M7030 Blow-by (HELP)

   / M7030 Blow-by (HELP) #31  
Hey I thought that it was a little high,,,,but when we thought that we were looking at a re-build,,,,man 215.00 looks GREAT!!!!

I think Kubota Corp. Accounting Dept. realizes this. :laughing:

Just be careful setting the cyl head down on to that gold plated jewel as not to bend the compression rings or such. That's one part I would definitely hate to buy twice for one job.
 
   / M7030 Blow-by (HELP) #32  
I thought that should have been at least 2 line up pins, but there is only one,,,it was/is located on the left rear corner of the block????

You said the proper order??? Is that from the middle out to the ends??? That's how we did 25 yrs on Mack Trucks??? and the cross contamination,,,with "blue glue"?

No blue glue on a head gasket. Valve cover maybe. Gasket shellac or nothing at all.

The deck and head underside needs to be clean and flat. You need to remove any residue and/or carbon prior.

I'd be investing in a shop manual. I have no idea of the tightening sequence, the starting torque, the finish torque or if the head bolts are dry torque or wet torque. Only the shop manual (or a dealer knows). They may also be one time use.

Mack trucks don't count.
 
   / M7030 Blow-by (HELP) #33  
The shop manual purchase is a good investment. You cannot always go by old practices. As an example the Perkins 4.4 liter Tier 2 engine has a significantly different tightening torque pattern than the 4.0 liter Tier 1 engine. If you use the Tier 1 pattern, you will quickly blow a Tier 2 head gasket, and they aren't cheap. In fact you would be pleased to pay only $215 for the special head gasket needed to withstand cold start combustion chamber pressures whcih, hard as it is to believe, are higher than those the engine sees under full torque.
 

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