LD1
Epic Contributor
Who told you that?no I dont I was told that if i installed rear remote that I could not use my 3 point
Who told you that?no I dont I was told that if i installed rear remote that I could not use my 3 point
That should work in theory. The problem I see in your picture is everything is hard lines. That will make it more of a challenge. Also I see a power port, power beyond port but no tank port. Not sure how you will plumb back to tank.best i can do for a photo my thought add new 2 spool valve before this valve then plumb to JD valve would that work
I believe that is his loader valve.And what is the valve you have the picture of???
I think you are right. But wasnt sure.I believe that is his loader valve.
Thanks will try to digest this.I think you are right. But wasnt sure.
You can clearly see the P and PB ports well labeled.
And the PB line is removed in the photo where it feeds the 3PH.
It really doesnt matter where a new valve is installed. You can remove that PB line and install the valve there.....with the PB of the loader feeding the P of the new valve.....and the PB of the new valve going to the 3PH (where it is removed in the photo)....then pick up a T line somewhere.
OR, you can remove the P line going to that valve.....supply the new valve with wherever that P line is coming from (pump?)....and PB of the new valve would feed the P of the loader valve. Still pick up a T line.
Gotta add a tank line no matter what.
Only difference is priority.
Trying to activate BOTH valves at the same time.....the one that is first in the series is likely gonna be the one to move....until it is out of movement or you let off the lever....then the second valve will do its thing
Photo is of my valve but off the internet it is plumbed the sameI think you are right. But wasnt sure.
You can clearly see the P and PB ports well labeled.
And the PB line is removed in the photo where it feeds the 3PH.
It really doesnt matter where a new valve is installed. You can remove that PB line and install the valve there.....with the PB of the loader feeding the P of the new valve.....and the PB of the new valve going to the 3PH (where it is removed in the photo)....then pick up a T line somewhere.
OR, you can remove the P line going to that valve.....supply the new valve with wherever that P line is coming from (pump?)....and PB of the new valve would feed the P of the loader valve. Still pick up a T line.
Gotta add a tank line no matter what.
Only difference is priority.
Trying to activate BOTH valves at the same time.....the one that is first in the series is likely gonna be the one to move....until it is out of movement or you let off the lever....then the second valve will do its thing
thanks found the service book and took it up to dealer found that i can put in rear hydraulics to power the new valve using pb port old valve dealer had all the parts needed for power beyond kit so life is good thanks for the helpLooks like you didn't get a chance to finish your post. But from your earlier posting I kinda think you are going to say that the FEL valve does have a PB port....but that it is already plumbed somewhere - hopefully only to the to the 3pt hitch, but maybe to power steering??
So if I am correct, then you are now asking if you can put the two spool directional control valve for the two tilt and lift cylinders BEFORE the existing FEL valve instead of after it.
I would say that you could do that. It is going to depend a lot on whether you have power steering and a proportional valve for that power steering....and where that is in the circuit.
Without power steering I see no reason why it would not work. You haven't mentioned power steering so I'll proceed as if it isn't there to complicate things. A couple of things to think on though...
1. The new 2 spool valve you buy must have a PB port and the special PB adapter sleeve for that port because that is what you are going to run to the input side of the existing FEL valve.
2. Both of your spool valve assemblies have a return to sump port. Both have to be able to return fluid to the sump independently. Yes, you can "Y" them together and use low pressure hose, but only if the Y and the hose back to the sump are twice the diameter of the line from the ports to the Y. The reason is you do NOT want any back pressure in that return line. Smooth curves, etc.
3. Theoretically you can daisy-chain as many PBs and spool valves together as you want, but realistically each time you do so there is fluid friction that reduces the efficiency (mostly the cylinder speed) of the entire hydraulic flow system. The 970's hydraulics do not have much flow rate to spare, and the losses are additive.
So expect that both loader and 3pt will be slower to respond and their cylinders will move noticibly slower than before. Slow movement is more noticible - and irritating - with a FEL than the 3pt. And that is why we usually put the FEL spool valve as the first in the series and let the 3pt speed take more of the efficiency hit.
So it won't be perfect, but still ought to work. It still depends on power steering & how that is plumbed.
It sounds to me like you are on the right track & we are all learning.
rScotty
I used your info to show the dealer they were wrong abut power beyond cant be used with 3 point got the needed parts and installing power beyondI had an 870 of the same era. Adding rear remotes involved adding a kit to the tractor, was fairly straight forwards. It did not interfere with the 3 point hitch.
problem is, I believe that add on kit was near impossible to find anymore. I remember a few years back someone was trying to find the kit and was told it was discontinued. Have no idea if there were aftermarket units available.
if I remember correctly it was called a power beyond kit.