M4700 4wd

   / M4700 4wd #1  

Thomasre

Bronze Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2000
Messages
60
Location
North Carolina
Tractor
Kubota L3430 + BX2230
This is a great resource! I have been following this board for 8 months and looking for good used compact tractor for about 6+ months and I need some help or at least some opinions.I know that the Kubota M4700 is not a "compact", but I'm considering a used 97' M4700 4wd, ag tires & L1001 loader 8 forward speed / 4 reverse (not shuttle shift) with 180 hrs for use in light clearing, landscaping, and moving materials while building a house on 3 acres. Lot has gentle and some not so gentle slope. After home is built, I will likely sell tractor and go smaller - say L3010 size. I need help with sereral questions. Location is piedmont North Carlina. I'm considering making offer this week.1. What would be fair price offer on tractor & loader to individual, tractor has been available for 6 months +. Is $15,000 - $20,000 offer high / low? Tracter is not perfect but looks 90 - 95%. Is 97 model an issue? 2. How easy would this tractor be to resale - is market much smaller for larger midsize tractor? 3. Would M4700 be more stable of slope than compact, my feeling is that it would more stable due to wider stance and longer wheel base. Wheels are currently filled with liquid, not sure how much. Is there a way to determine optimal level. 4. What implements would I need to for preparing lot / lawn etc. A 48" Long tiller is available with purchase, would need boxscrape and forks. What else and would the tiller be of great value of should I leave out? 5. I would add pallet forks. Kubota forks cost? and take how long to swap with bucket? Other suggestions for bucket & forks? 6. Should I look at something else? Is this model good tractor?I know this is a lot to ask, but any help / opinion is appreciated.
 
   / M4700 4wd #2  
The tractor can be bought new 2000 model for around $23,000 with loader and 4WD. The tires are normally filled to 90% with antifreeze and water or calcium chloride. I would find out which it has. I have no idea what would be fair offer, but it should be in area of $20,000 (x90% might be a little lower).

Set the wheels as wide as you can to get the best stability - front and rear. Remember that the rear tires weigh about 800# each and don't lay them down or you will not get them back up.

48 inch tiller is pretty small for that tractor, but it may do what you want. A 6 ft would be nice and 5 ft will work ok. May leave tire prints on the tilled soil, though. The 48 inch will leave lots of tire prints and compacted soil.

I think it is a good tractor and I have the M6800SD which is just a little larger tractor. It is a very strong tractor and capable of doing a lot of work. If I were going to make a living landscaping, I would buy a compact. It all depends on what you want to do or plan to do. This is a utility tractor size and is capable of doing real work in 4WD and is in a very compact package. It will pull a 6 ft Bush Hog Mower and has enough weight to pick up a 1000# mower, which many compacts cannot.

Kubota makes a quick release for the bucket for about $250. The forks are really good but cost about $1000 or so. The clip on forks are useful and a lot cheaper, but have weight limits on the load. The LA1001 loader will pick up a 1/2 yard of dirt or gravel that weighs 2200# and the tractor is heavy enough to handle it.

If you want a smaller compact, why not just buy it now? /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
 
   / M4700 4wd #3  
Thomas, when I was looking to buy a tractor at the end of last year I was wanting to buy a 4700 4wd. My decision was between a 4310 hst (because it is so easy to operate) and a 4700 because it was bigger, stronger, and more powerful. I chose the M series because I would be clearing a lot of land. It sounds like you will be clearing land, but it also sounds like you will be using it to help you build. Need to let us know how you intend to use your future tractor.

Wen has a great suggestion. Instead up buying one tractor, using it, going through the hassle of selling it, and then buying another tractor, why not just buy the tractor you want from the start and be done with it.

One of the ideas I had when I was buying was to buy a beat up 4x4 60 hp tractor at a good price, doing all the hard clearing work that need to be done, and then selling it, and buying a new tractor that I hadn't dogged out. After looking at prices of used tractors and realizing they weren't that great of a deal, I decided to just buy what I was going to use over the next several years. I have been happy with that decision.

One other thing to remember, you are buying a tractor not a tracked frontend loader or a bull dozer. When I first started working on my property I was trying to get my tractor to do jobs it just wasn't meant to do. I finally hired a grader who used a CAT 931 (tracked loader) with a 4-in-1 bucket. What he did in a week I couldn't have done in a year. He charged me $2,650 which has been the best money I've spent on our ranch thus far. He charged $55/hr.

So my suggestion is to buy the tractor you think you will use over the next few years, and to hire someone with a CAT to do the big work.

Now to your questions...finally.

1) When buying something used, offer low...a lot lower than you expect it to be. That is a good starting point. When I was trying to buy a tractor this past Fall, I found a 1998 4700 4wd, with a canopy, but without a loader, and with 16 hours on it for $17,900. I offered $16,000 and the dealer didn't budge. I offered $16,900 and told him that was as high as I'd go. He wouldn't come down in price at all. I walked and found a better deal about 2 weeks later. About a week after I'd bought my tractor the dealer with the 4700 called me and was willing to take $17,300. So I'd say the 4700 your are looking at should be less than $17,300 (It's a year older and has more hours). Call a dealer and find out what a new loader costs (I've forgotten) and take off 10% to 15%. Then take $2000 off your total and that gives you your beginning offer...and who knows, maybe the man says yes to the deal.

