Minimum horsepower needed

[moloss]

what is the minimum horsepower needed to 1.) 7-8 foot bush hog 2.) have a loader large enough to lift round bail of hay (for cows)? thanks

 

[john_bud]

for the bush hog, plan on 5 hp per foot of width. (6 is better, but 5 works)

For the loader, you need to determine the weight of the bales. Then get the loader that will lift it, then determine the tractors it fits. Many bales are in the 1400# range, some more some less. You need to do some work around your area to see what is being put up.

On the bright side, typically a tractor that can haul round bales can easily do a 7 or 8' cutter. Are you looking for used or new?

 

[Z-Michigan]

There are many posts on essentially the same topic. I was looking for running a 6' cutter and moving round bales. I wound up with a JD 5105, which will run the cutter with ease, and while I haven't tried yet should also move round bales with ease. In hindsight I didn't need quite as big a tractor for these tasks, though it gives me a big margin of safety and ease of use.

Based on my experience so far, I think 5hp per foot of cutter is a good estimate of what you need, but if you can afford a 5-15hp margin above that, you will probably be happy to have it. I believe that Deere indicates 40hp minimum for a 8' pull type cutter and 60 for a lift type cutter. There is no reason lifting the cutter actually takes more hp, I believe the number is just to preclude people from hooking up a 4720 to an 8' lift cutter and expecting to have a useable setup.

For these tasks you would probably be ok with the largest CUTs, at least for a 7' cutter, or you would be in comfortable territory with most utility type tractors (JD5105 or 5225, Kubota M5040, New Holland TC55 and TN60, etc.). If you want the 8' cutter you will probably be happier with a utility tractor, though a large CUT may work ok with a pull-type 8' cutter.

 

[moloss]

thanks for the replies guys......new or used (probably used due to price) I don't need alot of frills just the best bang for my buck....I've seen several larger tractors that could easily fit the bill but they all have 2000 hours or more and have seen many tractors with over 5000 hours.....at what point does a tractor start becoming less reliable? I can afford a tractor (barely) but I don't want to turn around a drop more money into one.......again thanks for y'alls replies.....Chris

 

[Glowplug]

If I had to give a "guesstimate" I'd say about 50hp should be about right. But there probably wouldn't be a big margin of "breathing room" there. I pull a 10-foot rotary cutter with my Kubota M7040. It has 68hp at the engine and 62hp at the PTO. It is not a lift type mower so that helps. It does well with no problems, but when I start up the PTO with that thing on there the engine really bogs down for a few seconds to get the inertia moving in the blades on that cutter. I have a total lifting capacity on my FEL of about 2,000#. So if you count on lifting a 1400# round bale plus the weight of the loader arms and either a bucket or bale spear you may need a lifting capacity of 1600-1700# minimum. Good luck!

By the way, WELCOME TO TBN!!

 

[Z-Michigan]

Chris - tractor life depends a lot on brand and whether it's a CUT or utility type tractor. If you get a utility type from a major maker, 2000 hours is just a little past break-in, and you should have many years remaining. A CUT from a good brand will last more than 2000 hours but will definitely be farther along in wear than a utility from the same brand. If you get a CUT from an off-brand, 2000 hours may be close to the end of its life. A utility from an off-brand is anyone's guess.

Chuck - I'm not certain, but I think rated FEL lift capacities normally include the weight of the loader arms and whatever the standard bucket is. So your LA1153 loader should lift 2500lbs inside the standard bucket; if you get a bale spear that weighs the same or less than the bucket, you should theoretically be able to lift a 2500lb bale (realistically a 2500lb bale is going to be so large in dimensions that you can't control it or safely lift it on that tractor/loader combination). I don't think the weight of the attachment on the loader matters much until you start looking at 4-in-1 buckets or heavy duty construction and foundry buckets that weigh a lot more than our standard material buckets.

 

[Soundguy]

Minimum hp tractor to lift the round bales may not be the minimum hp needed to run a 7-8' rotary mower.

My 33hp 1955 ford 660 with a 1-arm loader lifts round bales.. but would be at it's max running a 6' mower. My 1955 850 would spin a 7' mower and perhaps an 8' if just topping pasture grasses.

If I were you.. I'd look above minimum.

I think the aforementioned 50hp number is good to look at. should let you spin a 7' mower with ease.. and 8' if you aren't doing landclearing. if you can hit mid 50's.. then 8' is even more doable. ( I've seen a ford 5610 run a 10' mower.. it was straining a bit.. but did it.. ).. On the flip.. an oldy but goody like a late ford 5000 would fix you up.. 67 pto hp, and 71 eng. runs a 10' mower just fine.. and will take a heavy duty loader or bale spear in the rear.

( if ya get a cat 2 tractor you are probably on the right track )

Drag vs 3pt will make a small difference in 'sugested hp'

Soundguy

 

[BTDT]

what is the minimum horsepower needed to 1.) 7-8 foot bush hog 2.) have a loader large enough to lift round bail of hay (for cows)? thanks

Are you wanting both on the tractor at the same time? I see guys moving bales with a 3pt spear (no loader), then you could switch spear for mower and mow. Might get by with a smaller tractor this way. Now if your loading bales on a trailer, and actually need a front loader with bale spear, might need the bigger tractor and the mower on rear for ballast.

 

[N80]

I used a pull-type 7 foot mower with my 45 hp tractor with no problems, but I'd say it is a little light and loader capacity a little low for round bales (particularly if wet). I think it would do it, but again, you'd be at max capacity.

