mitsu D2650FD...gettin' started

[SPDRMNKY]

Howdy,

Well, I'm new around here...said 'howdy' in the intro forum, did some browsing, and exercised the search function a good deal, and here I am posting up.

new to me Mitsubishi D2650FD a few years out of a refurb

first item of business is the battery, but I think NAPA and I can handle that

next will be the water pump...where have you had luck finding these? is it likely the parts stores can find em'? is one internet source better than others?

since I haven't seen much mention of my D2650 here at TBN, or on the interwebs, is there a go to place for manuals and parts?

Thanks for steering a newbie in the right direction.

Cheers!

 

[oliver28472]

There are at least a couple good vendors that post here that will help you with manuals parts etc. Check out lens12 on the wheel spindle thread. Also check out Valley Power. For water pumps, I recommend taking it to a good parts store and let them send it off for rebuild. That saved me a lot of money.

 

[SPDRMNKY]

Thank you. I'll check those two out...and see what my parts house can do for a rebuild.

Today was tear down day, and I found several interesting things...

the alternator has been "revamped" (it's also broke)

I'm pretty sure that's not supposed to look like that...

it was coming out of the loose fittings on the FEL also, so gonna have to bleed

can anyone tell me if the tranny and hyd system use/share the same fluid? (I'm guessing yes)

what about the rear portal axles? and do you fill those full, or just up to the plug (like on auto axles)?

will the big bucket of generic tractor fluid work? ...and maybe gear oil for the axles?

I did find out what engine I have...

...so that should be helpful.

off to find parts and manuals, and browse TBN some more...cheers!

 

[Kernopelli]

I swapped my alternator from the stock 12 amp model to a 35 amp 1972 Ford Courier alternator. Same plug ( which you don't have) and bolts up with little modification to mounts. Got mine at O'Reilly's auto parts for about $40.( It's even a Mitsubishi alternator.) Had good luck with the parts suppliers already mentioned as well as NCW Tractor Parts in Las Vegas and Ebay too. Universal hydraulic fluid available at farm supply stores should be fine for the trans/hydraulic system ( yes, they're shared). 80=90 wt gear oil in the axles. There has been a guy in GA that has been trying to sell parts for a 2650 on Ebay for at least a year. If you need any hard parts, panels, dash, grill etc. I would contact him and try to negotiate. I know parts manuals are available but not sure if you'll find a 2650 specific service manual. May try an I&T service manual for MT160-MT300 models and rely on the crossover aspect of certain areas/parts if a model specific manual cant be found.

I have owned a number of Mitsubishi 3 and 4 cylinder models and they have all been very well made, dependable machines. No frills....but durable as an anvil.

 

[SPDRMNKY]

Thanks for pointing me in the direction of cheap(er) alternators. While I'm at it, I'm going to swap to one with an internal regulator. Lot's of info out there on doing that with a GM Delco one, but that's going to be difficult to mount. I'll do some asking at the parts house, and hopefully they're in a searching kind of mood.

I spent all morning tracing wires, and trying to figure out the mess that was under the dash. That's part of what convinced me to go with a more modern alternator. Should be able to keep the CHG idiot light, and lose the regulator. All the safety "interlock" switches have been bypassed/broken...surprise.

I did find and clean the hyd filter which is located under the seat...here.
btw...what's that little valve body at the bottom right of the pic?

I'm letting the fluid drain over night, and have been contemplating pulling all the hyd lines off to drain the contaminated fluid. Then I'll have to figure out how to prime the hyd pump?

I did find out that there's a front plate on my hyd pump mount, so there's the potential to add a second pump someday.

will pull the cover someday to see if the gear has splines all the way through to the front.

The guy at NCW was very helpful and knowledgeable...thanks for pointing me there too!

this thing had almost 7 gallons of universal fluid, and 2.5 gallons of engine oil in it...that just doesn't seem right?
going to see if my parts house can cross the oil filter tomorrow.

the rest of the day was spent cleaning up, and taking care of some little things...

3pt sway chains

fuel return lines

headlights

that's a cool little bulb

removed the busted zerk, tapped to 1/8" pipe, refitted with SAE, and filled her full

and one hyd hose on the FEL that needs a new end

I'm also going to find some 5/8" bolts to secure the front of the FEL to the subframe (currently only held by two), and maybe find the weight rack/bumper to reinstall

was able to work in relative comfort with the woodstove going, until the afternoon...then I started sweating...in February!

if anyone can give me some insight on how to prime this hyd pump after draining all the lines, I'd be grateful!

Cheers!

 

[SPDRMNKY]

was able to find an oil filter that worked...NAPA 1334 (20mm x 1.5mm threads), and I have a guy fabbing up a mount for the GM Delco alternator.

slow start to the day, but I got the front of the FEL bolted back up...had to trim some off the sides of each washer

since I got called into town I made a run to the farm store and picked up a muffler...

and some drawbar parts...still a work in progress

the water pump came in today also, so maybe I can get that put back together this weekend!

still waiting on a tach cable, ign switch, and headlight bulbs, and maybe tomorrow I'll get the nerve up to blow out all the hyd lines

cheers!

 

[284 International]

It looks like you are making great progress, congratulations! You shouldn't need to do anything special to prime the hydraulic pump. Just give it a little bit of time to work its way through the suction filter before starting it, and everything should work rapidly. I would consider draining all the fluid possible from the cylinders and hoses, even flushing with that used engine oil if you are really particular. It doesn't take much water at all to give that milkshake-looking emulsion, so every bit you can get out is helpful.

