Mckee Snowlander 320 Parts manual
- Thread starter TonyUT
- Start date
- Views: 22187
Re: L321 Parts
Here is the Kabota L221/321 PDF
From: Centery Equipment Logan, UT
View attachment L321 Kabota.pdf
Here is the Kabota L221/321 PDF
From: Centery Equipment Logan, UT
View attachment L321 Kabota.pdf
Dave M7040
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2012
- Messages
- 2,757
- Location
- Williamstown Ontario Canada
- Tractor
- Kubota M7040 Nuffield 465
Re: L321 Parts
Tony
I think you are making this search for parts too hard for yourself.
Am I correct in thinking the parts you are looking for are #37 or #45 and #41 as shown on the McKee 220 parts diagram?
These are standard key stock.
The #45 one is 1/4" x 1/4" piece that is 1-5/8" long
The #37 one is 3/16" x 3/16" piece that is 1" long
The image below shows what key stock fastenal sells. You buy a piece 12" long and cut off what you need
#41 is a standard socket head set screw 5/16" NC (national course thread) 3/8" long
Again a Fastenal image
The key stock and set screw would be available in any place that sells bearings or repairs electric motors.
McKee was just buying parts and assembling them. They are off the shelf stuff.
Buy some loctite to secure the set screw. If the set screw area is oily or greasy buy a spray can of brake clean as the loctite will not secure on a greasy surface.
.
If you dont have a fine metal file buying one would help you remove any burs in the keyway of smooth the ends of the piece of key you cut.
These blowers have the gears just running in the open and not in a metal box full of oil they are so unsophisticated.
If you spend $30 including the loctite, brake clean and file, the parts costs are peanuts
You will need a hack saw or angle grinder to cut the key stock to the right length.
Dave M7040
Tony
I think you are making this search for parts too hard for yourself.
Am I correct in thinking the parts you are looking for are #37 or #45 and #41 as shown on the McKee 220 parts diagram?
These are standard key stock.
The #45 one is 1/4" x 1/4" piece that is 1-5/8" long
The #37 one is 3/16" x 3/16" piece that is 1" long
The image below shows what key stock fastenal sells. You buy a piece 12" long and cut off what you need
#41 is a standard socket head set screw 5/16" NC (national course thread) 3/8" long
Again a Fastenal image
The key stock and set screw would be available in any place that sells bearings or repairs electric motors.
McKee was just buying parts and assembling them. They are off the shelf stuff.
Buy some loctite to secure the set screw. If the set screw area is oily or greasy buy a spray can of brake clean as the loctite will not secure on a greasy surface.
.
If you dont have a fine metal file buying one would help you remove any burs in the keyway of smooth the ends of the piece of key you cut.
These blowers have the gears just running in the open and not in a metal box full of oil they are so unsophisticated.
If you spend $30 including the loctite, brake clean and file, the parts costs are peanuts
You will need a hack saw or angle grinder to cut the key stock to the right length.
Dave M7040
Re: L321 Parts
This is my first tractor, and Blower. I am finding out this is "simple stuff". but am easily confused where the place on the shaft for the key starts shallow and goes deep. I am guessing I have a decent implement store for parts, I can get anything for my tractor because I have the 5" book breaking down every part. When I go in there with measurements and ask for what I need they act frustrated because they cannot find the parts breakdown. even with the 220 breakdown they act like I should not be buying parts for something they cannot verify every component for.
Some old set screws are stripped at the top and unsure how to remove them.
This is my first tractor, and Blower. I am finding out this is "simple stuff". but am easily confused where the place on the shaft for the key starts shallow and goes deep. I am guessing I have a decent implement store for parts, I can get anything for my tractor because I have the 5" book breaking down every part. When I go in there with measurements and ask for what I need they act frustrated because they cannot find the parts breakdown. even with the 220 breakdown they act like I should not be buying parts for something they cannot verify every component for.
Some old set screws are stripped at the top and unsure how to remove them.
Dave M7040
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2012
- Messages
- 2,757
- Location
- Williamstown Ontario Canada
- Tractor
- Kubota M7040 Nuffield 465
Tony
Using the numbers in the illustration, you need to tell me which key is missing and what set screws are stripped.
