Max landplane for ATV?

[NS Gearhead]

I've got a couple options as far as material goes for my landplane build.

First; I've got an old zamboni blade. It's probably 6"X1/2", 6' long.

I've got some 4"X1/4" pipe I'm going to use for the side to sides,

and 3X1/4" angle as the blade support.

So, I've got two options for the "runners"; 4" wide X 10" tall, 1/4" I beam, or 4" tall X 1.5" wide, 1/4" C channel. Kind of oposite extreems, but both free.

Secondly; how wide should I go? I'm thinking 48"? 36" long... maybe only 24"? This will be for driveway and trail, and I'd like the option to tow it with the atv, Tracker, or Jeep. I'm kind of worried the C channel won't provide enough height for the side to side pipes.... but the I beam's heavy... wich might make it too much for the fourwheeler. I suppose most of the drag will be blade depth thought... Thoughts?

Should I bite the bullet and buy something like 4" wide, 8" tall C channel? If I'm only going 2' long, I'd only need 4', wich shouldn't break the bank.

 

[3930dave]

What size ATV do you have, engine displacement wise ?

What is it tow-rated for ?

Rgds, D.

 

[NS Gearhead]

Hmm, good point. I've currently got a Arctic Cat 425... but it's a loaner. I do plan to get my own at some point, and it's a safe bet it'll be in the 450+ range. Should be in the 1,000lb range... but the weight of the plane is not a difinitive indicator of how much forse will be required to pull it. I'm guessing with the material I already have and my two options above I'm probably going to be in the 250lbs range, give or take 50lbs... so I suppose the difference between the I beam or C channel won't make that much difference. Hmmm. Still interested in opinions.

 

[3930dave]

I'm not an ATV guy, but the feedback I've heard from guys I trust is plowing snow goes much nicer with a 650+ machine. Not saying a 425 won't work, but I'll leave the rest of the machine comments to knowledgeable utility ATV'ers......

I'd want to know the factory tow rating on the ATV, before sizing a plane. Keep in mind that the tow rating on an ATV is likely for a rolling load - something on wheels or runners. So, if it was mine, I'd be derating the tow limit somewhat, due to the plane being a ground engaging tool. How much to derate ? Need some experienced ATV wrenchers in here for that % guesstimate.

I'd collect your typical local soil in a 5 gal. pail and weigh it - and adjust what you are weighing for moisture - add water for your max working conditions. For something as small as an ATV, regional soil conditions are going to be a big factor - nice if you are moving mostly sandy soil.

So, with that "5 gallon" weight established, you can go about sizing the plane box for what you deem as a reasonble soil load.

That's the process I'd follow, sorry I don't have more exact #'s to pass along.....

One more thing.... I'd price out drive-train parts for the ATV in question, ahead of time.

Obviously, the operator is a big variable.... but there are plenty of threads on here of guys breaking stuff on SCUTs etc, when doing heavy ground work.

Rgds, D.

 

[lilranch2001]

I do not think there is enough frame under an ATV to attach a land plane to it, and not break the frame.
One big root or rock and O CHIT! :duh:
How are you going to lift the land plane?

This just seems to be a bad idea in my mind......
I have never heard of anyone doing this before, have you searched this site to see if anyone has?

And doing it with a loaner idea is just bad mojo

 

[jenkinsph]

If you have a larger and heavier vehicle that might work much better.

 

[NS Gearhead]

If you have a larger and heavier vehicle that might work much better.

2200lbs Tracker, and 5200lb Jeep... but I just thought it would be nice to be able to use the atv as well.

The ATV's frame and drivetrain will hold up... it'll either pull it or spin.

This'll just be used on class A gravel.

 

[bcp]

Here's one:

Bruce

 

[NS Gearhead]

How are you going to lift the land plane?

Dual trailer jacks.

 

[94BULLITT]

This guy is pulling a 5' drag but it look pretty light so that is how he get by with it being that wide.

I think I would build one 42'' wide.

 

[bcp]

This guy is pulling a 5' drag but it look pretty light so that is how he get by with it being that wide.


I think I would build one 42'' wide.

