MF 1010 electrical help? No Start mystery

[gerry100]

1990(?) MF 1010awd. 570hrs

Tractor started with 9yo battery once after sitting for months. Few days later , completely dead. no dash lights for glow etc.

New battery, Dash lights light up bright and then fade then dead. Thinking it was a bad unit I returned and exchaAnnged. Same results.

So it lights up, dims and dies?

Something changed after the first start that seems electrical

Any ideas or suggestions much appreciated

 

[Roadworthy]

Given that I'm unfamiliar with your situation my first suggestion is to clean the battery terminals as well as the clamps on them. Tighten the clamps securely. Follow the ground wire to the point where it attaches to the frame. clean that really well and be sure it's tight. When that is all done we can start troubleshooting - if you still have a problem.

 

[gerry100]

Given that I'm unfamiliar with your situation my first suggestion is to clean the battery terminals as well as the clamps on them. Tighten the clamps securely. Follow the ground wire to the point where it attaches to the frame. clean that really well and be sure it's tight. When that is all done we can start troubleshooting - if you still have a problem.

Thanks. Doing that shortly. I'll be back

 

[jaxs]

Given that I'm unfamiliar with your situation my first suggestion is to clean the battery terminals as well as the clamps on them. Tighten the clamps securely. Follow the ground wire to the point where it attaches to the frame. clean that really well and be sure it's tight. When that is all done we can start troubleshooting - if you still have a problem.

:thumbsup: And if that doesn't make a difference,clean the hot cable main connection.

Thanks. Doing that shortly. I'll be back

:checkmark:

 

[r porter]

if i remember right the ground attaches beside the radiator and gets a lot of rust.

 

[gerry100]

:thumbsup: And if that doesn't make a difference,clean the hot cable main connection.


:checkmark:

Hot cable?

 

[gerry100]

Left the switch on an the glow and start indictors were on, turned the key and they dimmed and went out.

Neg ground and terminals cleaned( dremeled away rust). Dim dash lights and no crank as before

Something here seems time/temp related? Never dealt with a fusible link before? Is that it?

 

[radios1]

Hot cable?

the + terminals..

 

[lpakiz]

If you have a volt meter, hook it directly to the + and - posts of the battery. Not to the connector, the clamp, not any part of it but the POST itself. Might take an extra set of hands.
Note the reading, Then hit the starter. If the voltage reading stays above 12.00 or thereabouts, and the dash lights go out or dim, itç—´ not the battery, itç—´ a connection somewhere, or a super heavy drain, in which case smoke or heat should show up somewhere.
If the battery works fine the first time, then is dead subsequently, monitor it with the voltmeter to be sure it is not being drained by a small, unknown parasitic load.
If you suspect a slow parasitic drain, unhook one cable from the battery, then use a small test light (not a voltmeter) inserted in series between the battery post and the (now disconnected) cable. The idea is to force leaking current to flow thru a small filament, which will then glow from dim orange to full brightness, depending on the leak. Just turning on your dome light in this arrangement will show up as a dimly lit filament. If you turn on headlights or hit the starter, the test filament will glow full brightness, but your starter or lights will not work under these test conditions.

 

[jaxs]

If you have a volt meter, hook it directly to the + and - posts of the battery. Not to the connector, the clamp, not any part of it but the POST itself. Might take an extra set of hands.
Note the reading, Then hit the starter. If the voltage reading stays above 12.00 or thereabouts, and the dash lights go out or dim, itç—´ not the battery, itç—´ a connection somewhere, or a super heavy drain, in which case smoke or heat should show up somewhere.
If the battery works fine the first time, then is dead subsequently, monitor it with the voltmeter to be sure it is not being drained by a small, unknown parasitic load.
If you suspect a slow parasitic drain, unhook one cable from the battery, then use a small test light (not a voltmeter) inserted in series between the battery post and the (now disconnected) cable. The idea is to force leaking current to flow thru a small filament, which will then glow from dim orange to full brightness, depending on the leak. Just turning on your dome light in this arrangement will show up as a dimly lit filament. If you turn on headlights or hit the starter, the test filament will glow full brightness, but your starter or lights will not work under these test conditions.

What you suggest works but just for clarity,will the volt meter just used for previous test not work?