More slope questions

   / More slope questions #1  

bobsjd

New member
Joined
Dec 10, 2009
Messages
14
Hi

I read with some interest the two threads on down slope and and side slope ie rollover issues and meters to tell the angle.

I just purchased a 3720 with a cab in December and enjoyed the nice warm cab blowing snow.

My previous tractor was a 755 4wd that I had for 23 years. we recently moved and I had been mowing some slopes ie ditches in along the road with no real concern about rollover. I would sit on the high side of the seat and go back and forth.

Early this spring I took the 3720 for ride to see how it would do where I had mowed before and the slopes of the ditches seemed much steeper to me but I chalked it up to being a bit higher off the ground and a new tractor I was not familiar with and I could not sit on the high side so to speak in the cab. The 3720 has 5' wide track where the 755 had 4'.

After reading the two threads I went out today with a level that reads in degrees and discovered that a good portion of the slopes were 20- 23 degrees, some places 25 degrees. Based on what I am reading it seems that driving along this slope mowing is not a good idea. I looked at those rollover meters and they seem to imply 15 degrees is the limit and at 20 plus you are pushing your luck.

Am I interpreting this correct? I was just about to hook up a rear rotary mower and have at it. (BTW it has the 300cx FEL on it, no tire liquid, or tire weights)

Thanks for any input

Bob
 
   / More slope questions #3  
Heck, I've mowed 35 degree slopes sideways on my little Craftsman mower. But, I wouldn't touch those with my tractor sideways.

With the little mower, it only weighed maybe 500 lbs, and it sat really low to the ground. Sitting on the side of the seat and leaning, I could easily compensate with my 200 lbs.

Go from that to a 4000 lb tractor, much higher off the ground, there's no way you are compensating for that, especially not with loaded tires. One little bump is all you'll need.

Some of the guys around here mow the slopes that are 45 degrees or more with their tractor, but they've got some big weights on the uphill side of said tractor.
 
   / More slope questions #4  
...I was just about to hook up a rear rotary mower and have at it. (BTW it has the 300cx FEL on it, no tire liquid, or tire weights)

Thanks for any input

Bob

That is pretty steep. Do you feel uncomfortable mowing those slopes?

I suggest you have those tires filled. That will add quite a bit of stability. Also, drop the loader off to lower the center of gravity (makes a world of difference when I'm mowing with my 790...but I'm not mowing slopes nearly as steep as you are).
The weight of that cab is raising the center of gravity quite a bit. The filled tires will help offset that. Dropping the loader off (or even just the bucket, if it's quick attach) will help even more.

After that, just go slow (no bouncing around) and don't mow if the grass is wet.

BTW, keep your seatbelt on when mowing those slopes.
 
   / More slope questions #5  
Hi

I read with some interest the two threads on down slope and and side slope ie rollover issues and meters to tell the angle.

I just purchased a 3720 with a cab in December and enjoyed the nice warm cab blowing snow.

My previous tractor was a 755 4wd that I had for 23 years. we recently moved and I had been mowing some slopes ie ditches in along the road with no real concern about rollover. I would sit on the high side of the seat and go back and forth.

Early this spring I took the 3720 for ride to see how it would do where I had mowed before and the slopes of the ditches seemed much steeper to me but I chalked it up to being a bit higher off the ground and a new tractor I was not familiar with and I could not sit on the high side so to speak in the cab. The 3720 has 5' wide track where the 755 had 4'.

After reading the two threads I went out today with a level that reads in degrees and discovered that a good portion of the slopes were 20- 23 degrees, some places 25 degrees. Based on what I am reading it seems that driving along this slope mowing is not a good idea. I looked at those rollover meters and they seem to imply 15 degrees is the limit and at 20 plus you are pushing your luck.

Am I interpreting this correct? I was just about to hook up a rear rotary mower and have at it. (BTW it has the 300cx FEL on it, no tire liquid, or tire weights)

Thanks for any input

Bob
Liquid fill your tires...put the valve stem at either 3:00 or 9:00 o'clock...that way you won't fill above the centerline of the hub and will keep the center of gravity as low as possible. Anything above the centerline of the hub will start to raise the center of gravity...remember, you are more concerned with keeping the center of gravity as low as you can, so you don't want to fill as you typically would for ballast alone...you will also benefit from the added weight. I also keep my FEL on and carry it as low as possible...it makes it possible to quickly drop it to the ground and stabilize the tractor if it gets "tippy". I keep my hand on the joystick and ready drop it when the "pucker" nerve gets tingly. Seatbelt on, ROPS up and locked and take it very slow...it doesn't take much of a jolt to upset the balance on a slope. Although it's counter-intuitive, if it starts to raise the uphill back tire, quickly steer down hill, that will often settle it. If at all possible, mow up and down hill as opposed to across the slope. Above all, be careful.
 
