Meyer Plow....mating to JD 300cx

[foggy1111]

Thanks to the guys that have already made similar builds and posted 'em here.

Here is the frame I had made to attach to my 7' Meyer plow. I'm having brackets made to allow the plow connections to be about 12" behind the frame (toward the tractor) in order to keep it short and not have so much leverage on the loader. I should get a full blade pivot to both left and right.

We put some 4" tubes in place to position the plow brackets and frame....and get a look at the set-up....so I snapped a pic. I hope to have this welded up in the next few days. I'll get some better pics as the build develops.

I think I should get about 12" of float out of this set up before the plow would push upward on my mount. I'm going to add hydraulic cylinders after I get the welding completed.

Hopefully the snow holds off until I get this done....but I hate waiting till the last minute. :laughing:

After the plow build....I plan to make a removable shrub bucket to fit onto this same frame.

 

[JB4310]

I like the idea of moving it rearward as much as possible, I'm not a big fan of loader mounted plows in general, but many here on tbn are very happy with there's.

You mentioned float, does that mean you will use the chain on the plow to hold up the front? You might consider making the mount rigid and use the float feature on the loader valve for normal plowing, that way you would have down pressure capability. That seems to be a feature that those with loader mounted plows appreciate.

I went with a custom made frame mount, it does require removal of the whole loader, but it swaps pretty quickly and the frame mount stays on even with the loader on with no interference. I use the loaders stick for the plows functions.

JB

 

[foggy1111]

^ Nice job on your plow mount. I considered many of the different ways to mount a plow, and they all have merit. I do not want to float my loader as my ground is pretty rough (logging trails) and I feel it's a bit safer to float the plow. My "cutting edge" is also going to include a 2" diameter steel tube for floating the plow.

I do intend to use the chain to lift the plow. With my design...I could always make the plow rigid and float the loader if I chose to do so.

I do like your frame mount and that would likely be the best for the tractor.....but I chose the loader mount so I can quickly re-attach my bucket or grapple for downed trees and other work on my deer property. For me snow plowing is an occasional thing.

Everyone has a little different opinion in this area....and many differing viewpoints. In my case....I want the QC feature of the loader and the frame to mount a shrub bucket. I figured floating the plow to be a bit more forgiving on rough land - like mine. I also plan to add a cross-over valve. If I were doing pavement I would lean toward floating the loader.

Several trade-offs here......Kinda 6 for one.....half for the other kinda deal.

 

[JB4310]

Everyone has a little different opinion in this area....and many differing viewpoints. In my case....I want the QC feature of the loader and the frame to mount a shrub bucket. I figured floating the plow to be a bit more forgiving on rough land - like mine. I also plan to add a cross-over valve. If I were doing pavement I would lean toward floating the loader.

Several trade-offs here......Kinda 6 for one.....half for the other kinda deal.

I agree, there is no one "best way" for everyone or all situations.

JB

 

[Rockgod]

Thanks to the guys that have already made similar builds and posted 'em here.

Here is the frame I had made to attach to my 7' Meyer plow. I'm having brackets made to allow the plow connections to be about 12" behind the frame (toward the tractor) in order to keep it short and not have so much leverage on the loader. I should get a full blade pivot to both left and right.

We put some 4" tubes in place to position the plow brackets and frame....and get a look at the set-up....so I snapped a pic. I hope to have this welded up in the next few days. I'll get some better pics as the build develops.

I think I should get about 12" of float out of this set up before the plow would push upward on my mount. I'm going to add hydraulic cylinders after I get the welding completed.

Hopefully the snow holds off until I get this done....but I hate waiting till the last minute. :laughing:

After the plow build....I plan to make a removable shrub bucket to fit onto this same frame.

Very cool foggy, wish I could do something like that. :thumbsup:

 

[foggy1111]

Very cool foggy, wish I could do something like that. :thumbsup:

Al - Well I wish I could do the work myself too. Fact of the matter is....that I sold my manufacturing company a few years back....and along with it went my good welder, lathes, milling machine, and most of my tools and the ability to do much of this stuff for myself. (Even had a prototype machinist and maintenance man to help me when I was stuck!) Now I draw plans and make prints from articles here....and then give these details to the welding shop to do the work. :laughing:

I still have a maintenance stick welder....but sometimes I want to have my old shop and those capabilities back again.....cause I love to "putter" with this stuff. But I get along this way......and (most often) I get better work done than if I did it myself. Prolly cheaper too. :thumbsup:

Now, it just doesn't always happen on my timetable. I have a friend with a welding shop that understands how I like things done. That helps allot.

