Massey Ferguson MF135 Multipower Transmission Oil Change

[johmarq]

Hi All,

I purchased a 1968 Massey Ferguson MF135 with Multipower recently,

The Multipower didn't work, the Hydraulics were very slow and jerky and wouldn't lift anything slightly heavy, They also fell

down when the PTo was off.

Sound familiar?

Anyway, after checking the Transmission Oil I discovered it looked like really Milky Coffee.

Time for new Hydraulic Oil.

I knew there must be filters that will need cleaning/Replacement,

The Main Hydraulic pump filter was easy to find info about but the Multipower Filter was a mystery. Was there one? where it it?

The Genuine Service Manual makes no reference and there's little to nothing on the Web/ TBN.

So I thought I'd just open it up and see.

Here is my write up with Pics to help others doing a MF135/Multipower Transmission Oil Change.


Start with the Tractor on level ground,(even better if you can have the left side slightly lower to aid oil draining)

Lower the Hydraulics.

Select neutral in the gearbox and High/low range selector, Make sure the brakes are fully applied and locked.

Chock the wheels front and back. ( you will be under the tractor so think Safety!)

Make sure the PTO selector is in Neutral. (important)


Remove the left hand mudguard/fender, the left foot board ( rear mount is bolted through the PTO Cover Plate) and the hand

brake rod if fitted





Remove the two drain plugs ( one in the rear just below the PTO selector, and the second one is just in front of the front foot

board mount) and let drain until all the old oil has drained. You will need two containers with a capacity of 30 liters/Back plug

and 20 Liters/ Front Plug





Remove the PTO Cover (and arm, they come off as one piece)

Take note of the selector arm position and the groove it mates with in the gearbox

You need to know where the selector arm goes when you reinstall the PTO Cover. If you don't the PTO selector won't work







Locate the Hydraulic Pump Filter ( just in front and below the PTO cover opening ( you can't miss it)



Notice the filter is lock wired from the top of the filter to a small hole ( This is to stop the filter undoing itself and destroying

your gearbox)

Carefully cut the wire (make sure you don't drop and pieces)

Now unscrew and remove the Filter. ( hold the whole filter, It's made of three parts and will come apart if your not careful)

Thoroughly clean the filter with degreaser and an air gun if you have one. (the filters are reusable, but if yours is damaged

replace it)Set it aside to reinstall later



No comes the Multipower part!!!

Just behind the main hydraulic pump filter is a small rectangular screen/Filter, this is the Multipower screen,

(It is behind a half circular baffle)

(Later MF135s have an external filter and this screen may not be present)



Gently bend one side of the Baffle to expose the Multipower screen



Mine was cover in crud as you can see

Now clean it with a spray degreaser and a clean rag.



I fitted a long nozzle from a Bug Spray can to make it easier to get a good pressure spray



Now bend the Baffle back into position ans do the other side, Carefully bend the other side of the baffle to expose the other

side of the Multipower screen



Clean that side as well, then reform the baffle back to it's original shape



Now give the bottom of the gearbox a good wipe out with a clean cloth and degreaser


Note:If it's really cruddy inside you might consider flushing the Box with diesel or degreaser, about 15-20 liters in the

gearbox, drive the tractor for a few minutes slowly, Then Thoroughly drain before adding new oil.)


Now reinstall the Main Filter (It only needs to be finger tight)



Reinstall a new locking wire ( this is important, Don't forget it!!!)

Almost Done!!

Reinstall the PTO cover making sure the selector arm engages the selector track as noted earlier ( if you don't you won't have PTO selection)

Clean and reinstall both drain plugs

Reinstall the Foot boards/ Hand Brake Rod and Fender



Fill the gearbox through the filler hole next to the gear selector



My MF135 took 31 liters to reach the Max level on the Dipstick

I suggest you add 20 Liters in one go, then add one liter at a time checking each time with the dipstick to avoid overfilling

I used Hydralink Farmlube 15/40 but any oil that is MF1129A spec or better will do.

There you go all done, It took me 4 hours to do the job, Remember it was my first time.

Results.......

My Multipower now works great!, the hydraulics are now much faster, no more jerking and lift almost anything,

It's amazing what a difference clean fresh oil makes.

Any hoo I hope the write up helps someone!

HooRoo from downunder, John

 

[coralhead]

Nice write up. I had to rebuild my MP filter several years ago with new copper mesh screen. Much cheaper than a new one. Copper mesh from McMaster Carr.

