Moldboard plowing

[Youngfarmerboy]

I’d leave Grandpa alone.

I haven’t turned land in decades but don’t remember it being that difficult. Turned 15 acres for 4 years growing corn for my FFA project. Ford 8N then a MF 135 two row. Get your first pass shallow and straight, adjust your plow, then stay in the furrow and watch the butterflies. Last pass shallow also. First time across the field with about 4-5 more trips to go.

Turn
Harrow
Plant
Plow & side dress
Plow
Spray herbicide if necessary

ok thank you

 

[Big Barn]

He uses 2nd gear at around 900 to 1000 rpm I think pretty low

Second gear! Okay well that explains it. He isn’t hurting anything.

We had two Ford 5000s and a FWA 5610 pulling 3x16 bottom reversible ( two way) plows. Always fifth gear and about 3/4 throttle.

 

[Youngfarmerboy]

Second gear! Okay well that explains it. He isn’t hurting anything.

We had two Ford 5000s and a FWA 5610 pulling 3x16 bottom reversible ( two way) plows. Always fifth gear and about 3/4 throttle.

Ok so secon gear is ok higher gear is better? Cause it doesn't really pull the plow the greatest on new ground. Now dirt that has been turned over before it pulls a little better. I wonder if the plow isn't adjusted right

 

[Big Barn]

Ok so secon gear is ok higher gear is better? Cause it doesn't really pull the plow the greatest on new ground. Now dirt that has been turned over before it pulls a little better. I wonder if the plow isn't adjusted right

Are the moldboards scoured? (shiny?). Does the plow pull to one side or the other?

Perhaps new plow shares are needed?

Is he using colters in the new ground? If so are they close to original diameter or worn or perhaps need to be adjusted for proper engagement? (Sideways as well as vertical)

He should NOT be using the lower link sway bars at all. The implement cannot be rigid.

As TxJim mentioned, perhaps he is going too slow in new ground to roll the soil over.

Any chance of photos?

 

[def38]

Keep the oil clean, keep the temperature at normal and plow at any RPM where the engine maintains RPM with the governor and all will be well.

 

[Farmer495]

No harm in using any RPM within governed range if the engine isn't lugging. You will burn less fuel, "gear up throttle down" but I don't run a tractor at idle working it though, that makes no sense to me.

When plowing I like the RPM up enough that the hydraulics and steering work properly and respond quickly, I pick the gear and rpm that work the best.

If you can open the throttle up and the tractor easily gains rpm it isn't being lugged.

Some plow bottoms need slow speed too, go too fast and they won't work right.

Everyone runs a tractor different, some set the throttle wide open all the time for no reason, others lug them to death.

 

[Farmer495]

Ok so secon gear is ok higher gear is better? Cause it doesn't really pull the plow the greatest on new ground. Now dirt that has been turned over before it pulls a little better. I wonder if the plow isn't adjusted right

2nd gear is hardly moving at idle. Too slow will also cause poor plowing. Have to see how the plow was set and what the wear parts look like.

Plowing is an art and so it setting up a plow.

 

[Tx Jim]

If you can open the throttle up and the tractor easily gains rpm it isn't being lugged.

Some plow bottoms need slow speed too, go too fast and they won't work right.

Everyone runs a tractor different, some set the throttle wide open all the time for no reason, others lug them to death.

And some moldboard bottoms are referred to as high speed bottoms & require speeds around 4-6 mph to roll soil correctly. I wonder how deep the OP's GP was plowing?

 

[Sonny580]

My Oliver semi mount requires 7 mph + to even start rolling dirt--- then its hammer down with whatever you got hooked to it! No pussyfootin around with that one. Cub plow on the other is designed for low hp, low speed, so all plows are different.

 

[Youngfarmerboy]

Are the moldboards scoured? (shiny?). Does the plow pull to one side or the other?

Perhaps new plow shares are needed?

Is he using colters in the new ground? If so are they close to original diameter or worn or perhaps need to be adjusted for proper engagement? (Sideways as well as vertical)

He should NOT be using the lower link sway bars at all. The implement cannot be rigid.

As TxJim mentioned, perhaps he is going too slow in new ground to roll the soil over.

Any chance of photos?

Yes they are shiny. Umm I think it pulls straight? I'm not sure. Also when the first moldboard gets into the ground it likes to spin the rear wheels. There is 2 Colters one is missing in the rear. No I don't have any photos sadly. That's what I thought maybe a higher gear will work. We r done plowing anyways

 

[Farmer495]

And some moldboard bottoms are referred to as high speed bottoms & require speeds around 4-6 mph to roll soil correctly. I wonder how deep the OP's GP was plowing?

I agree, my IH plow likes 4 MPH or so, I can pull it faster but fixed beam and rocks don't agree. 2MPH and the sod hardly wants to flip, 6 MPH it almost spins it over an extra 90 degrees.

 

[Farmer495]

Yes they are shiny. Umm I think it pulls straight? I'm not sure. Also when the first moldboard gets into the ground it likes to spin the rear wheels. There is 2 Colters one is missing in the rear. No I don't have any photos sadly. That's what I thought maybe a higher gear will work. We r done plowing anyways

If it's spinning wheels 2nd gear at an idle then it might be too wet (slippage) Extra speed helps in wet going. I will speed up in a wet location, in my case with gear drive tractor I'll just open the throttle up to gain speed. ( stay in same gear under load) No way would I slow down, you want momentum.

 

[Youngfarmerboy]

If it's spinning wheels 2nd gear at an idle then it might be too wet (slippage) Extra speed helps in wet going. I will speed up in a wet location, in my case with gear drive tractor I'll just open the throttle up to gain speed. ( stay in same gear under load) No way would I slow down, you want momentum.

Ok that makes sense

 

[Martin Roper]

Does the tractor turn the sky dark with its black smoke?

What wears an engine more: “lugging” (but not close to stall & can increase rpms if desired) or higher rpms? I’d guess more rpms has greater wear (even though under less torque)?
What gets better diesel burn: Lugging or higher rpm? I’d guess high rpms do, less fuel per rev gets burnt better than trying to burn more fuel per rev? As evidenced by less black smoke.
Personally, I like hearing low rpm diesels and Harley’s applying torque better than screaming weed-wackers.

bonus question: Does a lugging engine or high rpm engine run cooler. Issues to consider: Friction of parts moving vs friction under torque vs amount of fuel/cycle vs amount of air/cycle vs efficiently of cooling system at various rpms, etc..?
Hmmm......

I consider that the maximum power is designed to be achieved at PTO speed or thereabouts, plus the fact that you will have the most oil being pumped through the "veins" so that is where the engine is "happy"