If it is gear #40 with the missing key but that seems unlikely that it could fall out. Its key slot is not open on either end so how would the key piece fall out..
If it is #40, then to replace the key, shaft #36 has to be removed along with its gear #39.
With shaft #36 out of the way, then you can slide the gear #40 forward and place a piece of square key stock in the slot which has the curved front end (and likely back end as well). Just don’t go unto the curved front end with the piece you cut. The curve is just from the manufacturing process and is not important.
Then slide the gear back into position over the square key piece and tighten the set screw.
The challenge is to get gear #39 out of the way so you can slide gear #40 forward to install the key.
If it is gear #39 with the missing key, you might be able to slide a piece of key into the slot in its shaft by working between the two gears. To me this is more likely the missing key as it has an end open.
Another thought would be to remove the pto shaft from the blower and try and slide shaft #42 forward with the fan still attached to its end.
I will give some thought to how to deal with the stripped set screw once I know which one it is.
What tools etc do you have to work with? Angle grinder, torch, welder, ......
McKee has been out of business for years so no one is going to have the parts you need by part number which are off the self items in any serious hardware store.
Looking forward to hearing back from you.
Dave M7040
Using the numbers in the illustration, you need to tell me which key is missing and what set screws are stripped.
If it is gear #40 with the missing key but that seems unlikely that it could fall out. Its key slot is not open on either end so how would the key piece fall out..
If it is #40, then to replace the key, shaft #36 has to be removed along with its gear #39.
With shaft #36 out of the way, then you can slide the gear #40 forward and place a piece of square key stock in the slot which has the curved front end (and likely back end as well). Just don’t go unto the curved front end with the piece you cut. The curve is just from the manufacturing process and is not important.
Then slide the gear back into position over the square key piece and tighten the set screw.
The challenge is to get gear #39 out of the way so you can slide gear #40 forward to install the key.
If it is gear #39 with the missing key, you might be able to slide a piece of key into the slot in its shaft by working between the two gears. To me this is more likely the missing key as it has an end open.
Another thought would be to remove the pto shaft from the blower and try and slide shaft #42 forward with the fan still attached to its end.
I will give some thought to how to deal with the stripped set screw once I know which one it is.
What tools etc do you have to work with? Angle grinder, torch, welder, ......
McKee has been out of business for years so no one is going to have the parts you need by part number which are off the self items in any serious hardware store.
Looking forward to hearing back from you.
Dave M7040
Dave M7040
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2012
- Messages
- 2,757
- Location
- Williamstown Ontario Canada
- Tractor
- Kubota M7040 Nuffield 465
Tony
Re stripped socket set screws, my recommendation is to buy this kit of different sized tools in a plastic box from Amazon.
Amazon.com: IRWIN 53228 15 piece Multi Spline Extractor Set: Home Improvement
It is about $40. There are cheaper ones for certain but the last thing you want is a broken extractor tool broken itself inside one of your socket screws.
Having a kit of different sizes allows you to get the best fit.
The extractor works by having a series of left hand thread spiral ridges in it. As you turn it in the direction to remove the socket set screw the extractor ridges dig into the set screw and if all goes well the set screw comes out.
This image is of a much larger one than you need but it shows the detail of the ridges.
It would be worthwhile to buy a high quality set of SAE (american size) Allen wrenches to tighten and loosen socket screws. Again, using a cheap Allen wrench just ends up with a rounded of socket like you have now.
Dave M7040
Re stripped socket set screws, my recommendation is to buy this kit of different sized tools in a plastic box from Amazon.
Amazon.com: IRWIN 53228 15 piece Multi Spline Extractor Set: Home Improvement
It is about $40. There are cheaper ones for certain but the last thing you want is a broken extractor tool broken itself inside one of your socket screws.
Having a kit of different sizes allows you to get the best fit.
The extractor works by having a series of left hand thread spiral ridges in it. As you turn it in the direction to remove the socket set screw the extractor ridges dig into the set screw and if all goes well the set screw comes out.
This image is of a much larger one than you need but it shows the detail of the ridges.
It would be worthwhile to buy a high quality set of SAE (american size) Allen wrenches to tighten and loosen socket screws. Again, using a cheap Allen wrench just ends up with a rounded of socket like you have now.
