MX4700 tractor split need help removing seal

[markpaul2929]

Hey guys I had oil leaking severely from the split pin plug. Called the dealers and he said its most likely the 4wd seal and the tractor needed to be split. They wanted too much so i decided to do it myself. It was my first split. It was pretty straightforward had to disconnect few hydraulic lines and electrical connections. kept the steering, dashboard panel and all the main wiring and hydraulics connected and just onbolted the main dashboard bolts and pulled it off with the engine. all in all a couple of hours. Now the issue is how do i remove that 4wd seal?

Also is the main transmission seal (inside the aluminum housing) leaking and what is the process with it for replacing it? Reall only found oil on 4wd shaft

see attached photos

 

[markpaul2929]

Also how can i tell if the clutch did not get oil on it? Do i have to remove clutch cover? And if i do how do i align the transmission spindle?

 

[texasranger556]

Not sure on your tractor but on a L48 which is probably similar, it was a bit of a pain getting that shaft out. I had it split behind where you did also at the clutch housing. Ended up hammering out the shaft with that section of housing on the floor held up on blocks of wood. You might luck out and be able to remove the shaft just by pulling on it or getting creative with a slide hammer. Pay attention to the parts diagram if there are any spacers that might fall off behind that seal.

 

[Adiredneck]

Hey guys I had oil leaking severely from the split pin plug. Called the dealers and he said its most likely the 4wd seal and the tractor needed to be split. They wanted too much so i decided to do it myself. It was my first split. It was pretty straightforward had to disconnect few hydraulic lines and electrical connections. kept the steering, dashboard panel and all the main wiring and hydraulics connected and just onbolted the main dashboard bolts and pulled it off with the engine. all in all a couple of hours. Now the issue is how do i remove that 4wd seal? Also is the main transmission seal (inside the aluminum housing) leaking and what is the process with it for replacing it? Reall only found oil on 4wd shaft see attached photos <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=537572"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=537573"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=537574"/>

On my L5240, I took two regular screwdrivers and heated the tips with a torch. Once they were red hot, I bent the last 1/8" over at a 90 degree angle. Once I pierced the seal, I used the hooked end to pull out the seal.

A word of warning. Get some help. I have heard that if the shaft is removed, whether on purpose, or by accident, it can be a bear to get back in place. I had my father apply constant pressure to it so that it did not come forward.

Also, we jacked up the front of the housing quite a bit. This kept the fluid that escaped to a minimum. We lost maybe a 1/2 gallon in all.

Do yourself a favor and replace the input shaft seal also while you have everything apart.

 

[markpaul2929]

Thank you sir for the help. The input seal, is it in the aluminum housing where the throw out bearing is? Also does the housing have a gasket that needs to be replaced when opened? Again thank you for the help.

 

[Oldpath05]

How many hours on these tractors when this seal goes? sounds like I'll have the same problem sometime now that mine just 1000 hrs.

 

[markpaul2929]

How many hours on these tractors when this seal goes? sounds like I'll have the same problem sometime now that mine just 1000 hrs.

1600 hours. if you are handy it takes a couple of hours. Don't take it to the dealer.

 

[MHarryE]

My L5740 was 860 hours when it failed.

 

[4570Man]

Mine had around 850 hours. If you can pull it off in a couple hours on your first attempt then my hat is off to you. It’s probably easier on a bare bones tractor because there’s probably less stuff to take off, but it’s still a pretty decent job. I figure it can be done in a weekend. I carefully hammered a screw driver in the center of the seal. Once it was bent it was easy to get a screw driver on the outside and pry it out.

 

[markpaul2929]

Mine had around 850 hours. If you can pull it off in a couple hours on your first attempt then my hat is off to you. It’s probably easier on a bare bones tractor because there’s probably less stuff to take off, but it’s still a pretty decent job. I figure it can be done in a weekend. I carefully hammered a screw driver in the center of the seal. Once it was bent it was easy to get a screw driver on the outside and pry it out.

