Need Dump Trailer info.

/ Need Dump Trailer info. #1  

Pird

New member
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
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22
I need some advise on dump trailers. I have a YM2210D (about 25HP 4WD) with a FEL. I want to move a LARGE amount of dirt from a dried up lake to a sinkhole. Moving distance is less than 1000 feet and fairly level. Would like to do it myself without spending a lot of bucks.
I have never used or for that matter seen a dump trailer. I do not have a feel for how big a trailer I should get that my tractor can handle. I guess I could get one slightly oversized and fill with dirt according to what the tractor can handle but I don’t know what size that would be. Also need some words on the types of dumping mechanisms. Any help will really be appreciated. Pird
 
/ Need Dump Trailer info. #2  
hellow, there are several things you need to consider
1 weight of tractor. most of the time you want to keep what you are hauling plus the weight of the trailer close to the weight of your tractor. 2 terrian. level ground will allow you to haul more weight as long as you dont have any hills the steeper the hill the less you will be able to haul remember it is all about stopping not pulling. if the ground is soft that will limit how much you can haul. 3 material. the dirt will determin weight also wet,clay,sandy,rocky. the best thing to do is use a trailer similar or smaller in size to your tractor. when you get the trailer take baby steps and load light and keep adding a little each load till you notice what makes the tractor start to grunt then you will have an idea of what the limits are. if you look under build it yourself on this forum you will see one i just posted. hope this helps and always be carefull take it slow till you learn. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
/ Need Dump Trailer info. #4  
I use a couple different style dump trailers in my landscape business. The one I seem to keep going to is an E-Z Dump, 6X12 low profile 10,000 pounder. This is a two axle trailer with electric brakes. This particular model is a little too oversized for your use, but there are smaller models available. Below is a list of those items I feel makes this trailer so useful:

1. low profile keeps load close to ground.
2. "Barn door" gates make for better dumping control.
3. Independent battery powered pum system for dump
4. Road ready for additional uses.
5. Low profile is great for equipment loading (this model came with ramps).
6. Low profile easy to load with FEL
7. Great Mulch/Stone hauler for dumping or manual offloading.

Hope this info. is useful to you
 
/ Need Dump Trailer info. #5  
Kim, what if you wanted to haul a bunch of trash, would your trailer easily accomoadate adding some kind of extensions? I see many low sided trailers while my neighbor has a fairly tall sided one, about 6' and he still has extensions on top of that if he needs them. I like the idea of low sides for easy loading but would want to have the ability to increase my capacity for light material. Thanks, Rat...
 
/ Need Dump Trailer info. #6  
My trailer is the same setup as Kim's, just a different brand. It's got stakehole pockets down each side that you can put a 2X4 in. My trailer has 20" sides and I put a 16" extension on. I've seen them like you said with much higher extensions also. Love my dump trailer. During the summer it's hooked to my truck more than it's not. I've got the regular tailgate on mine and I can see the advantages of the barn door type.
 
/ Need Dump Trailer info. #7  
My trailer (not a dump kind) has metal foot high rails around it. PLUS, it has stake pockets. I built a set of 1x12s to fit in the stake pockets to carry a low load.

I figure when the daughter needs to move back from college, I'll build 4 ft high sides on it and have something that can move her in one trip.

I agree, having options for rails is really nice!

ron
 
/ Need Dump Trailer info. #8  
I just went thru the process of buying one. Some things to look for (in no particular order of importance);

- Lockable battery/hydraulics box. This appears to be standard on bigger trailers (10+ft long) but not on smaller ones.
- Deep draw marine battery: Lasts longer between charges. Also, some systems have a bulit-in charging system so that when it's plugged into your vehicle it will recharge the battery.
- Remote control dump: some are tethered by a 10-20ft cord, some are wireless. If either version will reach to the seat of your vehicle you can meter the dump as you pull away.
- Lift mechanism: single piston, single piston with scissor lift, dual piston. I've heard each of them praised and brashed; depends on what type the sales guy was selling.
- Tailgate design: some trailers have just one of these types and others incorporate a multi-function rear door that consists of barn door, drop door (like a pick-up), or lift door with metering chains (like a dump truck).
- If you plan on heavy hauling check-out the cross beam design underneath the bed of the trailer. It should be hefty center & side beams with cross-bracing. Look for multiple D-rings - or places to weld them yourself - if you're thinking of hauling equipment in it.
- Power-up/power-down vs power-up/gravity-down. Power both ways is prefferred but it comes at a higher cost.
- Powder coat finish vs enamel paint: powder will look nicer, longer.
- How much $$ is in your wallet: Depending on whether you want the Chevy or the Cadillac, and what size, prices will range from $2k up to $8-9k. There are some new ones on eBay and I've seen them occasionally in the classifieds. I think TSC even has some real small ones now. It's one of the items people buy and rarely let go of.

