Backhoe Mahindra complaint

[DiskDoctr]

I do agree, however, with realizing that smaller hoes have to be made lighter and aren't made to do the things larger hoes are made for.--- But shouldn't it hold up to what it will do?

Yep!

-JC

 

[bindian]

I do agree, however, with realizing that smaller hoes have to be made lighter and aren't made to do the things larger hoes are made for.--- But shouldn't it hold up to what it will do?

I do agree that plastic parts in a component, such as a valve that continually moves, is hideous. It makes us owner/operators buy complete replacement units.........pushing their $ profit higher. I find myself. often, after pricing a replacement part.........trying to figure out how to make or modify a replacement.
I guess since the valve was not made by Mahindra, it can not stand up to the use the normal Mahindra tractor sees. I had an issue with my Bradhoe 511, in warranty, with boom pivot bushings, until my Mahindra dealer added shims. It still has more play than I think it should. We just got to understand backhoes.. ..........of all equipment we hang and work off our tractors.........get the most abuse, as it is the nature of moving parts repeatedly stuck in dirt.
hugs, Brandi

 

[DavesTractor]

If your pins are worn badly already, you aren't getting enough grease where it needs to be, or you are not getting it there often enough. We will often see a bunch of grease all over a plugged zert (spelling?), but no grease on the pins.

As to the broken plastic rod ends...yeah, that wasn't such a good idea and they no longer use that valve system and haven't for a while. However, the rod ends are available separate from the assembly and not many people break them. Bot those that do break them, break them often. Probably some people have a heavier hand on the sticks than others, but even so, they should not be fragile. That is a USA made backhoe, but I think it used an Italian valve. So the "problem" has been rectified on the newer backhoes, but I don't think there is a simple way to retrofit the controls, it would probably take an entire valve assembly and that would be big bucks.

 

[bindian]

Backhoe zert fittings that will not take grease usually can be greased by moving the control to get the hoe or stabilizer pin and bushing in a relieved spot. It takes some trial and error to find that sweet spot.
hugs, Brandi

 

[DiskDoctr]

Backhoe zert fittings that will not take grease usually can be greased by moving the control to get the hoe or stabilizer pin and bushing in a relieved spot. It takes some trial and error to find that sweet spot.
hugs, Brandi

Or remove the grease zerk, clear out the hole with a small pick (hard or dry grease that looks like dirt is a sure sign of a plugged zerk), and replace the grease zerk.

Many places sell grease zerks for < $1 each.

Good catch on the grease issue

Hope this helps.

- JC

 

[s78wingrider]

I always have extra zert's on hand, if I'm greasing and there's a problem, I change it right then! I just think this hoe was built as cheap as possible. With some pins, bushings, and different controls I would be happy

 

[DiskDoctr]

With some pins, bushings, and different controls I would be happy

Got welder?

Weld bushings on outside of joint, get longer steel pins.

That's not much help with the controls, though.

- JC

 

[s78wingrider]

I do have welder and wondering where to look for help finding a different control that would be the easiest to adapt to this hoe. Have a great 4th!!!

 

[bindian]

I do have welder and wondering where to look for help finding a different control that would be the easiest to adapt to this hoe. Have a great 4th!!!

I would be extra careful in welding around main support and stess points on the backhoe. New welds should be heat treated to relieve stress cracking.
hugs, Brandi

 

[SPYDERLK]

Backhoe zert fittings that will not take grease usually can be greased by moving the control to get the hoe or stabilizer pin and bushing in a relieved spot. It takes some trial and error to find that sweet spot.
hugs, Brandi

Or remove the grease zerk, clear out the hole with a small pick (hard or dry grease that looks like dirt is a sure sign of a plugged zerk), and replace the grease zerk.

Many places sell grease zerks for < $1 each.

Good catch on the grease issue

- JC

The 1st is usually effective for zerks that have not been neglected. The grease outlet is obstructed by pressure from the pin as Brandi described.

The second fix will have no effect on the 1st condition so be sure its not just blocked before you assume its plugged.
larry