My Horse Barn in Progress

[jcaron2]

Looks really good. What are you going to use above the T&G on the stall fronts? Prefab fronts?

I haven't decided for sure yet (meaning that my wife hasn't actually decided for sure yet ), but I'm leaning toward the same approach that SteelDust used for his horse barn (See some pics on this page: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/110718-want-see-yet-another-pole-17.html). He used 3/4" metal conduit for the bars. Much cheaper than prefab stall fronts or black iron pipe.

 

[jcaron2]

Nice looking barn.

How are the stall front boards attached to the posts? I'd be worried a horse could kick the stall front and the boards might come loose. Or does the toungue and groove of the boards keep everything locked in place?

Thanks. The boards all lock together, so a horse would have to kick several of them out in one shot. They're screwed into the posts with 2.5" deck screws. Hopefully that'll be enough to keep 'em in.

 

[Gizmo2]

I haven't decided for sure yet (meaning that my wife hasn't actually decided for sure yet ), but I'm leaning toward the same approach that SteelDust used for his horse barn (See some pics on this page: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/110718-want-see-yet-another-pole-17.html). He used 3/4" metal conduit for the bars. Much cheaper than prefab stall fronts or black iron pipe.

Yeah I know my barn does not look as good as a new one but it did 20 some years ago when I built it. I have to tell you the EMT conduit works well and has served me with many years of maintenance free use. As you can see I can remove mine at will although I have never needed to replace any, the removal of the bars is handy.

 

[Gizmo2]

Thanks. The boards all lock together, so a horse would have to kick several of them out in one shot. They're screwed into the posts with 2.5" deck screws. Hopefully that'll be enough to keep 'em in.

Nope, sorry to say but a horse, especially a sick one will kick those front boards right off. You may as well add 2x6 T&G on the inside now. A horse with a stuck foot is not pretty.

 

[jcaron2]

Nope, sorry to say but a horse, especially a sick one will kick those front boards right off. You may as well add 2x6 T&G on the inside now. A house with a stuck foot is not pretty.

So what is it that actually fails when they kick a board out? Do the screws snap, or pull out of the posts? And how about the tongues and grooves on the adjacent boards? Do they break too?

The reason I ask is that the partition walls between the stalls are kind of similar. I rip a 2x4 in half and screw a length to each post like a nailer. Then I screw the ends of the T&G boards into them. At the very least, it sounds like I need to add another half 2x4 to the posts to sandwich the ends in place. Plus, that'll cover up the screw heads and look nicer.

Back on the subject of the stall fronts, do you think it would be enough to add a sheet of 3/4" plywood to the back side of the boards? It wouldn't show from the front, and it would help to spread the force of the kick somewhat.

I'm glad to know the EMT works well after all this time. Your barn still looks great after 20 years. Thanks, Gizmo!

 

[jcaron2]

Yeah I know my barn does not look as good as a new one but it did 20 some years ago when I built it. I have to tell you the EMT conduit works well and has served me with many years of maintenance free use. As you can see I can remove mine at will although I have never needed to replace any, the removal of the bars is handy.

On more thing, Gizmo: If you're using 3/4" conduit, then it looks from the picture like you have it spaced at 3" on center. Is that right? I was thinking of going at 3.5", but yours look just about right. Are you happy with that spacing?

 

[Gizmo2]

So what is it that actually fails when they kick a board out? Do the screws snap, or pull out of the posts? And how about the tongues and grooves on the adjacent boards? Do they break too?

Yes

The reason I ask is that the partition walls between the stalls are kind of similar. I rip a 2x4 in half and screw a length to each post like a nailer. Then I screw the ends of the T&G boards into them. At the very least, it sounds like I need to add another half 2x4 to the posts to sandwich the ends in place. Plus, that'll cover up the screw heads and look nicer.

Perfect! That and the T&G should work out nice, how big are your stalls? This is what I did but did not nail or screw the T&G to either side of the sandwich. This made the T&G removable when foaling time came as I would open up two stalls for the mother to be. It worked out well. I used PT T&G between the stalls as I figured it was stronger. A mother to be horse can get really rambunctious in a stall. The first time I witnessed a colic horse I thought the stall was going to be totally destroyed.

Back on the subject of the stall fronts, do you think it would be enough to add a sheet of 3/4" plywood to the back side of the boards? It wouldn't show from the front, and it would help to spread the force of the kick somewhat.

Good idea, I have 2x6's on the outside and on the inside with the 6x6 post that left 5 1/2" between them. Keep in mind to make a stall and horse barn both pretty and functional cost some big money, horses are very powerful animals I have seen one of our smaller Arabians break a new 3/16 chain like it was nothing. Never had one kick the center partition out but they did break the T&G lip on a few boards a few times.

I'm glad to know the EMT works well after all this time. Your barn still looks great after 20 years. Thanks, Gizmo!

Thanks so much.
What have you consider doing for cribbing and chewing protection?

 

[Gizmo2]

On more thing, Gizmo: If you're using 3/4" conduit, then it looks from the picture like you have it spaced at 3" on center. Is that right? I was thinking of going at 3.5", but yours look just about right. Are you happy with that spacing?

I do not know off hand what the spacing is but I will check and let you know. But...Spacing has a lot to do with the size of your horse's hooves. By that I mean, a horse with their foot caught between the bars is also not a pretty happening (thus my removable bars). The thought that, no way a foot can go between the bars is a bad thought, the bars will give to some degree, then try and get the foot out. I do know the bar spacing between the stalls I had to make pretty small as it was ok originally for the full grown horses but with the foals it was a completely different ball game. The stall dividers seem to be more critical as the horses are always trying to get to one another. If I had it to do over again I would do as you did, solid partitions. Yeah I know I can shut up now. I'm always learning and I am enjoying you barn project, looks sooooo nice.

 

[Gizmo2]

One more thought, sorry. A rule of thumb, the smother the interior stall walls are the better. This makes for less available chewing area and less protruding points for the horse to get hurt on. An excited horse will do anything with no regards to self inflicted damage to itself.

 

[weldingisfun]

One more thought, sorry. A rule of thumb, the smother the interior stall walls are the better. This makes for less available chewing area and less protruding points for the horse to get hurt on. An excited horse will do anything with no regards to self inflicted damage to itself.

Geez, and to think I thought goats were dumb. From the behaviors you have described here and on other posts about horses, in comparison, goats are pretty darned smart.