-Norm
 
/ Need Dump Trailer info. #9  
one thing no one has mentioned is how it SETS when you fill it up, and hook up on it when full.

this is the problem I ran/run into with mine. I load it using the tractor FEL and then hook up and pull it with tractor. problem is if you get too much in back it can and will dump it's self on you when raises the ball mount to about 6' high ( done it 2 times now... /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif bent up the hitch lowering it once using the FEL down force then wedged in some fire wood under the back. while I built mine I wanted it short and somewhat high for single site dumping & towing through woods & tight corners in the stream. (hauling crick run out for my own use.) so far about 40 + loads. I now bought a swing back trailer jack for the back of it so when I disconnect it I can load from any spot and it will stay level. it has side crank and will be mounted to the back drivers side of the dump. I have dual gate which will meter dump or drop down like a pickup tailgate. or it can be removed simple 4 bolt on design.

Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
/ Need Dump Trailer info. #10  
This model has 20" inch metal sides that have front and rear "pockets" for adding to the height, the front panel also has "pockets" right and left. Right now I have a single layer of 2X12's bolted into them. You could frame up as high as you need without too much trouble. Adding to the height of the barn doors would be a little more involved. Most of the time I see guys usng some form of webbing if needed.
 
/ Need Dump Trailer info. #11  
One item I wanted to do was to try for 16" x 8 lug wheels which would match my trucks. I like the tires that take 85 PSI both for durability and load ability whether I ever could load to that degree or not. I notice some places give you the option.
 
/ Need Dump Trailer info. #12  
I just today decided what to do in a similar situation. I'll tell you the options that I found, and what I decided.

First, what most others have suggested here is a road-ready dump trailer that is designed to be pulled by a pick-up. There is nothing wrong with that option, but you will end up with more trailer than you need, if you truly need just to move material from one side of a property to the other. They're expensive, heavy, have to be liscensed, and are not ready to be pulled by your tractor. However, if you might need to move material over the road and they're not a budget buster for you, that is the way you should go.

I was in the situation of having a nice box trailer and a nice flat bed, with little need or desire to add a third road ready trailer to the stable. I decided that for the sake of my yard and my pocketbook, I wanted an off-road designed trailer that came ready to tow with a draw bar hitch.

The first thing I found, by searching through some old archives here in TBN was the trailers from Pronovost. They offer an excellent range of off road trailers that appear to made to the most exacting standards. However, all but their smallest model are very expensive and the freight to the Midwest from Quebec took them out of contention for me.

Just to back up for a moment to the issue of size. According to the manual for my new John Deere 4410, you should never tow more than 1-1/2 times the weight of the tractor without trailer brakes and never more than 2-1/2 times with brakes. That meant that I was looking for a trailer with a capacity around 4500 pounds unless I wanted to try and find an off road trailer with brakes and then try to get the brakes to work with my tractor. The small Pronovost has a capacity of 3000 pounds, which means that every trip I took, I was leaving 1500 pounds behind that I could have been moving. The 5000 pound capacity Pronovost is over double the cost of the 3000.

While driving by my favorite ag store, I noticed that they were parking some new shiny Spring merchandise, one item of which was an off road trailer. Narrowly avoiding a couple of accidents, I got my truck slowed down and got across enough lanes to get turned into the parking lot. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif It was from King Kutter and looked like a dandy little trailer. I gave it a good looking over and talked to a kid in the lot, who knew next to nothing, but was friendly and helpful and suggested that I go in the office and check with one of the senior guys. I decided to check it out on the web, instead. Click here to learn about the King Kutter XB Again, I bumped up against that 3000 pound limit. The trailer was similarly sized to the Pronovost 503, but it was right here in my back yard and for 1400 dollars including a hand pump instead of 1400 with a cylinder and nothing else (and sitting in Quebec). My hand twitched toward my wallet, but I resisted and decided to check out some more options.