2) Tractor should be easy to resale but will take a little time. If you plan to resell make sure it is well maintained and very clean. Advertise it in the Equipment Trader magazine.

3) I think it would be more stable, but be really careful of any slope that's "not so gentle".

4) Wen is right, a 48" tiller is really too small, especially for a 4700. To rework my place I've been using a box scrape, all purpose plow, and front end loader with teeth.

5) I haven't bought forks yet for mine so I don't know the cost, but I did get a quick release, heavy duty bucket because I will get the forks after I build my barn. Does the 4700 you are looking at have a quick release bucket?

6) You may want to look at a 3710 hst. This may be more tractor than you need, but the cost new will be about what you will buy the 4700 for. After you are done building, how do you plan on using your tractor?
 
   / M4700 4wd
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks! for information - very helpful! As a follow-up.
I have 3 acres wooded lot on Lake Tillery and must maintain a wooden "seawall". I try to keep washed gravel behind seawall so as muskrats tunnel - the tunnels tend to collapse.(Any suggestions on Muskrat demise?) Along with hauling stone, the tractor will be used for maintaining 600 ft driveway, general landscaping + lawn etc. and pulling logs / limbs out of lake cove as they to drift in. Otherwise, I have 25 wooded acres where I try to maintain a tractor road through and keep downed trees cleared etc.

I have been borrowing a JD4400 w/r4s, great tractor, but not as wide or heavy. I would definitely consider downsizing to Kubota L3010 after building or maybe not.

Regarding loader - the M4700 has the quick attach loader, but you mentioned a quick release for the bucket for about $250. Will this drop the bucket and allow attachment of forks easily? Made by Kubota for the L1001? Sounds like a $250 that would be well spent. I would prefer not to use the bucket attached forks due to length.
 
   / M4700 4wd
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks! for information - very helpful! As a follow-up.
I have 3 acres wooded lot on Lake Tillery and must maintain a wooden "seawall". I try to keep washed gravel behind seawall so as muskrats tunnel - the tunnels tend to collapse.(Any suggestions on Muskrat demise?) Along with hauling stone, the tractor will be used for maintaining 600 ft driveway, general landscaping + lawn etc. and pulling logs / limbs out of lake cove as they to drift in. Otherwise, I have 25 wooded acres where I try to maintain a tractor road through and keep downed trees cleared etc.

I have been borrowing a JD4400 w/r4s, great tractor, but not as wide or heavy. I would definitely consider downsizing to Kubota L3010 after building or maybe not.

Regarding loader - the M4700 has the quick attach loader, but you and wen mentioned a quick release for the bucket for about $250. Will this drop the bucket and allow attachment of forks easily? Made by Kubota for the L1001? Sounds like a $250 that would be well spent. I would prefer not to use the bucket attached forks due to length.

Will consider 4310 hst, will try driving one today but price may be $23000+ vs. max $18,000 for M4700, making 4310 hard to justify vs. used M4700.
 
   / M4700 4wd #6  
The LA1001 loader can easily have a Kubota bucket quick release kit installed that is about $250 and contains a set of brackets for the bucket and a set for the loader. After installed, pull two pins, lower the loader and back away. Takes about 2 minutes to remove the bucket and put on a set of forks or a hay spear. Nice attachment.

Also works to take off the bucket and then you can see your lights easily while mowing. Saves adding an extra set up high. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
 
   / M4700 4wd #7  
Just remember, the M series are best suited as ag tractors. I mean they'll drag trees, grade, etc, all day long, lord knows I do enough of that. The amount of propery I have is what made me decide that a M series was for me. My brother has 18 acres, covered mostly with pasture and 3 to 8 year old pines. Most of the pines are easily knocked down. He didn't need an M series. He wanted something he could easily move around in. So he bought the 3710 hst with loader and Bushhog. I think he would have been miserable on a M series. There are many times I wish I had gotten a 4310 hst. Mostly when doing loader or grading work.

With 3 acres the 4700 is a lot of tractor.

Wen is right on with the quick release bucket.
 
   / M4700 4wd
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Again, this board is very helpful,, what was driving me to the 4700 was stability and my perception of $value. I offered $17k for tractor & loader after being told by local dealer that the wholesale was $15800 for 97' with loader/4wd/180hr and was rather rudely rejected by individual. Was this way out of line?

I'm sure your absolutely correct about the 3710, since I will be doing close maneuvering. My preference is and has been the 3710 HST with quick-release loader, forks, R4 tires set as wide as possible and box scrape. But it seems that everyone wants this tractor and I don't want to spend more than $20K - What do I give up HP, HST, or Orange ... or Help!
 
   / M4700 4wd #9  
I would be surprised if the M is more stable than the L. Isn't the L lower to the ground? I know the M is heavier, but if the weight is farther off the ground, it's not necessarily going to help.

So how much have you been quoted for the L3710 HST? If that's the right size for you, you're not very likely to be happy with the M, in my opinion.

Mark
 
   / M4700 4wd
  • Thread Starter
#10  
I honestly don't know, I'm willing to consider 3710 - 4610 or 4700 - 4900. Given same setup, R1 to R1 or R4 to R4 can someone give an educated guess regarding stability? I believe the L series sits at 15" with R1 and I think the 4700 is similar - not sure. However the distance to outside of tires is about 74" on 4700 / 4900 and about 62.4" on 4610. Additionally the wheelbase is longer on 4700 / 4900. Ideas or input ?
 
 
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