Matching Impletments to tractor

[nckennedy]

Wow thats a lot of weight. So you can have to much weight. Good to know that. so weights are primarly for plowing, our pulling other stuff like logs, etc.

 

[Verticaltrx]

Wow thats a lot of weight. So you can have to much weight. Good to know that. so weights are primarly for plowing, our pulling other stuff like logs, etc.

Wheel weights and fluid filled tires are the most effective area to add weight to increase traction while pulling. In your tractors owners manual there should be a section about weight/ballast and how to measure wheel slip. IIRC for most tractors you want about 10-15% wheel slip under full load.

 

[nckennedy]

Oh Ok thanks so much. You have been very helpful.

 

[Verticaltrx]

Not a problem, just be sure to post some pics if you get your setup up and running. :thumbsup:

 

[downslope]

Wow thats a lot of weight. So you can have to much weight. Good to know that. so weights are primarly for plowing, our pulling other stuff like logs, etc.

Remember, Vertical's tractor is 2WD so he needs more rear weight added than you do. Also you say you have radial tires which is good, I don't think he mentioned what his were. I have a friend who has a FWD 5425 with radials and it pulls fine with 2 rear wheel weights on each side. He can pull a 3 leg subsoiler using the FWA.

Another reason you need rear weight is when you start using the loader to lift different things and materials. If you are going to lift heavy items with the loader you might want to consider some type of ballast box in addition to the wheel weights. Be very careful with the loader if you don't have enough rear ballast.

Yes, you can have too much weight, especially on the front end of a FWA tractor. Like Vertical said, too much weight can be hard on the drive train, especailly the components of the front wheel assist which aren't as stout a the rear drivetrain. As I mentioned before you want to be sure the front end isn't doing the bulk of the pulling. Someone had mentioned trying to have a 40/60 weight distribution between the front/rear axles. Since you appear to be new at this I really think you should consider removing the loader for the first plowing experience if it's not too mcuh work. Of course if the tractor didn't come with any front weights and you don't want to purchase any, then you may have to leave the loader on. I have a New Holland FWA tractor just slightly smaller than yours and it pulls the older style JD 3x16 3-point plow just fine. But I did have to add 750 lbs of ballast to each rear tire and almost 600 lbs of front weights. I don't plow with the loader on.

Measure the center-to-center tread spacing on your front and rear axles. You will have to be in the neighborhood of 68"-72" for the plow to work depending on tire sizes and plow model. The operator's manual for the plow will give you the exact required distance from the center of the tractor to the inside edge of the rear tire, but I think if you stay in the range I mentioned it will work. If you have to make an adjustment, since the front tires are narrower than the rear you can either line up with the inside edge, outside edge or center of the rear tires. There are advantages to each. If you line up the outside edges you know that if the front wheel clears an object then the rear wheel should pass without hitting it also; I find this handy when trying to squeeze through a tight spot and you can't see the rear tires.. Just for plowing it's convenient if the inside edges line up because then you know both tires will be following the furrow wall in the same manner. Or just have the front tires track in the center of the rears.

Let us know what you end up with and how it works out. Good luck.

 

[nckennedy]

Wow this is getting complicate. Ha.
So when you speak of making adjustments, you are not thinking of changing the placement of the wheel on the axle? But you mean adjusting the steering so that rear wheel falls in the furrow either close tothe inside wall of the furrow or more toward the center? The proper placement of the rear wheel depends on the plow specis. You are suggesting between 68-72 inches. So you measure the distance between the centers of the two rear tires and same for front?

We decided to go ahead and purchase the JD 1000. It was more than we were planning to pay, but is newer and should pull easier and somthing to leave for the next generation.

 

[Verticaltrx]

So when you speak of making adjustments, you are not thinking of changing the placement of the wheel on the axle?

We decided to go ahead and purchase the JD 1000. It was more than we were planning to pay, but is newer and should pull easier and somthing to leave for the next generation.

He is referring to moving the wheels in or out on the axle, except in your case you change the placement of the wheel disks to change the width. There's a chance your tractor will be setup right as it is, you'll just have to measure.

The 1000 should serve you well. Hopefully it comes with an owners manual, it will clear up most of your questions. It will have in detail about the tire settings on your tractor, plow adjustments, etc. If you don't get one with the plow I'd go to the local Deere dealer and get a copy.

 

[downslope]

He is referring to moving the wheels in or out on the axle, except in your case you change the placement of the wheel disks to change the width. There's a chance your tractor will be setup right as it is, you'll just have to measure.

Yes, I was referring to moving the wheels in or out by repositioning the disks and/or rims. I may be wrong but I believe rack and pinion axles were an available option on the 5425. That sure would make it easier to adjust, plus they came with cast iron centers for more weight.

 

[nckennedy]

Ok, thats sound like a lot of work if we had to change the wheel position. I assume you only change the right one, if necessay? I think we did that on a JD A in when I was in high school. Long time ago. Ha! Anyway I think I better pick up a manual for the plow.

So that leads me to the next question, if you guys would care to comment. We also need to pick up a second disk harrow preferably 3 point mounted. I notice they come in several wideths. 7,8,9 feet, etc. What would be a comfortable size for the 5425?

 

[Verticaltrx]

Ok, thats sound like a lot of work if we had to change the wheel position. I assume you only change the right one, if necessay? I think we did that on a JD A in when I was in high school. Long time ago. Ha! Anyway I think I better pick up a manual for the plow.

So that leads me to the next question, if you guys would care to comment. We also need to pick up a second disk harrow preferably 3 point mounted. I notice they come in several wideths. 7,8,9 feet, etc. What would be a comfortable size for the 5425?

Depends on how heavy it is, but around 8' is what I'd be looking for in a 3pt. You could maybe handle a 9' if it wasn't too terribly heavy. We pulled a 13' pull-type tandem disc with the 2550, but only an 8' 3pt hitch type.

You want something with sealed bearings, heavy box frame, and easy adjustment of the gangs. Also look for one with notched discs instead of smooth, they are a little more aggressive and will break up the clods quicker after plowing.