MTD Split-it log splitter

[Jim Blackwood]

OK thanks. Maybe tomorrow. I'll get it in the vise and put some serious light on it.

Jim

 

[Jim Blackwood]

I have the cylinder in the big bench vise and can see what I have to work with. Am I right in thinking this wire is a square snap ring? It looks like it's rotated away from the slot and it does not rotate with the gland nut. Looks like it has a series of very small punch marks. I think I'll use a punch to rotate it until the ends appear, then maybe I can drill a small hole in each end and use those with snap ring pliers to squeeze in the snap ring enough to clear the locking slot. Is that the only thing other than an o-ring that holds the end in?

Jim

 

[wdchyd]

The original ring was bent in at a 90, enough for about 1/4” to go in the gland. If the bent piece wasn’t broke it would’ve followed the gland around when turning. The intent was for the square ring to rotate and come out of the slot in barrel.
Find the end and pry it out enough to grab it with vise grips, then with a helper smack the vise grips (to pull out) and rotate at the same time. All of the wire needs to come out for the cyl to come apart.

 

[Jim Blackwood]

All I can say is that's one he!! of a way to make a cylinder. I had a seal for the piston. McMasterCarr may have one for the shaft. I'm guessing that wire has to come from MTD. This one isn't long enough to go all the way around. I'll be test fitting it before it goes back together.

Jim

 

[wdchyd]

Was the wire .125” square? Or .093”. Or round?

 

[Jim Blackwood]

It looked like .125" and I'm sure that's what it is but I'll measure it in a bit. The wire is square.

I'm ready to go back out and get the measurements on the rod seal, dust wiper, and gland nut o-ring so I can get those on order. McMC generally takes only a day to deliver.I'll see if I can find any square wire on their site.

I deburred the locking groove and the piston seal should slide past it but I'm a little worried about slicing the o-ring. Maybe I could pack the groove with grease or wax to help with that.

Jim

 

[Jim Blackwood]

Definitely a 1/8" square lock wire. Do you have any of these lying around perhaps? I also can't get the rod wiper (seal). McM has something that should work for the rod seal, though it is .050" narrower than the groove, and they have a good looking double bulge o-ring type head seal that should work for the gland nut. I already have their 4" piston seal fitted as I had one on hand and it looks like an exact replacement.

I haven't ordered the parts yet and if there is a seal kit available I would consider it, especially if it included the lock wire. I might even be persuaded to spring for a new gland nut as this one has been slightly damaged by a prior owner with a big hammer and chisel(function is not impaired). Depends on what it cost.

Jim

 

[wdchyd]

I have those seals and lock wires if you have any trouble finding them.
The lock wire material I buy in 6’ length.

 

[Jim Blackwood]

PM sent

 

[Jim Blackwood]

Looks like this has all worked out pretty well. I was able to straighten and re-use the locking wire (bent a new hook on the end) and the 3 new seals came from McMaster Carr. Reused the old dust wiper. Putting it back together was a lot easier than taking it apart. One trick, I used a ring compressor to squish the piston seal into the groove overnight and it stayed that way long enough to assemble. The lock wire went in smooth and easy after deburring everything. Added a gallon of ATF and the running test was good, haven't split anything yet but have no reason to doubt that will work just fine.

I added a line level clamped to the bracket behind the cylinder. Considering a leveling jack and a large muffler.

My thanks to Bill for good advice.

Jim