 

[Red Horse]

Thanks to the guys that have already made similar builds and posted 'em here.

Here is the frame I had made to attach to my 7' Meyer plow. I'm having brackets made to allow the plow connections to be about 12" behind the frame (toward the tractor) in order to keep it short and not have so much leverage on the loader. I should get a full blade pivot to both left and right.

We put some 4" tubes in place to position the plow brackets and frame....and get a look at the set-up....so I snapped a pic. I hope to have this welded up in the next few days. I'll get some better pics as the build develops.

I think I should get about 12" of float out of this set up before the plow would push upward on my mount. I'm going to add hydraulic cylinders after I get the welding completed.

Hopefully the snow holds off until I get this done....but I hate waiting till the last minute. :laughing:

After the plow build....I plan to make a removable shrub bucket to fit onto this same frame.

Foggy-you sent me a pvt message but I'm not smart enough to get pix out of my photo file to attach. Give me your email address if you want and I will send it to you-very similar to what you did however I have the ears attached to the front of the bracket. does make for a lot of overhang but on the plus side, I pull up to overhead doors with the blade straight, then raise the loader whiole dropping the dump valve. Weight of the plow assembly then swings back pulling snow from door.

 

[foggy1111]

Made some more progress on getting the custom-made frame that attaches to my 300CX loader mated to my plow. The wood blocks show approximately how the plow and loader will be oriented on the tractor. Still some stuff to do....but the hard part is done.

The plow pivots on the mounts about 12" behind the attachment points on the loader. This set-up keeps minimizes the leverage on the loader and is more compact. (hope it works as planned)

 

[JB4310]

Made some more progress on getting the custom-made frame that attaches to my 300CX loader mated to my plow. The wood blocks show approximately how the plow and loader will be oriented on the tractor. Still some stuff to do....but the hard part is done.

The plow pivots on the mounts about 12" behind the attachment points on the loader. This set-up keeps minimizes the leverage on the loader and is more compact. (hope it works as planned)

Looks great! heavy duty and compact.

How will the front of the a frame be supported, Rigid or with chain?

That rearward frame part will clear everything on tractor and loader.

JB.

 

[Red Horse]

Made some more progress on getting the custom-made frame that attaches to my 300CX loader mated to my plow. The wood blocks show approximately how the plow and loader will be oriented on the tractor. Still some stuff to do....but the hard part is done.

The plow pivots on the mounts about 12" behind the attachment points on the loader. This set-up keeps minimizes the leverage on the loader and is more compact. (hope it works as planned)

Foggy-very nice job-same question as JB4310-how much room do you have between plow frame and say grill guard?-What are specs on that box tube?

 

[foggy1111]

I made the frame from a drawing here on TBN. The thread was from the DIY thread on a shrub bucket (do a search for "shrub" and look for a member by the name of CHAMPY - it's his great frame design).

I may make the shrub bucket next spring to bolt onto this same frame (therefore it's a bit overbuilt). I suppose it could also work for a set of forks or other front implement.

I will lift / support the plow with a chain......but I believe I also can apply down-pressure via the loader's curl function (if I want to). It appears like I will get about 15" of plow float out of my chain....but I need to get things mounted on my tractor to know for sure.

The pic I took is a bit confusing due to the boards holding the frame(s) in place. In another week or so I will get things mounted to my tractor - which is 200 miles away.

I also plan to use a slit pipe on the cutting edge to use for a skid....in lieu of skid shoes. More to come......

OH....and I have ample clearance between the plow frames and any tractor parts. I am going to be a bit close on my loaders "timing bar".....but I think I have a few inches to spare anywhere else. When you see it mounted it will make a bit more sense.

 

[JB4310]

Real nice construction/ welds. MAYBE some gussets for the plow pin tabs, if they are just butt welded ?

JB.

 

[foggy1111]

Real nice construction/ welds. MAYBE some gussets for the plow pin tabs, if they are just butt welded ?

JB.

Those tabs are welded to an upside-down C-channel.....and the end of the channel is closed up with a 3/8" x 2 bar (which makes it look like a tube in the pic). Thus those tabs get good support.....you just cant see it in the pics.

I wish I could take credit for the welding.....a local welding shop is doing that and I'm just providing a plan and a bit of assistance.

 

[RoyJackson]

Very nice job, Foggy!! And you too, JB4310!!!

Foggy, I know what you mean about missing your shop. I've worked in a number of job/fabrication shops over the years. I surely miss access to the tools.

 

[foggy1111]

Very nice job, Foggy!! And you too, JB4310!!!

