Mower operation

[big bubba]

`would having a hyd top link help in this set up? so that it could be adjusted on the fly?

 

[scootr]

`would having a hyd top link help in this set up? so that it could be adjusted on the fly?

In my experience a top link cylinder is a must have for any tractor. It allows you to change the angle of engagement at any time while mowing, raking, scraping... anything you do with the rear attachments.
It makes a tractor so much more versatile - actually usable.

 

[big bubba]

was thinking the same. certainly true in my own case, but not familiar with this type cutter. feel the HTL also reduces safety risk dismounting every time an adj is needed. i'll never go back... regards

 

[Lineman North Florida]

After scalping a spot a time or two with a rotary cutter you'll usually have it leveled off enough to not scalp it the next time you mow. Seriously though I have never had a problem with a 3 point mower as long as I left some slack in the third link to allow for contour changes.

 

[geargle]

Does your tractor have draft control? One can put enough lift pressure to keep top link tight but not enough to lift the implement, a must with rotary cutters to prevent the scalping, etc.

 

[japody]

This is what I was referring to, I no longer have one but my neighbor does. Good if what you are cutting is thick, if you are looking to have it down like a lawn then a finish mower will follow the ground contours if it has casters on all four corners like the Landpride 2572 I sold to another neighbor before I realized the Mott SHD72 was NOT going to give the cut I thought it would.

View attachment 860106

That's a Sidewinder mower. Great mower.

 

[I Piddle]

Greetings everyone

Long time tractor owner with a question that has bugged me for a long time on and I‘ve never found a good answer or a resolution.

I have two mowers for my tractor. I have a 6’ rotary cutter and a 6’ articulating flail mower with hammers.

When I setup either one of these mowers, I do so on a level concrete pad, set the height, put a stop on the 3 point lever control and set up the top pin on the hitch. What I find very frustrating mowing with either one of these setups in this rugged hilly country is that I am constantly working the 3pt height to keep the implement from digging in or riding too high and keeping a fairly consistent cut height. Always feels like I need a third hand to operate this and it forces me to mow at a snails pace. On flat ground, its not a problem, but I have hardly anything flat.

What am I missing or is just the nature of mowing with a 3pt hitch attachment?

That is an interesting setup you have. What type of fail mower are you using and how many GPM is required? I would like to have something like that to use on grown up fence rows. Additionally, I don't like to run the tractor over the 6-foot-high brush ground that have no idea what I am running over.

 

[FDMTech]

Those are rough cutting implements. If you want to cut at a consistent height, you need a finish mower.

 

[swreeder]

Does your tractor have draft control? One can put enough lift pressure to keep top link tight but not enough to lift the implement, a must with rotary cutters to prevent the scalping, etc.

I have draft control, but my understand of draft control it is for ground engaging equipment to keep them from digging in too deep. I‘m curious to learn more here, but everything I read on this site indicates draft control is for plows and equipment that wants to basically bury itself in the ground.

Any tips for how to set this up and how it would work with a rotary cutter?

 

[LouNY]

I have draft control, but my understand of draft control it is for ground engaging equipment to keep them from digging in too deep. I‘m curious to learn more here, but everything I read on this site indicates draft control is for plows and equipment that wants to basically bury itself in the ground.

Any tips for how to set this up and how it would work with a rotary cutter?

Interesting idea,
I suppose if your tractors draft control was setup to use lower link sensing it could possibly be set sensitive enough to maintain a constant pull amount. Raising the lift arms as pull increased and lowering as it decreased. Of course I don't see how it could differentiate between increased drag from more material hitting the front of the mower deck and the side skids digging into the dirt a bit more.
With the older and also more common setup on smaller tractors being top link sensing, I suppose again if sensitive enough to feel the weight on the tail wheel it could try and raise or lower the lift arms to keep the tail wheel weight constant, of course if the tail wheel encounters a dip and hangs in the air the mower would drop to get it back on the ground and then when it got heavier it could try to compensate by lifting the lift arms.