OP
markpaul2929
New member
Also another question.....did you guys reuse the copper washers for the hydraulic lines that had to be disconnected?
Ok i will give it a try tomorrow and see what happens.
Also i think i was able to save a lot of time for splitting it by not removing a lot of the wiring/hydraulic hoses (many guys here disconnected a lot of the stuff but i dont know if there tractor allowed them to do what i did) . I dont know if this helps anybody in the future who are going to split the tractor. But i did not disconnect the dashboard and steering wheel or most of the hydraulics or the fuel tank. i just unbolted the dashboard frame bolts and as i was splitting the tractor, i had one person lifting up the whole dashboard steering assembly so it will clear and split.
The biggest issue IMHO in splitting a tractor is securing the rear and the front housing. Most tractor shops that do this type of work has jigs and fixtures made for this. It makes it a whole lot easier than maneuvering jacks and stands. I would like to know if anyone out their has fabbed up a crib for those housings. It would be interesting to me anyway.
I did it the other way, a bottle jack on the front bell housing with wedges jammed on top of the front axle to keep it level. Floor jack under the back half of the tractor, one guy on each rear tire and roll it forward. Not sure which way is easier, we did it that way mostly due to space (or lack of) in my garage.I didn’t find it to be that big of a problem. I had a 30 ton bottle jack sitting on a 6x6 on the back and a floor jack on the front. Leave the wheels on and drive wedges in the axel pivot stops.
1600 hours. if you are handy it takes a couple of hours. Don't take it to the dealer.
Is this repair near the clutch and if so are or is it a good idea to change clutch and pressure plate while apart? Seams like I read about this oil leak failure mostly on kabotas.