By far my favorite find was the trailers from Midsota. These look just wonderful and at better prices than the Pronovost, though with better specs. Their small trailer is a bit more expensive at 2100 dollars, but it is bigger, has 7200 pound capacity, and comes ready to plug into my rear hydraulic controls. If they had a unit in stock, and freight had not been a jaw-dropping 900 dollars, I would have jumped on this one. If you're close enough to make a trip about an hour west of Minneapolis and/or you're looking for something a little bigger, these are the guys I would suggest you contact.

I ended up buying a trailer from Country Manufacturing. You can find one of the two trailers on the linked page (the tandem axle version) at Northern Hydraulics. This trailer is a little bigger than the King Kutter or the Pronovost and has another 1000 pounds of capacity -- just about right for my tractor. Despite the problems of trying to back it, I opted for the wagon style, with the wheels in the front. That way, I can use the tractor to load the trailer and not have a battle on my hands trying to get it hooked up when it is full. The price on Northern Hydraulics is less, but does not include shipping. Buying direct from the manufacturer, the price includes shipping to a business address or the terminal closest to your place. They also offer both the tandem axle and wagon style. The $1,390 price does not include hydraulics, but even with buying a cylinder and hoses, it will still be the second least expensive option, just a little more than the King Kutter, but with a bigger bed and power hydraulics instead of a hand pump.

If this thread is still active next week when the trailer arrives, I'll add some pictures. If it's been dormant a while, I'll start a new one once I have had a couple of days to live with the new trailer.
 
/ Need Dump Trailer info. #14  
RaT.

Here's a picture of a trailer like Kim has. (EZ Dump 10k low profile) Note the corner extensions to hold 2 X ? lumber for extra height. I made some extensions, not shown, using 1.5 angle iron to make a frame and plywood inside the frame. The frame could be any height if you are strong enough to lift it.

This particular trailer had the brake wires torn off using it off road.

John
 

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/ Need Dump Trailer info. #17  
Rat that's what I did a couple of years ago. My dump trailer uses the same 16" tires as my trucks on 8 lug wheels. The front bulkhead is 6' high by 8' wide. The sides are removable in stages. Each side consists of two 3' high panels stacked to get a total of 6' height. You can strip the top side panels and end up with 3' sides or strip both on each side for a flatbed with a rub rail for chaining or strapping loads. The rear doors are set up for use either as barn doors or by pulling out various pins you can have a drop down or pivot at the top. You could have the top door pivot at the top and the bottom pivot at the bottom.

The builder also added a valve so I can use the tractor hydraulics to dump as an alternate to the electric pump. The axles are heavier than the trailer rating and have the center hub grease fitting so the bearings can be lubed and water driven out after running through the creek.
 
/ Need Dump Trailer info. #18  
That's a Ford 1920. 33 or 34 HP gross, weighs in the low 3000 lb range without the loader. No problem handling that trailer loaded with what I estimated was maximum weight on level ground.

John
 
/ Need Dump Trailer info. #19  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The builder also added a valve so I can use the tractor hydraulics to dump as an alternate to the electric pump. )</font>

Great idea. I think it takes about 45 seconds or so to tilt mine all the way, then another 45 to lower it. Doesn't seem like much until you have a lot of loads. The tractor hydraulics must lift it in just a few seconds.

Another nice feature would be using the trailer hydraulics to replace the screw driven tongue jack. Next time my thrust bearing rusts out, I may do that.

John
 
/ Need Dump Trailer info. #20  
I just traded my 2003 Polaris ProX 700 (snowmobile) for a 6 x 12 U-Dump on Friday /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif I hate to see the sled go, but the current projects are more important at this point. I traded even with the Polaris dealer. He's also a U-Dump trailer dealer. It can hold about 9,000lbs. I'm going to modify it to run off the front hydraulics on the L39 somehow. It shouldn't be that hard to bypass the electric pump. We'll see.....
 

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