Dave M7040
pmsmechanic
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2013
- Messages
- 4,202
- Location
- Southern Alberta, Canada
- Tractor
- 4410 and F-935 John Deere, MF 245
Several thoughts here.
Are the set screws stripped or is the picture a picture of the hole where you use the punch and hammer to turn the lock collar?
I would not use lock tight on a set screw. It's just too much of a pain to get it out later if you need to. Before you put an allen wrench into a set screw take a hammer and a punch and give a good pound on the lock collar about the width of the set screw away from the set screw on each side of the set screw. If you have room, do it right where the treads are from the end too. You should be able to then turn the set screw out with very little effort. This also works for stripped allen set screws. The set screw will be loose enough so that if you put sideways pressure on the allen wrench while turning it should come out. Make sure the set screw allen hole is clean so the allen wrench can go all the way in.
I consider using the set screw to hold the gear in place a losing battle. There is just too much force on the gear. Istead lock tight the bearing and lock collar into place and fit a spacer onto the shaft between the gear and the lock collar. You still need to keep the set screw on the gear tight so it doesn't wear on the shaft but at least if the set screw comes loose it won't push the gears away from each other.
Are the set screws stripped or is the picture a picture of the hole where you use the punch and hammer to turn the lock collar?
I would not use lock tight on a set screw. It's just too much of a pain to get it out later if you need to. Before you put an allen wrench into a set screw take a hammer and a punch and give a good pound on the lock collar about the width of the set screw away from the set screw on each side of the set screw. If you have room, do it right where the treads are from the end too. You should be able to then turn the set screw out with very little effort. This also works for stripped allen set screws. The set screw will be loose enough so that if you put sideways pressure on the allen wrench while turning it should come out. Make sure the set screw allen hole is clean so the allen wrench can go all the way in.
I consider using the set screw to hold the gear in place a losing battle. There is just too much force on the gear. Istead lock tight the bearing and lock collar into place and fit a spacer onto the shaft between the gear and the lock collar. You still need to keep the set screw on the gear tight so it doesn't wear on the shaft but at least if the set screw comes loose it won't push the gears away from each other.
Dave M7040
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2012
- Messages
- 2,757
- Location
- Williamstown Ontario Canada
- Tractor
- Kubota M7040 Nuffield 465
Tony says he lost a set screw and key and further, in trying to take the blower apart, he found set screws internal sockets stripped.. The Canadian made blowers date back to the 1970's and most are still running with the open gears without problems even with owners who run them at pto speed of close to 800 rpm with no set screws coming loose and the gears running dry i.e. no lube.
Tony's biggest problem is he cannot get it apart.
The collars are an integral part of the flangette bearing as shown in the photo.
I expect the set screws he cannot get out are the ones in the gears themselves. Those gears typically run unlubed and are very hard. The grease you see on Tony's gears is unusual. Pounding on a gear to loosen a set screw might crack it. The collar integral with the flangette spherical bearing is much harder than a typical locking collar with set screw.
I assume the collar you are referring to with your suggested technique with the punch is like the one piece in the photo below.
If a spacer was really necessary a split one could be added with minimal effort but the many blowers I have know since the 70's have run without them.
Dave M7040
pmsmechanic
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2013
- Messages
- 4,202
- Location
- Southern Alberta, Canada
- Tractor
- 4410 and F-935 John Deere, MF 245
I used the word "pound" for lack of a better term. What happens with my method is that the end of the set screw gets pushed into the shaft and therefore loosens the set screw. This will work on the gear too as long as you don't "pound" the gear hard enough to crack it. All you want to do is push the set screw into the shaft a bit. "Pounding" from the end if you have room loosens the threads of the set screw if they are slightly seized which is common.
Many farmers in this area have thanked me for developing this method of removing set screws. It makes changing a bearing a few minutes job instead of getting out the cutting torch or cut off saw so that you can remove the bearing. Quite often the lock collar can be reused after doing the punch and hammer method on set screws.
Many farmers in this area have thanked me for developing this method of removing set screws. It makes changing a bearing a few minutes job instead of getting out the cutting torch or cut off saw so that you can remove the bearing. Quite often the lock collar can be reused after doing the punch and hammer method on set screws.
