My issue with runout is more focused on the smaller diameter annular cutters with the brazed on carbide inserts more than the high speed no carbide cutters. There isn't a whole lot of 'meat' holding the insert to the parent metal so any induced shock could cause the insert to become loose and fall off and that would render the cutter to be not useable. Why, when using insert tooling on a machine tool, the insert is almost always mechanically clamped to the tool holder and fits in a pocket as well. The cemented in carbide inserts like on cheap boring bars, tend to fail when subjected to shock loads. Been there and did that more than one time. Not really cemented in but brazed on to the parent tool. Why I only use high speed parting tools. 'Cemented' in carbide on parting tools is a recipe for failure and that applies to the smaller diameter annular cutters as well and any runout can cause the cutter to experience a shock load scenario, especially when starting a bore. The quick change spindle head eliminates that because the 'pinch point' if you want to call it that is in 3 places, radially spaced equally, not two like the set screw spindle noses.
Been my experience that machining tolerances at least on Weldon 2 flat shanks varies quite a bit from manufacturer to manufacturer. I bought a set of Jestuous carbide tipped annular cutters before I realized they would not fit my spindle nose (and sent them back and Amazon refunded my money, nice of them actually as I never used them but I did measure the OD of the mounting shanks and they varied from -0.0003 to 0.000 and everywhere in between. I measured them with a very accurate Starrett micrometer in a controlled environment, my climate controlled shop. I double checked them with a set of Starrett dial calipers as well. No 2 were alike in dimension. Any runout can and will cause the cemented carbide insert(s) to fail, like I said, especially on smaller diameter cutters. Why I like the half turn quick change nose on the Vevor I have, what I don't like is the lack of compatible cutters available.
One thing to always keep in mind and that is, when handling annular cutters, especially new ones, wear cotton gloves to protect your digits as they are extremely sharp and don't drop them on any hard surface or the concrete floor as you can blunt the points easily if HSS or knock an insert loose if they are insert cutters. Not like a conventional twist drill at all.
I need to inquire about resharpening them as well. Has to be some sort of jig available to where you can resharpen them and still hold the cutting edges uniform. I sharpen my own end mills on one of the surface grinders in a dedicated jig. Must be one out there for annular cutters as well. Of course a carbide insert cutter would have to be sharpened with a CBN wheel and I have them. I use them when I dress carbide insert chainsaw loops.
