My R3039 Mods
- Thread starter mangus580
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mangus580
Gold Member
Cow? We have one of those too! (well 2 now)
And I cant really say my idea is 'original' either.... (friend of mine in Florida)
LindenBruce
Gold Member
Your picture just made me think of something specific to the LS tractor. Do you know if there is enough room under the hood to install a higher amperage alternator? Because with that and an inverter you can run your saw right from the tractor.
As for cows when I was growing up we had a Cow named Ol'Bossy. She was the best cow ever and I have lots of fond memories of that good old cow. She gave us a meat calf every year for nearly 20 years. Bruce
OP
mangus580
Gold Member
Added pipes to keep some chains in today. Currently zip tied on with heavy ties. Considering steel brackets and bolts.... we shall see how long these hold up. Also mocked up where I will put the chainsaw mount. I suspect it will end up on the right side - blocking the ability to get off that side when the saw is in the mount. I think the mount will not be in the way at least if the saw is not there. Still deciding.
Also grabbed a metal tool box from home depot to mount some place. Will work on that some tomorrow, although I am sure bracket fabrication will be required for sure there....
Also grabbed a metal tool box from home depot to mount some place. Will work on that some tomorrow, although I am sure bracket fabrication will be required for sure there....
OP
mangus580
Gold Member
So I have added the diverter valve for my Grapple....
I had my dealership cut the factory hoses and add new ends to both sides. I also had hoses made up to reach the front. Added quick disconnects for the hoses headed to the front, and have a button temporarily zip tied to the joystick.
In hindsight, I would have not been so impatient and would have made sure I had my hoses the right length. I hae some that I feel are a little long....
I had my dealership cut the factory hoses and add new ends to both sides. I also had hoses made up to reach the front. Added quick disconnects for the hoses headed to the front, and have a button temporarily zip tied to the joystick.
In hindsight, I would have not been so impatient and would have made sure I had my hoses the right length. I hae some that I feel are a little long....
kennyd
Advertiser
In my opinion, the diverter valve is best mounted to the loader, like on the inside of the right upright/mast. That way it comes off with the loader, and makes for a cleaner install overall. But, yours is fine and very functional, just be careful of those hoses for the 3rd function that they dont get snagged.
OP
mangus580
Gold Member
There wasnt a good place to mount the valve on the loader arm, without breaking into the steel lines...
The hoses by the valve are quite protected. Its up near the grapple I need to figure out what to do with yet.
Kioti Tom
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2012
- Messages
- 483
- Tractor
- Kioti DS4510, Ford '48 8N, Ford '53 Jubilee, Power King 1614
Ah Ha!!!, Portable work bench, did not think of that. Now I will. Thanks
Tom
PS: the reason Markham sold out it was the estate. Markham died and the kids
had no interest in the business. Read that on another thread on TBN
kennyd
Advertiser
That was Millonzi, not the Markham's.
Kioti Tom
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2012
- Messages
- 483
- Tractor
- Kioti DS4510, Ford '48 8N, Ford '53 Jubilee, Power King 1614
Sorry, that old brain problem I have since I retired (CRS) disease must of
popped up...
Tom
boomer632
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2011
- Messages
- 205
- Location
- Steeler Country
- Tractor
- 2011 LS R4041EZ - 2014 Bad Boy CZT Elite - 1948 Ford 8N
I see you have the bolt on hooks installed.. how did you go about bolting them on with the double wall bucket? Did you use spacers between the walls or just drill through both walls?
thanks in advance..
OP
mangus580
Gold Member
See Post #6 in this thread.... where I answered you the first time.... LOL :laughing:
boomer632
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2011
- Messages
- 205
- Location
- Steeler Country
- Tractor
- 2011 LS R4041EZ - 2014 Bad Boy CZT Elite - 1948 Ford 8N
OP
mangus580
Gold Member
Doesnt it though?
Anyway - thats where it is. If you want any more detailed pics, I can get them.
Now I need to weld up some hooks on my grapple, and forks. I bought 6 weld on hooks to use as well. 2 are planned to get welded to a plate and bolted to the front frame either side (there is 4 holes there) for tying the front of the tractor down.
Then I guess 2 end up on the grapple, and 2 on the forks.
OP
mangus580
Gold Member
Its been a while since I added anything here... and honestly, i don think i have done any upgrades really anyway.
But, last week, I needed to replace my rear work light. I had put the ROPS up one day over the summer to pour fuel in, and I didnt pin it up; and forgot. Knocked it down, and the plate holding the Orange light smashed out the rear work light. It seems when it comes down at a high rate of speed, there was a clearance issue!
Anyway, I had bought a box of 10 LED lights to use, just hadnt got around to putting any on yet.
Because the rear light had a built in switch, I had to fab something up for the new light. A simple plastic project box, toggle switch, and waterproof toggle switch cover were all I used. I used some self tapping sheet metal screws to attach the box to the back. They snugged up nicely between the heat sink fins.
As you all probably know by now, the light output on this light is amazing compared to stock!
I now have a plan for installing more to the ROPS, so stay tuned!
BTW, link for the project box used:
Hammond 1591LSBK ABS Project Box Black: Electrical Boxes: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
But, last week, I needed to replace my rear work light. I had put the ROPS up one day over the summer to pour fuel in, and I didnt pin it up; and forgot. Knocked it down, and the plate holding the Orange light smashed out the rear work light. It seems when it comes down at a high rate of speed, there was a clearance issue!
Anyway, I had bought a box of 10 LED lights to use, just hadnt got around to putting any on yet.
Because the rear light had a built in switch, I had to fab something up for the new light. A simple plastic project box, toggle switch, and waterproof toggle switch cover were all I used. I used some self tapping sheet metal screws to attach the box to the back. They snugged up nicely between the heat sink fins.
As you all probably know by now, the light output on this light is amazing compared to stock!
I now have a plan for installing more to the ROPS, so stay tuned!
BTW, link for the project box used:
Hammond 1591LSBK ABS Project Box Black: Electrical Boxes: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
OP
mangus580
Gold Member
I should mention that yeah, I know the wiring isnt tidy and neat.... but it was about 1°F outside when I mounted it!! I will clean it up when Elsa releases her curse....
