LVPs and Wear & Tear

   / LVPs and Wear & Tear #1  

Pettrix

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Jan 17, 2012
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High Desert Southwest
Luxury Vinyl Planks - I was looking to install these on my house. I DON'T wear shoes while indoors and don't have any dogs or cats (currently). Porcelain Tile is definitely more durable as it's stone but it's also more expensive, cold to the feet, and not a DIY install.

From my research it appears that MIL WEAR LAYER is important as that determines how strong the laminate face is. The thicker the wear layer, the more expensive the flooring, but worth the price. I found a LVP made by Shaw that is 20 mils thick.

I am wondering how well these floors hold up to wear & tear. Any input would be appreciated...

LVP.jpg


 
   / LVPs and Wear & Tear #2  
I just finished a laminate floor project in my office. I also did a porcelain tile project in a rental house last year (12x24" tiles). As far as diy is concerned, I'd do tile any day of the week over laminate. The key to either is having a really flat subfloor to put them on.
 

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   / LVPs and Wear & Tear #3  
We just did LVP in our new house build. From my limited knowledge gained from that project, I found that the wear layer thickness is not directly correlated to scratch resistance. The one we eventually chose has a 12 mil wear layer with ceramic coating for scratch resistance. Time will tell if we made a good decision...


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   / LVPs and Wear & Tear #4  
I had LVP installed a couple years ago through most of my home and I hate it. I went too cheap on the flooring I selected and it has cracked in a couple areas and I also hate the non beveled edges as the flooring is now raised up along almost every joint. Im going to replace it myself again here soon and I will select a better grade of LVP for sure. Lesson learned, dont cheap out like I did.
 
   / LVPs and Wear & Tear #5  
Sub floor as stated above is the major key. In needs to be flat/smooth. Even a missed carpet pad staple will reflex through the LVP. They do make a latex based self leveling compound, but its expensive, and you still need a good Flat surface first. We've got it in the hall bathroom, and in a small area, it's easy to install. In larger rooms, I would say it's probably harder to get Right than tile; no room/wall is actually square, and you don't have grout joints to cheat things ever so slightly.

Wear and tear; it's in a bathroom, so it takes moisture great, But we aren't moving furniture on it.
 
   / LVPs and Wear & Tear #6  
Installed LVP in my entry hall, kitchen and dining area around 5 or 6 years ago. Still looks like new and we have two Beagles the run on it via doggy door. Like others have said don’t go with cheapest stuff and level stable floor is a must have.

Biggest install problem was getting some of the joints to lock together.
 
   / LVPs and Wear & Tear #7  
we put lvp from Metrofloor in our previous house. It held up great to our 3 large dogs, cats, foster kids. I would use their products again. A general contractor we work for also recommends lifeproof brand from HD. just be sure to stick to the 100% plastic stuff, no MDF backer.
 
   / LVPs and Wear & Tear
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Thanks for the pics, comments and info. Like some have mentioned, you have to go for the better (higher priced) LVP. The cheaper stuff just doesn't last and hold up as well.

I also looked at the Lifeproof (HD) brand, it's also a 20 mil wear layer. The Shaw (Lowe's) brand comes with a pre-installed backing but they do sell a 1.5mm backing you can put down on the floor before laying the LVP. Shaw claims you don't need it but it can be used.

Screenshot 2024-01-17 204522.jpg
 
   / LVPs and Wear & Tear
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Do concrete slab expansion joints need to be filled BEFORE putting down LVP?
 
   / LVPs and Wear & Tear #10  
Do concrete slab expansion joints need to be filled BEFORE putting down LVP?
I took up the carpet and pad off my slab a few years ago and installed the Lowe's with the underlayment included. It still looks good.

As others have said, get the thicker, more expensive stuff. And wider pieces. The heavier weight plus the wider planks will lie flatter.

Yes, I'd fill the expansion joints, either with rigid or flexible filler. You need a flat base.

The floor will move around even as you lay it, unless you use plenty of spacers. I found the tee type spacers worked better than the double adjustable wedge type.
 
 
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