Questins about fluid changes on farm pro 2425(pics)

[ymurf]

I bought this Farm Pro from a friend i work with and it has 110 hours on it and he has never changed any fluids in it.He knows nothing about it and i am trying to learn.It came with two extra filters so i want to change the fluids but i have a few questions.I have read allot on this sight so i think i know what kind of oils to run in it.Question #1:There are two screw on filters on the tractor,I know the one up high that is orange color is for the engine oil but there is one down low on the side of the engine painted black that i also have a replacement filter that came with it,I am assuming it is a hydraulic screen or filter??#2:When i drain the hydraulic fluid and change that spin on filter will i have to prime the pump somehow or will it be ok?If it needs primed how is this done?Sorry if i sound dumb but all i ever had was an old farmall 450 gas tractor.I am new with these chinese tractors but i think i got a good deal,I got the 2003 farm pro 2425,5 foot bush hog,and a blade for $3000.00..Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.

 

[ymurf]

I have done some more reading and think maby i am wrong on the filter location.One is marked cx0706 which i believe to be an engine oil filter but the one down low on the replacement filter is marked jx0706p.Is one of these a fuel filter?Dang,I am lost.

 

[ymurf]

Ok from what i have read,the cx0706 is the fuel filter and the jx0706p is the oil filter.The hydraulic filter is under the seat..So if i don't take it out will i have to prime the pump?

 

[ToadHill]

Pumps sit low in the bottom of the gear lube. They will not need to be primed as they are sitting in the reservior of lube.

 

[Diamondpilot]

You have it all wrong. The one down low on the left side of the tractor as you are setting on it is your OIL FILTER. You can use the filter you have and a then use a FRAM PH3950 as a replacement in the future. Your tractor will take about 6 qts of oil but some only take 3.5 qts. I am 99% sure yours takes the 6 but add slowly and check. I recommend a quality 15W40 like Rotella.

The filter up high on the left side of the engine is the fuel filer. You must prime the system after changing. What I do is fill the new filter with diesel fuel. Next on the injector pump there is a knurled knob toward the back. You push down and twist and it will pop up. It is a thumb primer to get the fuel back up in the lines. Next try to start. It may run then die. Try this a few times and if that does not work or it runs rough have a helper crack the hard line feeding each of the 3 injectors one at a time to let fuel and the air in the line bleed out. You must do this why the tractor is running or cranking it. I dont have a cross over for the fuel filter handy but can find it if you need it.

Dont forget to change your injector pump oil, front axle oil, transmission oil, and hydraulic oil.

Chris.

 

[greg_g]

Pumps sit low in the bottom of the gear lube. They will not need to be primed as they are sitting in the reservior of lube.

This tractor has separate sumps containing gear oil for tranny/diff and hydraulic fluid for the rear lift and steering. Hydraulic fluid is added through a fill vent behind the seat, and the hydraulic pump is engine mounted. There should be a screen-type suction strainer in the lift box under the seat.

Since I don't see an external hydraulic strainer or filter in your photos, your the hydraulic circuit(s) should be self-priming. Reason? The fill plug is vented. As such, you should make the fill vent a regular maintenance item. Some of them come apart for cleaning. The frequency depends upon your operating conditions, but I'd clean it with kerosene at least a couple times a year.

//greg//

 

[ymurf]

You guys are a great help.I hope i am not asking to many questions but i have another. I am going to get my fluids tomorrow and am having a heck of a time now,Thought i had it figured out but now i need you guys advice.On this link it says to put the same hydraulic fluid in the tranny and the lift.Service Bulletin from Tractor Outlet Jinma Tractors Loaders Backhoes
But i see allot of posts on here to run different oils in the tranny and lift?I need some help here before i buy the wrong stuff.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Ok, this will help you tons. It was put together by our good friends at Tractor Outlet, so thank them. It has info for the 200 series Jinma and the 300 series Jinma. By the way your Farm Pro 2425 is a re badged Jinma 254, ie 200 series.

Make sure you hit the "Continue to Next Page" link at the bottom because its about 3 or 4 pages long. It contains tons of good info to help get you on the way.

