More land plane questions

   / More land plane questions #11  
You are right. Watch a roadgrader work. (Horizontal angle & verticle angle)

There was mention of scarifiers. This video shows some in use and the following blade design. The focus is not on the machine but the principles behind making it work and how some of the ideas could be used for building ones own equipment.


I am not disputing the theory of shearing action as a principal, I get that. But a road grader has the capability to adjust the level of the turn table a simple lpgs does not. Most lpgs with angled blades are about 10 to 15 degree maximum. There isn't much movement of material laterally, a good indication there isn't much shearing going on.

If you look at the picture of Morris lpgs build on end and see how far back the trailing edge of the first blade is you can see how it is difficult to dig in and get a bite. With a straight blade close to the front skids their is less need for the rippers as it can dig in easily.

The chief advantage of an angled blade on a lpgs is to have the spoils on only one side. This allows for a little cleaner finish product when smoothing a large area or field. You have to get outside on the tractor and work with them to notice that.
 
   / More land plane questions #12  
No shearing? And I thought the end result required a cut and windrow to mix the materials and make a nice even grade.
 
   / More land plane questions #13  
Good points on using angle iron so the "angle" of the blade is already setup!

I was thinking 1" 1/4 below the skids for the blade but I think I will make that closer to my bottom adjustment and have 3/4" set right in the middle if you are finding that works good.

I like the idea of having the both on the same piece of metal for adjustment purposes. I was thinking of doing them separately for more adjustment but it looks like that maybe not needed?

Thanks for all the photos and ideas and please keep them coming!

You can still set the front or rear higher/lower than the other. After playing with mine for awhile they pretty much both stay at 1/2" below the skids.

Of course if I welded them in that position I would need to move them the next day. I have a bunch of gopher mounds to knock down, may move them to 1/2" up for that.
 
   / More land plane questions
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I set them at about 3/4 of an inch lower then the skid but have about a 1/2 more they can go down and a 1/2 to go up. What angle has everyone found works the best for a blade to lean back at ( L : being straight up and down ^ about 45% ) Hope that is clear.....
 
   / More land plane questions #15  
You are right. Watch a roadgrader work. (Horizontal angle & verticle angle)

There was mention of scarifiers. This video shows some in use and the following blade design. The focus is not on the machine but the principles behind making it work and how some of the ideas could be used for building ones own equipment.
Forget the LPGS! Where can I get me one of those graders? For a 40hp tractor... :headscratch:
 
   / More land plane questions #16  
Nearly all put the angle like ^
Land Pride punches holes in both front and back of both angles and offers an optional set of blades for facing rear.
 
   / More land plane questions #17  
No shearing? And I thought the end result required a cut and windrow to mix the materials and make a nice even grade.

My mistake I should have said slicing with movement parallel to the blade.
 

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