Funkster, your last sentence (on your first post) makes me think you have a worn drive/clutch belt. I don't have any gators, but I am into snowmobiles, and those clutch belt drive systems are very similiar. When a belt gets worn on the sides(the taper of the belt gets thinner) then during initial belt engagement (from a dead stop at idle) those pulley sheaves have to squeeze closer together BEFORE it touchs/grips the thinner belt, this puts the belt "up" higher on the pulley sheaves and changes the gear ratio. It is like letting the clutch out on a manual transmission with it in 2nd or 3rd gear from a dead stop verses 1st gear. You lose that mechanical advantage that makes the vehicle take off quickly from a dead stop. Again, on snowmobiles with a new belt on, engine off, you should only have about .020" side clearance between the belt side(taper) and the pulley sheave on the engine primary clutch. I doubt any factory clutch is set this tight, this spec is a high performance setting. Another big factor is the distance between the engine primary clutch/pulley and the transmission secondary pulley. I assume John Deere has slots for the engine mounts to adjust this. Basically, at idle, you want the belt as tight as possible BUT not so tight that the vehicle creeps forward by itself at an idle due to friction at the center shaft of the front primary clutch. This may be too involved for what you want, but I would sure try a new belt(cheap and easy on snowmobiles) as a first step. I have cured peoples snowmobile "LOW POWER" complaints just by telling them to install a new(correct size) drive belt.