Here is the link:

Service Bulletin from Tractor Outlet Jinma Tractors Loaders Backhoes

Chris

 

[RonMar]

In your first pic, the filter up high(orange) above the injector pump is the fuel filter. There is a bolt up on top of the filter mount to bleed air out of the system. Down on the side of the injector pump is a manual priming pump. It has a cap about 1.25" across. You unscrew it and it pops up under spring force to become a pump plunger. So once you turn the fuel back on at the tank after you change the fuel filter, you unscrew the air bleed on top of he filter and use that hand pump to pump the filter full of fuel and get ALL the air out of the new filter. Tap the filter and lines with a screwdriver to loosen any stuck airbubbles and induce them to rise to this vent. Once you get pure fuel out the vent, push the pump handle in one final time and re-screw it in place, then screw the filter air vent closed. If you don't get the air out, it will find it's way to the injector pump. The injectors fire by hydraulic pressure, that is why they are connected to the pump with hard lines. Any air that makes it here can cause an injector to stop firing which will require that the injector lines be bled(bigger pain in the ***, so don't ever run out of fuel).

The filter down low and just visible above and behind the front tire in the first pic is the engine oil filter.

The hydraulic strainer is located in the hydraulic resovoir/3PH housing under the seat. If it has not been checked, you should remove and inspect it when you change out the hydraulic oil. These strainers are usually a brass screen and some have found holes in it. Because of the way it is assembled, it is possible to shake loose and be laying inpieces at the bottom of the sump, so a looksee is highly reccomnded. There is probably a pipe union right at the top that allows you to disconenect and remove the filter from the hard hydraulic suction line. the filter is removed by unbolting a 3 bolt flange plate on top of he reservoir. This is also a opportunity to wipe out any metal shavings that may have accumulated in the bottom of he hydraulic sump. If the pipe union/fitting goes back together properly after the filter inspection, the hydraulic pump should self prime after you refill the resovoir with new hydraulic oil. If hte pump dosn't start pumping fluid after 20-30 seconds of idle after the refill, you can open that pipe union, and using a rubber hose pressed into the end, pour some hydraulic oil down that suction line to help the pump prime. Since the pump will still have oil in it, this shouldn't be a problem.

Chris posted the first link I was thinking of. that is a real good one. But also if you havn't been there already, I would reccomend you visit John's Jinma website as it has a wealth of info and pics on these machines. Looking under the "Jinma Info" tab will show further links to maintenance and mod info.
johnstractor

 

[ymurf]

Ok, this will help you tons. It was put together by our good friends at Tractor Outlet, so thank them. It has info for the 200 series Jinma and the 300 series Jinma. By the way your Farm Pro 2425 is a re badged Jinma 254, ie 200 series.

Make sure you hit the "Continue to Next Page" link at the bottom because its about 3 or 4 pages long. It contains tons of good info to help get you on the way.

Here is the link:

Service Bulletin from Tractor Outlet Jinma Tractors Loaders Backhoes

Chris

Thats the same page i read,It says to use the same hydraulic oil in the transmission that you put in the lift.I see allot of other posts on here to use a 90w gear oil or something like that in the transmission and hydraulic oil in the lift.Which is best or does it matter?

 

[RonMar]

You guys are a great help.I hope i am not asking to many questions but i have another. I am going to get my fluids tomorrow and am having a heck of a time now,Thought i had it figured out but now i need you guys advice.On this link it says to put the same hydraulic fluid in the tranny and the lift.Service Bulletin from Tractor Outlet Jinma Tractors Loaders Backhoes
But i see allot of posts on here to run different oils in the tranny and lift?I need some help here before i buy the wrong stuff.

Gear oil in the transmission and differential/axle cases(yelow metal friendly, low foam). Since you didn't fill out your profile telling us where you are at, I can only make a guess as to weight. 80W90 is typical, but you may want something heavier for a warmer climate.

Probably AW32 Hydraulic oil in the hydraulc resovoir/3PH lift box, but again this can be determined by your local climate. If you go to your local Napa, they will probably have 5 gallon pails of what is used in the area for hydraulic oil.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I would run these fluids. I have the same Farm Pro 2425, 2003, just like yours.

Oil 15W40
Hydro AW32
Injector Pump SAE30 motor oil. Others run compressor oil or the same 15W40
Front axle and tranny 80W90 Gear Oil

Chris

 

[Diamondpilot]

The pics in the link I sent only show one drain for the tranny but there is actually 3. The one back by the draw bar, one on the output for the front drive shaft, and one just above the front drive shaft for the creeper gear box. When you refill the tranny let it sit over night after putting oil in. The reason is it has to pass through some bearings to get to the creeper gear box. So what I am saying is fill it to the proper level and let is sit. The next day it will be low so you will have to refill it again to the level desired after the oil has settled. The other option is to take the cover off the creeper and pour some oil directly in.