How did you remove the sleeve? (Item number 050) see attached diagram

 

[markpaul2929]

Also another question.....did you guys reuse the copper washers for the hydraulic lines that had to be disconnected?

 

[4570Man]

I don’t remember. I think everything was loose except the seals and snap ring.

 

[markpaul2929]

Ok i will give it a try tomorrow and see what happens.

Also i think i was able to save a lot of time for splitting it by not removing a lot of the wiring/hydraulic hoses (many guys here disconnected a lot of the stuff but i dont know if there tractor allowed them to do what i did) . I dont know if this helps anybody in the future who are going to split the tractor. But i did not disconnect the dashboard and steering wheel or most of the hydraulics or the fuel tank. i just unbolted the dashboard frame bolts and as i was splitting the tractor, i had one person lifting up the whole dashboard steering assembly so it will clear and split.

 

[Turbys_1700]

The biggest issue IMHO in splitting a tractor is securing the rear and the front housing. Most tractor shops that do this type of work has jigs and fixtures made for this. It makes it a whole lot easier than maneuvering jacks and stands. I would like to know if anyone out their has fabbed up a crib for those housings. It would be interesting to me anyway.

 

[motownbrowne]

Ok i will give it a try tomorrow and see what happens.

Also i think i was able to save a lot of time for splitting it by not removing a lot of the wiring/hydraulic hoses (many guys here disconnected a lot of the stuff but i dont know if there tractor allowed them to do what i did) . I dont know if this helps anybody in the future who are going to split the tractor. But i did not disconnect the dashboard and steering wheel or most of the hydraulics or the fuel tank. i just unbolted the dashboard frame bolts and as i was splitting the tractor, i had one person lifting up the whole dashboard steering assembly so it will clear and split.

As an MX owner, I very much appreciate you doing that out. Thanks a bunch!

 

[4570Man]

The biggest issue IMHO in splitting a tractor is securing the rear and the front housing. Most tractor shops that do this type of work has jigs and fixtures made for this. It makes it a whole lot easier than maneuvering jacks and stands. I would like to know if anyone out their has fabbed up a crib for those housings. It would be interesting to me anyway.

I didn’t find it to be that big of a problem. I had a 30 ton bottle jack sitting on a 6x6 on the back and a floor jack on the front. Leave the wheels on and drive wedges in the axel pivot stops.

 

[texasranger556]

I didn’t find it to be that big of a problem. I had a 30 ton bottle jack sitting on a 6x6 on the back and a floor jack on the front. Leave the wheels on and drive wedges in the axel pivot stops.

I did it the other way, a bottle jack on the front bell housing with wedges jammed on top of the front axle to keep it level. Floor jack under the back half of the tractor, one guy on each rear tire and roll it forward. Not sure which way is easier, we did it that way mostly due to space (or lack of) in my garage.

If you split tractors more than once or twice a year then I could see the jigs being worthwhile, but they certainly aren't necessary.

 

[Oldpath05]

1600 hours. if you are handy it takes a couple of hours. Don't take it to the dealer.

Is this repair near the clutch and if so are or is it a good idea to change clutch and pressure plate while apart? Seams like I read about this oil leak failure mostly on kabotas.

 

[markpaul2929]

Is this repair near the clutch and if so are or is it a good idea to change clutch and pressure plate while apart? Seams like I read about this oil leak failure mostly on kabotas.

I have the hst model and only use the clutch for starting it or putting/taking it out of the 4wd (so realy dont have much wear on it). If you had a gear tractor and had a lot of hours on it, it will be better to change it when apart rather than do it later and if your input shaft leaked it would have most likely ruined the clutch. So you will be better off replacing it. however if your propeller shaft leaked than most likely the clutch didnt get wet.

 

[4570Man]

I was surprised to see an actual clutch in my Kubota. It wouldn’t roll down a hill with the clutch held down. I’m really not sure what purpose it serves on the GrandL series. It’s needed to engage the PTO on economy series.