I think the JD 5105 or the Kubota M5040 would be ideal.

 

[RollingsFarms]

I agree with George. OR, you could take it a step further and move up to a 55-56hp model and have that extra 5 or 6 horses. not sure what models for Kubota these would be but it would be in comparison to a JD 5205 or JD 5203.

 

[JerryG]

For what you want to do you need a utility tractor with 50 hp or more. Sure some of the larger compacts could lift the bales and some could run the mower that you want. But, it will be much harder on the tractor. Compacts are really not designed for that kind of work. If you want something used, look at a MF 100, 200, or 400 series or Ford 2000 or Ford 3000 series. I don't know what would be in that size in JD, Case etc, but all the major manufactures have utilities in that size.

 

[moloss]

I would like to use the loader with the bush hog attached......I've seen some mid 90's utility tractors with around 2000 hours.....I guess I'll need to look for something at least 60hp......thanks guys y'all have been very helpful.....Chris.

 

[RedRiver]

Personally I'd suggest at least a 55-60hp tractor. Also make sure you compare overall weight of the tractors you are looking at, that extra weight will help a lot when you start moving bales with your FEL.

Good luck!

 

[schmism]

ive always thought that the smallest tractor that was suitable for daily round bail work was a TN.

(large grain of salt.... i neither own nor operate one)

 

[VistanTN]

Chris, I don't know what part of the "heart of Dixie" you are in, but here on the Cumberland rim in Mid-TN moving round bales is more of a concern with tractor weight and stability than power. My large round grass hay bales run about 1,500 lbs. Lifting with a bale spear on my Mahindra 6500 is no problem. However, moving them around on my hills ... well let's just say until I fluid filled the tires and moved them out to their widest setting I sucked a small hole in the center of the seat a couple of times. A tractor on three wheels and a bale, pointed downhill causes quite a pucker factor. Now, I would not try to move them with my bucket -- no way to get a good, safe, stable grip on them. Could probably pick up from the side, but would feel really uneasy about much moving around I'd have less the 2' on the side and 2' on the bottom supporting a 5' x 6' bales. Bale spear is the ONLY way to go -- as long as the bale is back on the spear and the two short stabilizing spears, it's not going anywhere until you tip the spear down and back out.

 

[moloss]

I'm located in North Alabama outside of Huntsville.......I do have a hill in the back and I was thinking a heavy tractor would be a wise choice......the tractor market is overwhelming.......is the mahindra made in india?

 

[VistanTN]

Mahindra & Mahindra, Ltd. is an Indian company. They started out as a general heavy industrial manufacturer -- built Jeeps under license from Willys-Overland -- Then in the 50' started making IH tractors under license. They are multinational these days (like most companies). Can't speak for all their tractors, but my 6500 breaks down like this:
Engine, tranny, final drive, frame, and most bodywork -- Mahindra/India
Front axle/drive -- Carraro/Italy
Wheels, tires, canopy -- Various/US
Loader, hydraultics -- KMW/US
Assembly -- Mahindra/US (Tomball TX and Calhoun GA)

While I love mine, the bottom line on tractors is a) what works for you and b) dealer support. I'm haying about 26 acres of pasture -- with the tractor at 5-15 degrees (up, down, or side) on almost all of it. I needed weight, stability, and power and found both a tractor that does that for me and a great dealer with Mahindra.

Given what you have described, I think most of the comments are on target. But the test is go to a bunch of dealers, try (drive and if they'll let you actually do something with them) tractors, get a feel for the dealers. Some will fit you better than others. Some dealers may be very attentive, others disinterested or lackluster. No one tractor is best for every person and every job -- in fact no one tractor is best of every person and a single job, or every job with a single person. This board is a great place to start and learn a LOT -- but ultimately what you get has to fit you, your jobs, and your budget (hated to mention that). Even buying used, I'd visit a bunch of dealers -- not necessarily to buy, but to get a feel for dealers -- that real "steal" on a Framistat 880 may be because the current owner got fed up dealing with the Framistat dealer. 2,000 hours is just well-broken in for most utility tractors. The key with used is how has it been maintained? Does the present owner have good records? Does the oil on the dipstick look reasonably clean, or more like overbaked cherry pie filling? Do the zerks show evidence of being greased recently or is there dried old grease that looks like 10-year old ear wax? My first tractor, the Allis 5020 was 20 years old and well over 1,000 hours (on a compact), but the guy had good maintenance records, manuals (that had enough dirty fingerprints to say they had been used), and knew exactly what wasn't working, what he had already done about the problem (or at least tried), a list of parts sources, ... clearly, though it looked pretty bad (rusted hood and fender removed), it was mechanically a very sound tractor. And that little two-banger diesel is one hard working son-of-a-gun ... So just take your time, learn all you can on here, and look and try a LOT!

Good luck and good hunting,

 

[RedDog]

For what you want to do you need a utility tractor with 50 hp or more. Sure some of the larger compacts could lift the bales and some could run the mower that you want. But, it will be much harder on the tractor. Compacts are really not designed for that kind of work. If you want something used, look at a MF 100, 200, or 400 series or Ford 2000 or Ford 3000 series. I don't know what would be in that size in JD, Case etc, but all the major manufactures have utilities in that size.

Good answer!


Moloss,
I've loaded round bales with pallet forks (don't have spear), and mowed with a 12' bushhog.

Good luck,