   / More slope questions #6  
Bob,

I flipped both my front and rear tires around, which made my footprint about a 1' wider or so, and really helped with side slope stability. Not sure if you can do that on your 3720.

Also, I find the rear mower---at least psychologically, if not physically---improves stability. Even though it isn't rigidly coupled to the tractor, I suspect there is a incremental improvement in stability. Careful when you lift it, though!

FWIW, the rear of my tractor will begin to slide when I'm at the limit. In fact, when I'm mowing road shoulders, a fair amount of the time my tractor is oriented at an angle relative to direction of travel---because my rear is sliding downhill. In those cases, the slide is controllable and I'm in 4WD. All bets are off if you hit a hole or a rock. As above, be prepared to quickly turn downhill.

I also keep my FEL just a couple inches off the ground. Again, if you have to turn downhill, be prepared to lift it up; otherwise, you run the risk of it grounding out, which I suspect would flip you.
 
   / More slope questions #7  
Although Barely Smokin' and mustangsallysdad both wrote good, thoughtful posts, both stated to leave the loader on.
In my post, I'd written to remove it to lower the center of gravity. No matter how low one keeps the bucket, most of the loader's weight (masts and frame) is still well above the axles.
Obviousy, the "feel" of stability is subjective...but I do feel the tractor is much more stable when my loader is off.
So, I suggest bobsjd try it both ways...and determine for himself which way works best for him.

However, we all agree...get those rear tires filled!
 
   / More slope questions #8  
Roy, you're probably right---leaving the FEL on does raise the CoG. On the flip side, if the FEL were a couple inches off the ground and you had a load of gravel in it, the CoG would probably be lower than stock.

I never take mine off when I'm mowing b/c I'm always using it to push branches out of the way, carry tools, clean up, etc., so I can't say I've noticed a difference either way....
 
   / More slope questions #9  
Although it's counter-intuitive, if it starts to raise the uphill back tire, quickly steer down hill, that will often settle it. If at all possible, mow up and down hill as opposed to across the slope. Above all, be careful.

These things keep in mind. :)

Since flopping the dozer I've gotten more than a little paranoid about side angles and will often mow up/down rather than across even though I could easily do it across.

I always remove the FEL when using the rotary as it's in the way more than anything. I mow around a lot of trees so making my self smaller is a better idea.
 
   / More slope questions
  • Thread Starter
#10  
All

Thanks for all the suggestions, I have also been reading the other thread.

Well here are my results of last weekends "testing". I must have just been lucky the first time I drove the slopes. I got out of the tractor a couple of times on the 22 degree ones and it really looked like it was going to go over looking from the rear. At one point when I got back in it rocked a bit - scared the s*&( out of me. Even the ones at 18 degrees were a bit steep.

I had a heavy rotary mower on the back - a Landpride 72" at 1100 pounds, I really did not sense any addtiional stability with it on. The Landpride is actually too big for the 3720. I thought it would snap the three point when I lifted it.

So the drainage ditches are out and one other area also.

I have Kubota 326 zero turn that does those places real nice no hint of runaway or tipping - nice and low to the ground.

I was trying to maximize my time in the cab - no dust, nice and cool.

The 3720 can have its rear tires reversed but you only get a few inches, I have been told there is a wheel kit that moves each side out 6" so you gain a foot in width, not sure where to get it.

My goal is to use the cab tractor as much as possible ie get my many $$$$$ spent worth out of it. but I sure do not want to roll it so I get to spend more $$!

Thanks again for the advice

Bob
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

UNUSED EINGP MSC2030F 20' X 30' ALL-STEEL CARPORT (A54757)
UNUSED EINGP...
Texas Post Driver Series 500 Heavy-duty Hydraulic Post Driver (A53473)
Texas Post Driver...
UNUSED RETRACTABLE AIR HOSE REEL (A54757)
UNUSED RETRACTABLE...
2017 CATERPILLAR D6T LGP HI TRACK CRAWLER DOZER (A51246)
2017 CATERPILLAR...
SCAN FOR HAULING AND FINANCING INFORMATION (A54757)
SCAN FOR HAULING...
UNUSED SDLANCH SDLC2030FT ALL STEEL CARPORT (A54757)
UNUSED SDLANCH...
 
Top