Your front axle also has 3 drains. One on the center diff and one on each final drive out by the wheels. They are small square headed plugs, maybe 1/4 inch. Be careful not to twist off.

If you have questions PM me and I will try to help. By the way, where do you live. This will help us know what fluids to run.


Chris

 

[ymurf]

Gear oil in the transmission and differential/axle cases(yelow metal friendly, low foam). Since you didn't fill out your profile telling us where you are at, I can only make a guess as to weight. 80W90 is typical, but you may want something heavier for a warmer climate.

Probably AW32 Hydraulic oil in the hydraulc resovoir/3PH lift box, but again this can be determined by your local climate. If you go to your local Napa, they will probably have 5 gallon pails of what is used in the area for hydraulic oil.

I am sorry.I am in Missouri.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Missouri, I would run what we told you to put in it.

Chris

 

[ymurf]

I would run these fluids. I have the same Farm Pro 2425, 2003, just like yours.

Oil 15W40
Hydro AW32
Injector Pump SAE30 motor oil. Others run compressor oil or the same 15W40
Front axle and tranny 80W90 Gear Oil

Chris

Thanks allot guys.I really do appreciate the info.If you have the same tractor can you please tell me how much of each i will need and ill get it all tomorrow?Thanks again.

 

[greg_g]

Thats the same page i read,It says to use the same hydraulic oil in the transmission that you put in the lift.I see allot of other posts on here to use a 90w gear oil or something like that in the transmission and hydraulic oil in the lift.Which is best or does it matter?

I see why you're confused. The Tractor Outlet guidelines are generally useful, but their statement "...transmission and hydraulic system use the same oil. Choose a quality hydraulic oil such as #303 from New Holland " is not only incorrect, it's inconsistent with what's actually printed in the owner's manual and contrary to what's been preached on these Chinese tractor forums for years.

That is; use gear oil for gears, hydraulic fluid for hydraulics, diesel engine oil for the engine and injector pump (I personally prefer compressor oil for the injector pump) and SCA-type antifreeze for the cooling system.

//greg//

 

[Gerifalte]

If you haven't already seen this, here is a nice pictorial on how to do this service in a Jinma model with a smaller engine, but pretty much everything is the same as yours. The Jinma 100 Hr. Service

Good luck!

G

 

[Diamondpilot]

Here is some more help. I looked up the filter numbers I use on my 2003 Jinma 254.

Air= Purulator A42019
Oil= Fram PH3950
Fuel= Fram P6503

I get mine at advanced. It usually takes them a day to order in the air and fuel filter so get a extra of each to have one on the shelf.

The oil filter is in stock at all times.

You can go anywhere withe these numbers like Napa or Carquest and have them crossed over to other brands.

Chris

 

[Danish]

Venting FO-system:
Is done by operating the thumb pump and loosening the vent screw located on the side of the injector pump (the screw with the ring).
When you see no more bubbles from the vent screw, retighten screw and pump plunger. Then try to start the engine. You may experience a few misfires. If the engine continues to misfire or refuse to start, you have to bleed the hardlines at the injectors.

Priming Hydraulic pump:
May not be necessary, but if.
Fill the reservoir. Loosen suction line at the pump. Pressurerize reservoir with a blow gun connected to a compressor, until you see oil flowing from suction line at pump. You pressureize by blocking one of the vent holes in the filler-/vent cap with a finger, and blowing with the gun into the other hole.
Then retighten suction line, start engine and work hydraulics.

Lube oils:
Engine oil: The manual prescribes SAE30 or SAE40 in summer, and SAE 10W20 in winter. You can use 10W30, 10W40, 15W40. I use 10W30 or 10W40 all year. Approval: API CC or higher (CD or CE etc.)
Gear boxes: Gearoil, 80W or 85W Approval GL-4 or GL-5. I use 80W90 GL-4 for frontaxle and transmission.
You can use dual purpose oil for transmission, hydraulics, and engine. Just note the above mentioned approvals and grades. I do not use dual purpose, because I think those are too light for the rough transmissions.

Hydraulic:
I use ISO VG 46.
I think the manual prescribes VG 68 or VG 100, but I'm affraid such viscous oil can cause cavitation problems in the climate I'm in.

Govenor:
Engine oil, hydraulic fluid, compressor oil, whatever.

Regarding API approvals:
Example Shell Harvella T 10W30 API CF-4/CF/SF, API GL-4.
CF-4/CF is the Diesel engine approval. This is indicated by the first letter "C"
SF is the gasoline engine approval, indicated by "S"
GL is the Gear Lube approval.

/SC