Foggy, I know what you mean about missing your shop. I've worked in a number of job/fabrication shops over the years. I surely miss access to the tools.

Roy....I can do quite a bit of my own work....but I lack the HD tools and welding equipment these days.....and what I do have for stuff is scattered between my deer land, my home and a cabin I own.

I sure do miss having the abilities I used to have in order to fab this stuff up. Sometimes when you go into a project it's hard to know how your going to address some of the issues that come along....and it's doubly hard to convey those half-baked ideas to other folks. I have drawn LOTS of mechanical prints in my previous work.....so that makes it a bit easier to convey ideas.

The shop I work with has pretty talented operators.....and they tell me I'm one of the few that supplies tolerances to my drawings (on critical areas) ......and I keep those tolerances "real world". :laughing:

 

[foggy1111]

FINALLY! I got my plow mounted yesterday. I had to make a little tweak (ground 1/4" off the top) to the JD pins to get the mount to work right....but nothing too serious. Its hard to make stuff fit right when your build and the tractor are 200 miles apart.

I also had to add two short sections of 2x2" tubes so the channels would not rest on the plow cylinders. I welded them on the plow frame as shown in pic 2. I may have been able to cut off a section of the channels IF I had a torch at my land. I do have a stick welder....so adding the tubes was easy to do.

All in all.....I think this plan worked out GREAT! Thanks to Champy for a good reference on a frame build....and to Bob's photos for the set-back, floating plow pics. Lots of good reference material from many other posters too. THANKS!! I hope it works as good as I think it will.

With the plow mount points set 12" back.....I JUST clear the frame with about two inches to spare when the plow is fully angled to left or right and the frame is tipped to a "worse case senario".....as in pic 4.

 

[RoyJackson]

FINALLY! I got my plow mounted yesterday. I had to make a little tweak (ground 1/4" off the top) to the JD pins to get the mount to work right....but nothing too serious. Its hard to make stuff fit right when your build and the tractor are 200 miles apart.

I also had to add two short sections of 2x2" tubes so the channels would not rest on the plow cylinders. I welded them on the plow frame as shown in pic 2. I may have been able to cut off a section of the channels IF I had a torch at my land. I do have a stick welder....so adding the tubes was easy to do.

All in all.....I think this plan worked out GREAT! Thanks to Champy for a good reference on a frame build....and to Bob's photos for the set-back, floating plow pics. Lots of good reference material from many other posters too. THANKS!! I hope it works as good as I think it will.

Looks really good, Foggy!!

I was very curious how the frame extended as far back would clear the tractor's weight box...plenty of room though!
And, one advantage I see...less leverage on the loader frame...less possibility of racking the frame.

 

[foggy1111]

Looks really good, Foggy!!

I was very curious how the frame extended as far back would clear the tractor's weight box...plenty of room though!
And, one advantage I see...less leverage on the loader frame...less possibility of racking the frame.

Thanks Roy. Yep....clearance on the tractor or grill guard is a non-event with this build. Plenty of room. I just had enough room (1/2" to spare) between the gussets and the loader timing bar. Several dimentions were a little guess-work and from pictures or sketches (and a bit of luck never hurts).

One thing I would do over.....is to make the tube on the blade edge to about 2.5" to 3" diameter. Mine is about 1 1/2" diameter....and I think I am going to pull allot of sandy soil with the snow if the ground is not frozen. This smaller size tube may be better for hard-surface roads. I dont plan for any other plow skids.....so I am uncertain if the pipe on the blade edge will work. Time will tell.

 

[JB4310]

Yup, looks great.

Another important advantage with the rearward mounting is that the entire A-frame is lower than the adaptor frame. this keeps the lower loader arms up higher.
Some of theses I've seen have the plow's A-frame attached to the adaptor frame/plate about even with or higher than the implement carriers of the loader. Since it is critical that the A-frame is level or parallel to the ground to allow the plow to be angled and have the cutting edge make contact with the ground throughout the full angling motion.

With the A-frame mounted higher than the carriers it puts the carriers dangerously close to the ground, as you need to lower them so much to level the A-frame, which could possibly cause them to be damaged by impacts.

So this set up with the rearward mounting has several advantages.

JB

 

[KennyG]

This is something I'd like to do in the future. I'm not sure what the hydraulic system setup is. Do you still have the full raise and curl operating on the loader? If so, do you have another hydraulic circuit for the angle cylinders? I was wondering if you need curl adjustment to change the blade tilt on this setup or if you can use the curl connections to angle the blade.