 

[johmarq]

Nice Job!

 

[PatrickS2222]

Top job to you both! :thumbsup: Also, a huge thank you for taking the time and trouble to post, with great pics too, tremendously useful information that we all can refer to in the future. :drink:

That's going to remove a lot of the mystery for anyone doing that job in the future. :laughing:
If the MP filter cannot be found outside - we now know where it is! I did not know until now that it also uses the gearbox's oil - I had presumed it had its own oil and therefore its reservoir would be somewhere around the steering box area, full of ATF I reckoned. :ashamed:

That pick-up screen blocking up would also explain a lot of failures in MP units - starving the pump of oil leading to low MP pump output pressure and slipping clutch packs, resulting in burning friction plates out. Sounds just like automatic transmissions in motor vehicles when their filters block up - they suffer from the same type of maintenance and upkeep - none. I'm not much better... what's that they say about a mechanic's car? It never gets sufficient attention!

But back to the subject of tractors - the gearbox oil rarely gets changed and as a result is usually contaminated with a huge amount of foreign matter, mostly moisture, turning it to the horrendous colour you saw when you drained it out. Mine was a close to a similar colour 4-5 years ago, but what spurred me into action was the 3pt slowing after working only 15-20 minutes. I was using a rear grader blade, levelling out clay on the bank of a smallish dam I had removed it from, in order to enlarge its capacity. As a result, the tractor was moving around like a bronco in a rodeo and the sediment was being stirred up from the bottom of the gearbox casing. I drained the oil, found and removed the filter, presumed it was a paper-element type and for all of about 20 bucks our local MF Dealer had one in stock! The sales guy I rang and quoted the part number to was as surprised as I was! :laughing: Only when I unpacked it I saw it was washable and re-usable, but I put the new one in, filled it with clean oil and it was back to normal.

 

[redman135]

Hello johmarq, excellent tutorial on how to change the gearbox oil AND how and where to find and clean the multipower filter screen. Don't stress overfilling a multipower gearbox, especially if it is running a loader, the mechanic filed a new "max oil level" mark (1/2 inch higher) on the gearbox dipstick on dad's MF178 and we never had trouble with the gearbox. Sold at 7000 hrs with original multipower.
1 point, check the gear stick boots, they perish and let water into the gearbox. Also check that they are correctly seated, if they are not water can get in.

 

[johmarq]

Yep, that's exactly what happened to mine. The previous owner had it parked outside in the weather for 7 years and there were no gearbox selector boots at all. also no dip stick in the transmission, no wonder it was full of water.

Hooroo, John

 

[torpedo5506a]

Hi. I see you have multi power pump for massey ferguson 135, year 1965, number part 194649M91, i need new pump or very good not new, but not have no where in internet. Can help i find or u have, and i need filter for pump.
Pics inbox.
Tnx.

 

[Mike_in_Missouri]

Hi All,

I purchased a 1968 Massey Ferguson MF135 with Multipower recently,

The Multipower didn't work, the Hydraulics were very slow and jerky and wouldn't lift anything slightly heavy, They also fell

down when the PTo was off.

Sound familiar?

Anyway, after checking the Transmission Oil I discovered it looked like really Milky Coffee.

Time for new Hydraulic Oil.

I knew there must be filters that will need cleaning/Replacement,

The Main Hydraulic pump filter was easy to find info about but the Multipower Filter was a mystery. Was there one? where it it?

The Genuine Service Manual makes no reference and there's little to nothing on the Web/ TBN.

So I thought I'd just open it up and see.

Here is my write up with Pics to help others doing a MF135/Multipower Transmission Oil Change.


Start with the Tractor on level ground,(even better if you can have the left side slightly lower to aid oil draining)

Lower the Hydraulics.

Select neutral in the gearbox and High/low range selector, Make sure the brakes are fully applied and locked.

Chock the wheels front and back. ( you will be under the tractor so think Safety!)