And with only one blade, it doesn't try to drag a ton of gravel with it, as sometimes happens with a double bladed grader.

From:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...eway-scraper-driveway-grader.html#post3350043



Bruce

 

[NS Gearhead]

I guess I'll just build the thing and if it don't work behind the atv it's no biggie. I do have the Jeep up for sale, so that was kind of a consern...

For the time being, I've got attachment points on the center and both sides of the Jeep so I'll have options as to what side of my "track" it grades.

One last question before I start a build thread; what angle should I set the blade? That one posted earlyer towed with the atv seemed very steep. I was thinking 45deg I'm gonna do my best to make the depth adjustable from 1/4" to 1"

 

[NS Gearhead]

Oh also; is there any need to taper the rear of the runners? Obviously the front needs to be in order to ride up on the gravel instead of digging in... but should I do the rears also?

 

[Oliver1655]

When you are mentioning angle of blade, are you referring to side to side or the vertical angle for digging? If side to side, for pulling behind an ATV I would have go straight across. It will track much easier for you, especially being lighter weight. The ones which are angles from side to side at designed to pull material from the side of the road to the center of the road which will help to maintain the crown.

As far as the vertical angle, will your cutting edge be curved or straight? A 75-80 degree angle should work fine. I have seen every thing from 45 to 90 degree angles used. If you have a lot of angle, you will have a wider surface trying to make contact with the ground which will actually inhibit the cutting ability. This is why if you look at road graders/maintainers, you will find the blade almost vertical where the cutting edge meets to provide the narrower edge to dig in. Picture a 1/2" wide cutting edge for a vertical blade versus the 3/4" wide the same piece of metal would have in contact with the ground if at a 45 degree angle.

Design: 1 cutting edge which extend below the side runners 3/4 - 1" then spaced back 2-3 feet, another piece of angle iron going across about 1" above the ground at the same vertical angle as a secondary spreader / support for the sides. As far as width, make it about 4-6" wider than your ATV.

Have fun!

 

[TKSalty]

I have a 2005 Polaris UTV and I can tell you from experience that UTV/ATVs don't stand up to slow heavy pulling. I had to have my clutch rebuilt twice (about every three years), before I finally learned my lesson and bought a tractor.

 

[94BULLITT]

Oh also; is there any need to taper the rear of the runners? Obviously the front needs to be in order to ride up on the gravel instead of digging in... but should I do the rears also?

If you want to go backwards they need to be tapered. You could make the hitch on it so you can change sides and pull it forward or backwards.

 

[94BULLITT]

I have a 2005 Polaris UTV and I can tell you from experience that UTV/ATVs don't stand up to slow heavy pulling. I had to have my clutch rebuilt twice (about every three years), before I finally learned my lesson and bought a tractor.

I agree they really are not designed to be worked like that. Something like a Kubota RTV with a hydro trans would probably hold up pretty good.

 

[NS Gearhead]

If you want to go backwards they need to be tapered. You could make the hitch on it so you can change sides and pull it forward or backwards.

Hey I never thought of backing up with it! I always figgured I'd somehow need to lift it.

Ok, so if I'm not using the bike, I can build this thing bigger/ heavyer. I think 4' is still my max width just because of the material I have to work with... but what of length? 2', 3' or 4'? I know how they work, and wider/ longer will work better... but the trail has lots of sharp radius peeks and valleys that I don't really want to cut down and fill in.... so keeping it shorter may be better.

What do you guys think?

 

[NS Gearhead]

Here's what the blade looks like;


I was asking about vertical angle. I was thinking more along the lines of a shovel... if you try shoveling with it vertical it won't dig, but the more horizontal you get the better it cuts in.

 

[94BULLITT]

Hey I never thought of backing up with it! I always figgured I'd somehow need to lift it.

Ok, so if I'm not using the bike, I can build this thing bigger/ heavyer. I think 4' is still my max width just because of the material I have to work with... but what of length? 2', 3' or 4'? I know how they work, and wider/ longer will work better... but the trail has lots of sharp radius peeks and valleys that I don't really want to cut down and fill in.... so keeping it shorter may be better.

What do you guys think?

Do you have a garden tractor you can pull it with?

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