My New project.............

[Frankdozer]

This is my new project

 

[Thomas]

Looks the dozer going to have new home..wheres the snow???

 

[BuzzardA91]

How many sides gonna close it?

 

[Frankdozer]

My plan is to totally close it in with board and batten and swinging barn doors. I'm putting a metal roof on it. All the wood except for the 4 x 4 pressure treated supports and the 2 x 10 beam is saw mill rough cut full size hemlock.The pt 4 x 4s go 5' into the ground where I then hit solid undigable ground. Hemlock rough cut is inexpensive in my area. I'll pour a concrete floor in the spring after mud season. A wood ramp in front, a few fixed windows here and there and maybe electricity down the road. The temperature this week was 15 below so not much got done. This coming week has freezing rain so I think I might be on hold for a while. As for the roof, I still need to frame with rough full size 1 x 4 opposite way of the rafters for the metal roofing. Any thing I missed? Frank

 

[Gary Fowler]

One thing missed is the sizing. If you think that is large enough for now, then it needs to be doubled and it may last 5 years before it becomes too small otherwise by the time you finish it, you will be looking at needing more space.
For me, I would have extended the rafters to centerline of the SeaCan and prepped the ends for adding a wing to the other side as you will surely need the space soon enough. This would also allow for storage of material on top of the SeaCan. No one ever has enough shed space. Cost would be minimal for the extra length. I like extra large eaves on my building of 16" rather than the standard 6-12 or less that most folks use. It seems to help in keeping more rain off the siding and gets the run off at the roof end further from the foundation.

 

[Frankdozer]

This is strictly just to get the dozer out of the elements. The foot print is 10' wide x 20' long. The container is 8' tall and the dozer is 8'6" tall thus the extra height. Actually my first design had the peak in the center of the container so as I could in the future match the left side. Then as the design progressed, to break up the roof line, I decided that in the center I would make a center shaft 4' wide by 6' tall by 20' long with it's own peaked roof, hay door in the front, beam extending out the front with a wel wheel and a cupalo. Enough of an area to store garden implements, chainsaws, oils, misc. building materials, etc. It would almost look like a syrup melting house ( sugar shack ) where as they use the center tall area to let out the steam. I also like the extended eaves. They protect the sides from the weather. The future left side would be for the snowmobiles and ATVs. Frank

 

[EddieWalker]

Looks like a fun project.

Are you going to add diagonal bracing to the outside posts, towards the container so it locks that wall into position?

Eddie

 

[Frankdozer]

The diagonal braces are there.............The structure is solid as a rock. Plus I leveled it with a laser. Frank

 

[Frankdozer]

Should I use ( all rough cut ) 1x4s or 2x4s perpendicular on top of the 2x6 roof rafters to fasten the metal roof panels to? Frank

 

[Don87]

I prefer 2x4's Makes everything stronger.

 

[dave1949]

Do you worry about the container heaving with frost, and maybe the poles wouldn't?

 

[Gary Fowler]

I would use 2x4 rather than 1x4. They don't sag as much and give more wood for the sheet metal screws to hold on to. Speaking of this, I will pose a question to the forum. For years we have always fastened sheet metal roofing from the top of a ridge for better leak control but now the metal buildings are fastened to the bottom of the ridges. Any opinions on the best way to fasten. I can see that fastening in the bottom it can stop any flexing of the metal and get a tighter connection and with the rubber washers on the screws it isn't going to leak, at least as long as the rubber holds out.

 

[Frankdozer]

Do you worry about the container heaving with frost, and maybe the poles wouldn't?

I thought the same thing. Everything is frozen here in Bridgton, Maine. The other day I checked all the level points with my laser and all was right on. I'm not concerned about the poles. They are 5' plus deep. As far as the container, if needed, I can make adjustments with a building jack and PT plywood shims. The bad about being level is water collects on top of the container and doesn't all drain off. Frank

 

[chopped]

From what others have said. and what you mentioned about the water setting on top of the container I would think it would be easy to have more roof on the other side to the edge.Seems like a minimal cost and the benefits would be great.And add protection to the container itself.

 

[dave1949]

I thought the same thing. Everything is frozen here in Bridgton, Maine. The other day I checked all the level points with my laser and all was right on. I'm not concerned about the poles. They are 5' plus deep. As far as the container, if needed, I can make adjustments with a building jack and PT plywood shims. The bad about being level is water collects on top of the container and doesn't all drain off. Frank

That's good. I would keep an eye on it this spring, just in case the container is up higher now than it will be after the thaw. Heaving is so unpredictable, except at every danged culvert crossing under the road :laughing:

 

[ovrszd]

I would use 2x4 rather than 1x4. They don't sag as much and give more wood for the sheet metal screws to hold on to. Speaking of this, I will pose a question to the forum. For years we have always fastened sheet metal roofing from the top of a ridge for better leak control but now the metal buildings are fastened to the bottom of the ridges. Any opinions on the best way to fasten. I can see that fastening in the bottom it can stop any flexing of the metal and get a tighter connection and with the rubber washers on the screws it isn't going to leak, at least as long as the rubber holds out.

My Son has two metal clad pole barns. One day I was at his place drinkin a beer with him. It was mid summer and one of those days when the sky is full of puffy clouds with a stiff breeze. The Sun was in and out of the clouds every few minutes. We were standing in one of his buildings and he said do ya hear that? I listened and as the Sun came and went you could hear the roof tin popping. He said come over here in my other building. We went inside the other building and stood a minute or two listening. No tin sound. Quiet as a mouse. I stepped outside and looked at the two roofs. The one making all the noise was fastened on top of the ridges. The quiet one was fastened in the valleys. Neither roof leaks. From that experience I would say fasten in the valleys and the roof will stay tight and leakproof longer.

Sorry for the hi-jack. I'm interested to see your project progress!!!

 

[stowester]

I've seen the nails pull out of 1x4 over time but now that metal roofs are screwed down I think 1x4 rough are enough and that is what I used on my shed (rafters 24", straps 16").

 

[Frankdozer]

Here is a picture of the Project as of today January 29, 2013. I have done nothing for the past month. The temperature last week was 15 below and with the snow last night and the rain tomorrow, maybe I can continue on it next week. Frank

 

[TWD]

I plan to do something similar except due to snow and water on the container my plan is to use steel brackets to get the wood off the container top.

 

[STROIL]

Hey Frank:

Like you, I have a couple containers (seacans) on my property for storing my "stuff". However, I noticed on your last picture that you have some type of "lock covers" that I have not seen before. They are obviously there to limit access to the locks by any cutting equipment. Any chance you could reply with a link to where you got those lock covers? And out of curiosity, what type of lock do you use? What I mean is... did you invest in super-premium locks or just your average (but still secure) Master locks or something like that.

Thanks in advance for the reply. Your carpentry work looks very nice.