My new Grand L6060- final configuration. What would you change?

plowhog · Oct 30, 2016

Thank you to all who replied to my inquires about a L6060 for mowing 20 acres and cleaning downed logs from 8 acres. I am focusing on the configuration listed below. There is already a bushhog at the property. What changes would you make to the configuration I am focusing on?

Kubota L6060, cab model, R1 industrial tires, Air ride seat, Side and rear defroster, rear wiper
LA1055 loader w/72" HD roundback bucket, Three welded on bucket hooks
3 valves in front (to support grapple), 72" claw grapple w/L series 3rd valve (have not decided on which grapple?)
3 rear remotes, two float, one detent, Aftermarket protection for 3rd rear hydraulic hose, Top n tilt
Land Pride RBT 3596 8 foot rear blade w/hydraulic angle control, Retractable parking stand for blade
Wallenstein FX85 skidding winch

I will add radio and aftermarket LED lights myself. But, after paying for this tractor I might be down to using a hand held transistor radio!!!

Please comment with any suggestions-- this is a major purchase and I'm still new to tractors!

murphy1244 · Oct 30, 2016

Can you get any skid plates for under the machine? Going to be one nice Tractor.

Fallon · Oct 31, 2016

Generally a good looking setup pretty similar to the L4060 HSTC i'm planning on getting to replace my L3200 here soon. Except, you said R1 industrial which is wrong... R1is ag, R4 is industrial. Personally I prefer the extra durability & lesser lawn damage of R4 industrials over R1s. R1 do have better traction, especially in mud, so they are very valid & better for some applications, just not mine. I have lesser HP & weight needs as well as more transportability concerns, not to mention financal restrictions pushing me to a slightly smaller machine. I'm getting a HST, you probably want to specify transmission type. HST has a 15% HP penalty, but is easier to use, faster for loader work & generally more flexible. Gear is fine for field work & has supperior power transmission. A GST is more expensive & will shift all over without clutching, bringing it closer to a HST for usability. A fully synchronised transmission is cheaper, but requires clutching every shift & works just like a car manual tranny.

I'd put the bucket hooks on myself, they are easy I bolted my current ones on, but welding isnt much harder if you can weld. I actually might skip them on my next machie... I just grab pallet forks for pretty much any lifting or chaining these days & they have plenty of bar stock on the frame to hook on. I'll toss in a radio & roof mounted LED light bars myself too. The rest of your cab setup will be what i'm getting soon too.

What do you mean 3 valves in front? Most people just say 3rd function indicating an extra valve for a grapple or whatever, the first 2 come with any loader & you don't really specify them.

Your rear setup with TnT, 2 float & 1 detent is exactly what I have now & will get on my new machine. I'd suggest strongly adding a Quick Hitch to that. $150 for a Speeco or Harbor Freight one. They are cheap, but sturdy enough to work properly. A LandPride QH is better quality but $350-400 or so. You can hitch up to an impliment without getting off the tractor even if its pretty crooked with TnT & a QH. Any LandPride impliment should support a QH, duno on the winch.

My LP back blade had a kick stand, expect yours will too, so specifying one is probably redundant.

TripleR · Oct 31, 2016

Sounds pretty complete to me as to hoe the tractor itself is configured, you may need more implements in the future, but maybe not.

I found four extra wheel weights in addition to my loaded tires really helped in my hills and with traction, but they are expensive and can be added later if needed.

Turbys_1700 · Oct 31, 2016

Get the rears loaded...
I read through everything and didn't see it mentioned...
You will need the weight...
That may be a given dealer option...

adventure bob · Oct 31, 2016

You mentioned 3 valves to the fornt? Didn't know that was an option. I have a 3rd function for mine. Not sure what Id do with two more...

TripleR · Oct 31, 2016

Turbys_1700 said:
Get the rears loaded...
I read through everything and didn't see it mentioned...
You will need the weight...
That may be a given dealer option...

It was addressed here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ying-grand-l6060-what-options.html?highlight=

plowhog · Oct 31, 2016

Thanks for the help. I had the Ag tired spec'd, filled with windshield washer fluid, but somehow it got deleted. I won't be driving on any lawn.

I can drill the bucket and install Ken's bolt on hooks. I did that with my Massey.

I will spec the 3rd function with electric diverter for the front, but I need to learn more about what that is.

Finally, I should spec which grapple to include. I saw the "Everything Attachments" wicked grapple, which looks impressive. But they also have lots of models, and I'm not sure which would be best. I know Land Pride and others also offer grapples. Any grapple owners want to comment about the pros and cons of their grapple? I'm presuming I want a "root grapple" for the log work?

adventure bob · Nov 3, 2016

I'm running the EA wicked on my 6060. I love it. I abuse the crap out of the grapple and have yet to have issues whatsoever. I think I use the grapple more than I use the bucket.

Fallon · Nov 3, 2016

Every post about grapples has people either saying they wish they had a narrower grapple or glad they got one. It might be the only time here on TBN people will encourage you to go smaller & especially smaller than you think you want.

Generally a skinny grapple can grab 99% of the stuff a wider one can & is more maneuverable & can fit in smaller places.