Moldboard plows

[tree grower]

I have read posts by jeff9366 and farmwithjunk, but still have trouble. I have a Ferguson 16A single bottom plow behind a JD 1050 fwd. The tires are 13.6-28 on 12" rims, and the wheels are set as narrow as possible. It is 37" between inside sidewalls. I raised the left rear tire 8", and adjusted the plow per jeff and farm .. instructions . In practice the plow tracks true and sucks as much as the miserable soil will allow, but the furrows are nearly 2 ft apart. The plow beam is set as far to the right as possible on the offset drawbar, and the stay chains on the bottom links are tight. Rotating the drawbar small amounts just to see what happens doesn't make much difference. BTW, my previous tractor was a Ford 850, and the plow was just as uncooperative. Is it possible that this plow was intended to be used on a particular make and model of tractor? Does my 1050 need to use a specific brand of plow? Any insights are most appreciated.

 

[oosik]

I have an 18" Pittsburg single bottom moldboard plow. The most difficult adjustment - for me. Adjusting it horizontally so I can track back down the open furrow and create a second furrow the correct spacing from the first. After much time spent making horizontal adjustments - it does pretty well now. But it was not easy.

I could get the appropriate spacing if I didn't mind driving on the turned furrow. I wanted to be able to track back down the opened ditch with the front & rear tire. Also - have the plow open a second furrow the appropriate distance from the first.

For me it was a matter of trial & error. I think my sway links were, initially, too loose. The plow would not track the way it hung when lifted. It would alway pull to the side and leave an unplowed strip.

Trial & error - it was my first experience with a moldboard plow. Perhaps a multi bottom would be easier. You could alway overlap and ensure complete coverage.

 

[DJ54]

A picture from behind would be a big help, with the plow mounted, setting on the ground. Take the picture(s) lining up with the inside of the right rear tire, a few feet back.

The back end of the share, should at the least, line up with the inside of the right rear tire. That way, when that tire is in the furrow, it will cut the next furrows bottom, clean into the previous furrow bottom. If not, it will crowd the plow to the left.

Does that plow have a tail wheel..? The tail wheel should ride against the furrow wall, and help hold it in place.

 

[oosik]

I'll tell you. Once I got things adjusted - a single bottom MB plow behind a 65 hp tractor is a cutting machine.

 

[CADplans]

A picture from behind would be a big help, with the plow mounted, setting on the ground. Take the picture(s) lining up with the inside of the right rear tire, a few feet back.
.

I would think the pic needs to be of the plow in the ground,, showing the position the draft arms are forced to by the plow,,

The solution might be simply shortening the right draft arm chain,,,

On my JD 4105, if the draft arm chains are not correct,, the implement will simply walk to the side,,
Even this landscape rake will push the draft arms to the side,,

 

[jeff9366]

Here is a Ferguson plow service manual: http://ploughmyfield.com/files/Plough Service Manual.pdf

Your Ferguson plow should fit every Category 1 Three Point Hitch and turn dirt beautifully.

I am sorry you are struggling.

 

[jjp8182]

Just me, but I'm wondering if the plow is too narrow of a total working width for the tractor to drive in the furrow bottom.

Not a expert on plowing, but it'd seem to me that if the total plow working width isn't roughly half the distance between the inside of the rear sidewalls at a minimum a person would run into issues with aligning the rows appropriately ---- with the width of a single share needing to be roughly similar to the tire width so the tire can sit in the furrow bottom (and have firmer soil to grab).

While it wasn't specified, I'm guessing this is a 12" single bottom plow? (just a guess, given the distance between furrows, and the distance between inner sidewalls &tire widths).

To my mind the key with plowing is to get the total draft load of the plow to be inline with the draft line of the tractor, with the spacing of tires being driven by the need to potentially shift where that line is with respect to the tractor --- as well as to position the right tire(s) so it/they can land in the furrow made by the last share on the plow.

If you think of the plow as acting like a sea anchor, where it will pull the tractor into line where the draft load from the plow rudders the tractor into a balance it may make adjusting the plow position easier to understand.

Of course, there's also the option of not having the right wheels in the furrow bottom when plowing, and adjusting the plow accordingly for that......

Again not claiming to be a plowing expert, just making some observations based on my own experiences and thinking through some of the physics/geometry of the situation.....

 

[jeff9366]

It is a 16" plow.

 

[kthompson]

treegrower, there are a few videos on youtube on these plows. Most likely they are those setting up a single plow also. No idea on the model of the plow or the tractor you are working with but the dimn you give on the tractor tires not a farm tractor so you plow may not work with that width if it is true farm plow. But they do make those plows for garden tractors. What comes to my mind is you have a left hand or the rear plow of a two plow set. Not sure that is possible for the moldboard plows I have seen the plow on the left is bolted to the plow on it's right.
Those plows can be a little tricky to get set up correctly but not really hard. When they are set right they do some pretty work and will lay dirt as level as any implement will.

 

[tree grower]

Here is a Ferguson plow service manual: http://ploughmyfield.com/files/Plough Service Manual.pdf

Your Ferguson plow should fit every Category 1 Three Point Hitch and turn dirt beautifully.

I am sorry you are struggling.

The Ferguson manual is exactly what I need. . It seems that my problem stems from damage suffered by the plow many years ago. The beam was broken in the curve, but appears to have been well-repaired with long 1/2" fish plates welded to both sides. For all rocks I have hit, there is no sign of stress or failure. The serious problem appears to be the share. From the point to the wing tip is 18 1/2", and the rough wingtip indicates modification with an acetylene torch. The landside is 17" long (not including the point). The distance from the landside to the wingtip is 10 1/2", and should be 16". To achieve the 16" it appears that the share should ~28" long. Does that sound right? I searched the internet for Ferguson plow parts and came up with nada. Any suggestions?