Mostly scrap built (but still awesome) land plane

[jwmorris]

Just weld a brace towards the bottom of the vertical tubes of the mount you have, that ties into the bottom of the jack (will look like a diagonal brace for the rear corners) That is the quickest way I can see to fix it.

 

[Xfaxman]

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Married the jacks to the casters

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I either have to weld the "socket" into the jack, or somehow tighten up the pin... maybe drill and go to the next size up with tighter clearances.

How about a collar or U bolt clamp to a brace where I added the arrows?


Looks like jwmorris Posted while I was waiting for HughsNet satellite internet to to come up after the thunder storm.

 

[NS Gearhead]

I was thinking another 90 from the corner of the plane to the bottom of the jack... but yeah, same idea. I'd use a "U" bolt so that they jacks are still easy to remove/replace.

 

[BukitCase]

One other thing - I've not used those particular jacks, but the ones I have used the bottom will rotate til the pad hits the ground - IOW, you can raise/lower them either with the crank, OR by turning the pad or wheel.

IF yours are that way, you may wanna relocate your wheel fork bolt holes nearer to the front (direction of travel) and make new wheel forks that angle backward, so the wheels will track. (I only mentioned moving the bolt holes, because the pics make it look like just angling the forks could cause the wheels to rub on the rear crossmember)

Otherwise, you may have your wheels raising/lowering on their own and/or trying to run sideways.

If the wheel fork trails the mount, it'll always run true... Steve

 

[ovrszd]

jwmorris, I have something like that running around in my head for a 600lb welding table so it'll sit solid while using but yet be able to be raised onto casters to move around if needed.

Sorry for the hijack.

 

[jwmorris]

jwmorris, I have something like that running around in my head for a 600lb welding table so it'll sit solid while using but yet be able to be raised onto casters to move around if needed.

Sorry for the hijack.

That one weighs at least that much now that it is full, under the bench and now has metal casters. Make sure you thread the bottom for leveling bolts.


Xfaxman illustration has what I had in mind but I would just go straight across and tie into the jack.

You could use a muffler clamp as light weight as that style of jack is built. The jack wil be destroyed before a 3/8" clamp.

 

[NS Gearhead]

One other thing - I've not used those particular jacks, but the ones I have used the bottom will rotate til the pad hits the ground

These have a bit of play, but not much.

 

[NS Gearhead]

One other thing - I've not used those particular jacks, but the ones I have used the bottom will rotate til the pad hits the ground

These have a bit of play, but not much.

 

[NS Gearhead]

Xfaxman illustration has what I had in mind but I would just go straight across and tie into the jack.

You could use a muffler clamp as light weight as that style of jack is built. The jack wil be destroyed before a 3/8" clamp.

I do like the thought of using the brace as gusseting for the plane itself... and I was thinking a muffler clamp too. Wouldn't take much to make it a hole lot stronger. I'll just weld some flat plate to the pipe with holes for the clamp.

 

[M E Race]

Not to in any way trash your design, but. As material flows over your cutting blade it will fall in front of your castor wheel, thus raising blade off road surface. If you need the wheels for transport they need to be in the rear. To try to adjust on the fly for building a crown, your blade would have to be adjustable in motion.

 

[jwmorris]

He only has one blade, so they are at the rear. To crown he would need to angle the "spoils" to one side by putting the blade at an angle and running on one side going down and the opposite side comming back.

At that point wheels or tires (that can go flat) are not needed, just the skids on each side.

Lifting tires would be usefull to travel over ground you didn't want to touch though.

And for the " in motion adjust" he has a "friend" that is going to ride on it and crank the jacks while going over all the bumps, in the dust.

 

[NS Gearhead]

Not to in any way trash your design, but. As material flows over your cutting blade it will fall in front of your castor wheel, thus raising blade off road surface. If you need the wheels for transport they need to be in the rear. To try to adjust on the fly for building a crown, your blade would have to be adjustable in motion.

Tires are set 1" above the skids when they're all the way up. The cutting blade is 3/8" lower then the skids. If I lower one tire 1 3/8" then that side of the blade won't touch the ground and the other will.

May not work to build a crown... we'll see!

 

[GManBart]

I have a deal now where I am getting scrap steel for .15/lb with a decent assortment of sizes and shapes. I pick through the 2 acre pile whenever I can for useful stuff. That makes building a new implement a lot cheaper than it has been in the past.

Wow...I wish! It's running .30/lb here last I knew.

I don't need a land plane (yet) but this makes me want to build one

 

[NS Gearhead]

I payed for one of the channel irons and the angle iron. $45 & $15. The Jacks; $50 and the tongue; $15. Everything else was free; pipe, channel, casters, blade, chair. The 2" square was all left overs I had kicking around... So all in all, $125 ain't bad. I'll be grabbing a link sometime soon... that'll be $40ish.

 

[NS Gearhead]

I also weighed what I've got so far in an attempt to know how much this will weigh once done.

Channel iron; 43Lbs x 2= 86lbs
Pipe; 40lbs x 2=80lbs
Angle iron/ blade/ bolts; 47lbs
Caster & Jack; 19lbs x 2=38lbs

251lbs so far!

Still have sand, tongue, bracing, chair, expanded steel... should reach 300lbs.

Tongue with gussets was 25lbs, so 251+25=276lbs

 

[jenkinsph]

He only has one blade, so they are at the rear. To crown he would need to angle the "spoils" to one side by putting the blade at an angle and running on one side going down and the opposite side comming back.

At that point wheels or tires (that can go flat) are not needed, just the skids on each side.

Lifting tires would be usefull to travel over ground you didn't want to touch though.

And for the " in motion adjust" he has a "friend" that is going to ride on it and crank the jacks while going over all the bumps, in the dust.

We will see how this works out, I suspect the little casters will have a tough go of it off pavement.
I am currently building a set of casters for my box blade and the tires are 20 10 10 slicks, I found it difficult to find ready made casters this size so I am fabricating my own.

 

[zing]

Haven't seen any updates to this for a while, so maybe you have already solved the problem of the extra movement in the casters but if not, could you just weld about an inch of tube to the jack's mounting tube (if you can find the same size pipe) and then add a vertical pin?

 

[NS Gearhead]

I'm just about to start back up on this soon. I do have a solution for the casters, so stay tuned!

 

[kneedeep]

Its been a while, wonder what's up :confused3:

 

[NS Gearhead]

Yeah, got side tracked with getting ready for winter and the dump trailer.... nothing new although I only really have a day left of work to finish it. LOL The thing is the garage is full... we'll see. I'd love to get it done and stored in the shed for the winter.

The funny thing is; I took an extra heavy duty pallet (prob rough cut hard wood 2x4s), threw a 40" TSL (tire) on for weight and drug it around with a cable sling... and it did a great job! Turned up two fist sized rocks... re-distributed the loose stuff. Heck, I did mine and the two neighbors! The bottom boards did get chewed up a bit... but I think I'll bolt on some channel iron side to side... maybe three lengths... finish this one and sell it in the spring. Need cash to fund the next project.