight you put on the torsion bars at hookup, and the longer it may take to hookup.

I always scale a heavy load at a CAT scale. It will show if the front axle is light and the rear axle is carrying too much weight. Use CAT app. It will shoe the weight of each axle, both vehicle axles and the trailer axle. CAT scale cost $13.50 to weigh - $3.50 if you need to rescale.

Then - how does it feel when you drive it - too bouncy - feel heavy on the road bumps, rear sways too much. All issues you may wan to correct. Best Wishes
 
   / Need help with purchase of weight distribution hitch #69  
Once you start paying attention to tow ratings and requirements you notice alot of trucks out towing equipment that should have WD hitches but don't. Probably 90% towing stuff without a WD hitch that the manual says needs one a 10% that actually use one.
 
   / Need help with purchase of weight distribution hitch #70  
Fixastuff said:
Once you start paying attention to tow ratings and requirements you notice alot of trucks out towing equipment that should have WD hitches but don't. Probably 90% towing stuff without a WD hitch that the manual says needs one a 10% that actually use one.
Click to expand...

True. I towed a 7k landscape trailer for years without needing a WD hitch. Technically if I was at the 7k GTWR I should have used a WD hitch, as my truck specifies 6k and heavier requires WD.
When I recently upgraded my trailer to a 12k WD became mandatory with more than about 3.3k of cargo.
 
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