Matching Impletments to tractor
- Thread starter nckennedy
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5030
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- Kubota M9000 HDCC3 M9000 HDC
'teflon should last about one trip down a field...or less.
I did, candidly, buy some 1/4" thick PTFE extruded sheet and lined the skid shoes on my hay mower and it's held up quite well and was much cheaper than the JD offered plastic.It's not yellow however, it's white.......
Verticaltrx
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- Kubota B3200/L2501/SVL65-2/U35-4, IH 454/656, Ford NAA, Case 1845C/480E/450C LGP
The 1600 is completely different from any of the older JD plows, AFAIK it shares nothing in common with the 416. I don't recall exactly when they started making the 1600, but ours is an '85 model. It has spring reset bottoms (not just trip, they reset by themselves), and huge trash clearance. It'll plow 10-12" deep in moderate trash. It's a very heavy plow as well, it takes a full 1100lb set of suitcase weights to keep the front of the 2550 on the ground. We used to use it a lot for breaking land that had grown up in saplings and thickets, after bush hogging of course. I think the 1600 line was one of the last standard moldboard plows JD made. Sometime in the early 90's they went to a switch plow design.
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
416A had "HSS" bottoms. 1600 will have "NU" style. Different contour on the moldboards for starters...Quite a bit different. Biggest improvement was adding a LOT of trash clearance.
There is an all plastic moldboard available. Never used 'em around here...too many rocks.
Verticaltrx
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Another model to look for the the 1000. It is an economy version of the 1600, and uses a standard trip mechanism instead of the spring reset bottoms. Just looked and the 1600 and 1000 came out in '83, so neither is going to be very easy to find as the popularity of moldboard plowing was quickly decreasing around that time. Most moldboard plows you'll find will be from the 50's-70's.
downslope
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I would say you must use liquid ballast in the rears unless you have radials, otherwise the front end will be be stressed doing too much of the pulling. With radials on the rear you still might want to add a few bolt-on rear wheel weights. Just try pullling the plow with the FWD disengaged and no rear ballast and you'll see what I mean.
Besides traction in FWD another reason for weighting the front is that you don't want it bouncing while plowing. A 3-point plow will never work correctly and keep an even depth if the front end bounces.
You haven't said how many acres you will be plowing each year. There's no need to max out the tractor if you can get the job done in a reasonable time frame with a 3x16 of either JD, Oliver/Ford or IH.