Make sure the PTO selector is in Neutral. (important)


Remove the left hand mudguard/fender, the left foot board ( rear mount is bolted through the PTO Cover Plate) and the hand

brake rod if fitted

View attachment 485878

View attachment 485879

Remove the two drain plugs ( one in the rear just below the PTO selector, and the second one is just in front of the front foot

board mount) and let drain until all the old oil has drained. You will need two containers with a capacity of 30 liters/Back plug

and 20 Liters/ Front Plug

View attachment 485880

View attachment 485881

Remove the PTO Cover (and arm, they come off as one piece)

Take note of the selector arm position and the groove it mates with in the gearbox

You need to know where the selector arm goes when you reinstall the PTO Cover. If you don't the PTO selector won't work

View attachment 485882

View attachment 485883

View attachment 485884

Locate the Hydraulic Pump Filter ( just in front and below the PTO cover opening ( you can't miss it)

View attachment 485885

Notice the filter is lock wired from the top of the filter to a small hole ( This is to stop the filter undoing itself and destroying

your gearbox)

Carefully cut the wire (make sure you don't drop and pieces)

Now unscrew and remove the Filter. ( hold the whole filter, It's made of three parts and will come apart if your not careful)

Thoroughly clean the filter with degreaser and an air gun if you have one. (the filters are reusable, but if yours is damaged

replace it)Set it aside to reinstall later

View attachment 485886

No comes the Multipower part!!!

Just behind the main hydraulic pump filter is a small rectangular screen/Filter, this is the Multipower screen,

(It is behind a half circular baffle)

(Later MF135s have an external filter and this screen may not be present)

View attachment 485887

Gently bend one side of the Baffle to expose the Multipower screen

View attachment 485888

Mine was cover in crud as you can see

Now clean it with a spray degreaser and a clean rag.

View attachment 485889

I fitted a long nozzle from a Bug Spray can to make it easier to get a good pressure spray

View attachment 485890

Now bend the Baffle back into position ans do the other side, Carefully bend the other side of the baffle to expose the other

side of the Multipower screen

View attachment 485891

Clean that side as well, then reform the baffle back to it's original shape

View attachment 485887

Now give the bottom of the gearbox a good wipe out with a clean cloth and degreaser


Note:If it's really cruddy inside you might consider flushing the Box with diesel or degreaser, about 15-20 liters in the

gearbox, drive the tractor for a few minutes slowly, Then Thoroughly drain before adding new oil.)


Now reinstall the Main Filter (It only needs to be finger tight)

View attachment 485892

Reinstall a new locking wire ( this is important, Don't forget it!!!)

Almost Done!!

Reinstall the PTO cover making sure the selector arm engages the selector track as noted earlier ( if you don't you won't have PTO selection)

Clean and reinstall both drain plugs

Reinstall the Foot boards/ Hand Brake Rod and Fender

View attachment 485893

Fill the gearbox through the filler hole next to the gear selector

View attachment 485894

My MF135 took 31 liters to reach the Max level on the Dipstick

I suggest you add 20 Liters in one go, then add one liter at a time checking each time with the dipstick to avoid overfilling

I used Hydralink Farmlube 15/40 but any oil that is MF1129A spec or better will do.

There you go all done, It took me 4 hours to do the job, Remember it was my first time.

Results.......

My Multipower now works great!, the hydraulics are now much faster, no more jerking and lift almost anything,

It's amazing what a difference clean fresh oil makes.

Any hoo I hope the write up helps someone!

HooRoo from downunder, John

Excellent post, and thank you! I wish I had found this BEFORE changing my hydraulic oil...but had to get it done due to hay season.

I needed the information on he MultiPower filter. So it isn't a standalone filter! Now I know! I guess I can return the filter I ordered, as my tractor looks like yours in there.

Where can I find the lock wire that's needed to be reinstalled? I did not put one back in because I didn't have anything suitable lying around at the time. I will reinstall it at the end of the season when I'm through with haying...and pray the new filter stays put till then.

 

[redman135]

For those of you who have done all the above and STILL have poor multipower performance and are going to split the tractor, look at the NOSECONE. This had worn out on my 135 and MIMICED PERFECTLY a "worn multipower". It fooled the 2 MF mechanics to, 30 and 15 years respectively.

The whole gearbox has to be disassmbled from the front to get to the multipower clutch pack at the back of the gearbox. A big job. THEN found the multipower clutch pack was in good condition and put it back in.

The "nosecone" was remanufactured and it was like I had a new gearbox. All the multipower shifts worked perfectly.

Symptoms of worn out nose cone:
permanant low multipower on flat ground and up hill.
Going down hill it would run away. Even in LOW RANGE 1st ,it would try to run away if the ground was steep enough. I have a steep main track, it was a problem.