I am glad to hear your experience with NCW tractor parts was positive. The single order I placed with them was nightmarish, their customer service non-existent for an extended time, and then exceedingly rude to boot. (In addition to being wrong on point... ) They have a wide array of products that are frequently hard or impossible to find elsewhere, so it is good to hear that I can consider attempting to do business with them again.

I look forward to seeing the rest of your pictures as you get your tractor up and operating again.

 

[SPDRMNKY]

what a day...good progress, but I now have a fumes headache...such it is.

got the hyd lines all blown out today...and only a few drops on my wife's car! :confused3:

one item of note...if'n yer' gonna just tap the starter to get the fluid out of the intake line, pump, and hose that feeds the FEL...make SURE the fuel shut off rod hasn't wiggled it's way to half throttle (cuz' ya' know...the dash is torn apart)...just the voice of experience here. :dance1:

was waiting for the kitty litter and solvent to do it's work on the oil this afternoon, so only got a few small things done...headlight back in, 3pt lift arm slightly less fubar'd, and the SMV sign and toolbox mounted

maybe tomorrow will be a water pump installation day?

cheers!

 

[speedyspider2050]

Welcome to the site.. I do like Bill for manuals and parts. Here is his email addy...sheaftractor@grics.net He is very knowledgeable about parts and pieces. Loved your pics and you are making good progress.

 

[oliver28472]

That's not Bill, it is Len's but he's a good one too!

 

[speedyspider2050]

Thanks for the correction Oliver28472... Len is a great knowledge base also....

 

[SPDRMNKY]

after an exchange to get the water pump that stuck out far enough, we have a winner...so far no leaks

the tach cable and ignition switch came in also, so I should have the dash back together tomorrow

the air intake hose had a hole worn in it, so with a little help from HD, we have this...

nice to be able to put stuff back together again...still waiting on the new alt mount

have a good weekend!

 

[oliver28472]

Do I see a plug on the water pump just above the bottom hose? Is so, you could remove that and use that spot for a gauge.

 

[SPDRMNKY]

yep...that plug used to be part of a bypass from below the thermostat back into the water pump...I'm not gonna run a thermostat, so it's just plugged.

just above that (and below the thermostat spot in the head) is the temp gauge probe. kind of a dark picture...apologies.

 

[SPDRMNKY]

got a few little things done today like headlight bulbs (and something else) while I waited for the stove to warm up the garage...oh yeah, installed new tach cable.

took me a while to get the ignition switch figured...a cheap parts house one had been swapped in. in the end it was the battery in my DMM that needed replacing...then everything checked out fine. was able to get the wiring tidy-ed up under the dash. removed the regulator, and installed some jumpers to utilize existing wiring for field and sensor connections on the new alternator. still waiting on the alt mount. :dance1:

was going to add wire loom, but zip ties worked better, and made more sense

took me a while to get the throttle linkage figured again...it's been awhile since I took it apart

gotta make a run for a FEL bolt and a new v-belt...will probably wait until alt mount comes in

cheers!

 

[SPDRMNKY]

so...she's runnin', and everything works (except the temp gauge stopped)...put the old alternator on as an idler, and the battery oughta last until the mount comes in. hydraulics primed themselves pretty quickly. man, those glowplugs sure cycle fast!

can anyone give me some insight on the VTEKS loaders on these little tractors? when the FEL is at full height, the bucket only tips forward to level...no way I could completely dump the bucket at full lift. is this normal? (not what I expected)

now, the original tilt cyl's have been swapped out for some farm store models, so maybe they just don't have enough throw? before I start chasing cylinders I thought I'd ask...

cheers!

 

[Kernopelli]

Here is a thread that may offer some info on factory cylinder specs for a V2 FEL. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/233229-curl-bucket-cylinder-over-extended-2.html You could also send Scotty Dive a PM and ask about tilt angles on his.

 

[Kernopelli]

YZoutlet has a sticky at the top of the hydraulics forum. I don't know anything about them but they have some great prices. They don't have an exact match to the V2 cylinder specs that Scotty Dive posted but they have a 14" stroke cross tube for $65. It could probably be cut down and rewelded/modified to the correct stroke and length specs if someone wanted to put some effort into making them a better match. I cut/rewelded all the cylinders on my FEL and it was actually a pretty easy chore. Welded Tube Cross Cylinders - YZOUTLET

Also added a pic of a VTEK at full height an tilt angle

 

[SPDRMNKY]

View attachment 304551

Also added a pic of a VTEK at full height an tilt angle

awesome...thank you! that is what I was expecting, but currently ain't even close.

I'll check out that sticky, and do some figuring on what stroke is needed...after this blizzard settles down.

forgot to mention I have a V3.

 

[SPDRMNKY]

well...the alternator mount came in finally.

you can see it's mod'd a bit from the original sketches

and it was a bit cold today, so I baked the paint on

it mounted up okay...took some finnegeling to find the sweet spot

and she wired up okay...made a pigtail setup with 90 degree connectors (for the idiot light and exciter connections) for clearance when loosening tension on the belt

found a v-belt that worked...42" by 1/2" wide...the alignment ain't perfect, but this ain't the space shuttle either...it'll run forever

and the CHG idiot light functions properly!

I ended up using existing wiring as much as possible (much cleaner, and less confusing later on...minmal ghost wires), which means I added some jumpers at the old regulator plug. now I have a commonly available alternator with an internal regulator.

cheers!