MF 1010 electrical help? No Start mystery
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lpakiz
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A digital volt meter, reading in hundredths of a volt, is a wonderful tool because it is so sensitive.
Using it as an indicator of current flow isn’t a good use because it is so sensitive that it shows full scale voltage on an amount of current that won’t light up the bulb of a mosquitos flashlight.
You are trying to indicate current flow, not the mere presence of voltage.
While you MIGHT draw a correct conclusion using a voltmeter as a current indicator, you will get a much more reliable and usable result using a small bulb.
Using it as an indicator of current flow isn’t a good use because it is so sensitive that it shows full scale voltage on an amount of current that won’t light up the bulb of a mosquitos flashlight.
You are trying to indicate current flow, not the mere presence of voltage.
While you MIGHT draw a correct conclusion using a voltmeter as a current indicator, you will get a much more reliable and usable result using a small bulb.
replaced the fusible link.
Glow light and water temp light on the dash lit up bright..and then faded.
Very faint water temp light is all I get now.
Will replace 30 year old fuses tommorow, but I doubt that's it.
Voltage reg/rectifier? Wild guess
Any other ideas appreciated
Glow light and water temp light on the dash lit up bright..and then faded.
Very faint water temp light is all I get now.
Will replace 30 year old fuses tommorow, but I doubt that's it.
Voltage reg/rectifier? Wild guess
Any other ideas appreciated
Dmacleo
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you ever do what was stated in post 9?
before loading the parts cannon got to check that stuff first.
a bad starter can drain like that w/o noticeable smoke.
but we need to know the test results. if battery sits 12.7-13.7 or so with everything off and hitting starter drains it to almost nothing immediately you know where the issue is.
not sure what that uses for solenoid but if its remote solenoid it can short to ground and pull down fast. just like older fords.
before loading the parts cannon got to check that stuff first.
a bad starter can drain like that w/o noticeable smoke.
but we need to know the test results. if battery sits 12.7-13.7 or so with everything off and hitting starter drains it to almost nothing immediately you know where the issue is.
not sure what that uses for solenoid but if its remote solenoid it can short to ground and pull down fast. just like older fords.
lpakiz
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- Greenwood, WI
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Have you cleaned and/or tightened the big, main battery cable connection at the starter solenoid? If I am interpreting the clues correctly, there is a faulty connection somewhere.
When the dash lights come on, will they stay on indefinitely, at least until you add more load, like trying to crank the engine over?
When the dash lights go out, when do they come back on? When you let the key return from “start” to just “on” or what?
If you dont perform these simple tests, folks can’t help you. If these tests are beyond your skill or experience, you might be in over your head and need to call in someone who could get some answers for us.
BTW, a fusible link is either good or open. There is no in between. Just like a glass fuse-it either carries full power or it doesn’t carry any at all.
A poor, loose or corroded connection, on the other hand, can and will carry SOME power, but maybe not enough to meet demand.
When the dash lights come on, will they stay on indefinitely, at least until you add more load, like trying to crank the engine over?
When the dash lights go out, when do they come back on? When you let the key return from “start” to just “on” or what?
If you dont perform these simple tests, folks can’t help you. If these tests are beyond your skill or experience, you might be in over your head and need to call in someone who could get some answers for us.
BTW, a fusible link is either good or open. There is no in between. Just like a glass fuse-it either carries full power or it doesn’t carry any at all.
A poor, loose or corroded connection, on the other hand, can and will carry SOME power, but maybe not enough to meet demand.
jaxs
Elite Member
Absoluly correct,I couldn't have stated it any better.
Assuming you’ve eliminated any wiring or ground fault issues - The symptoms sound very similar to my 1010 earlier this summer. On mine it was more obvious since eventually I could smell electrical burn from the starter when the panel lights dimmed.
I got a new starter on Ebay for about $120 Cdn including shipping. The same starter is used in some Nissan vehicles (older Maxima’s and Altima’s, 280z) so no need to get from Massey.
I got a new starter on Ebay for about $120 Cdn including shipping. The same starter is used in some Nissan vehicles (older Maxima’s and Altima’s, 280z) so no need to get from Massey.
Any tips on getting the old starter out?
Worked for hours today trying to back out the flange bolts a quarter turn at a time. Got the starter to wiggle a little but cant get the bolts out.
Try to remove at least the lower bolt. You could tap it back using a block of wood and a hammer. Then tap it out using a similar sized bolt and light hammer taps. It’s held in place by the just the two bolts but also has the gear against the flywheel. So you need to remove at least one bolt so that you can wiggle it back.
Here’s a pic with the bottom bolt removed (and years of dirt from behind the old starter).
For my replacement starter the flange was thicker but the old bolts were just barely long enough to work.
