I own a Jinma 220, I am going to service it for the first time. I was told by my dealer to use 15w-40 in the crankcase and 303 hyd oil in the hydralics and the trans. Also 15w-40 in the Injection pump. I also talked with a dealer/service man out of state and he said the samething. I know a guy that is a service man with Case-IC and he said to use 303 or 80w-90 in the trans, he also said he would not flush the systems for you can't remove it all out and you would have kerosene to mix. So what should be used. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Lubricants
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Well,that has always been my thoughts on flushing with kerosine or diesal fuel to,,,,I would think a little of the old oil,,would be better than a little,[or maybe more than a little],kerosine,,,,,use aw 32 in hydro,,its just plain old hydrolic oil,,,,,, use 15w40 desal motor oil,,I've been using that chevron delo oil,,,rotilla is another,,,,,,use the same in fuel pump,,,,,,,now as far as front end and trans,,,,,,,alot of opinions on that one,,,I have 40 weight non detergent in my trans and in front,,,just drained out a gal in trans and added a gal. of that lucas oil additive,,,think I'll drain out a qt. of front end and add a qt. of lucas to it soon,,,,many use gear oil in trans and in front end to no ill affects,,,up to you there,,,,,got about 400 hrs on mine now,,,,don't use any oil,,,fuel pump still works,,,ain't had any trouble with front end or trans....hydrolicics still work just fine,,,,,,while your at it check your anti freeze and make sure its good down to where it needs to be where you live,,,I got about a 60 -40 mix in mine,[something like that],,60% being antifreeze,,A 50 -50 mix would have been just fine though,,its good for 30 below...Think about that hydro screen,,in tank under seat,,they get holes in them, also,,,,thingy
greg_g
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( So what should be used? )</font>
We've learned not to put much stock in the fluid recommendations in the Chinese owner's manuals. Whereas the manufacturers have performed physical modifications to satisfy American buyers, few mods have actually made it into the documentation. What we get through most dealers is a verbatim translation of the domestic manuals. Plus multi-viscosity lubricants (and antifreeze) are apparently not commonly used in China, which probably explains why they're missing from the books.
In case you want to follow my lead, here's what I use
Crankcase - Shell Rotella T 15W40
Front Diff - Shell Spirax HD 80W90 (non-foaming)
Tranny - Shell Spirax HD 80W90 (non-foaming)
Hydralics -Shell AW32 (non-foaming)
Injection Pump - Campbell-Hausfield compressor oil (ISO 100)
Cooling System - 50/50 low silicate/water (yours may have no anti-freeze)
I don't recommend 303 - or any UTF for that matter - in a Jinma. Unless the hydraulics will never be used in temps under 50F, 303 is too thick. For the straight cut gears in the tranny and diffs - it's too thin.
Assuming you're still running OE fluids, flushing is highly recommended (once you drain the original fluids, you'll clearly see why) and residual kerosene is not a problem. I strongly advise flushing the entire system; to include pumps/hoses/cylinders. Personal choice, but I prefer kerosene to diesel fuel. You simply drain the old crud, top up to the dipstick mark with kerosene, close up the system, start the tractor. Drive a few figure 8s to clean the steering, raise and lower the TPH and FEL respectively. Stop engine/drain, being careful to have a LARGE container. More comes out that you will have put in. Watch closely what comes out. I use a strainer to help determine if a 2nd flush is required, plus that way you can re-use the original kerosene. Richard made another good point about the suction filter. As a general rule, a kerosene flush will do the job without having to take off the seat - but to be extra sure, there's nothing better than the Mark1 eyeball.
Residual kerosene is volatile enough to evaporate over time, so I personally don't bother with this next step. Since the specific gravity of kerosene (~0.82) is different than AW32 (~0.86), there is a way to get more kerosene back out. This is another argument to use kerosene rather than diesel (SG ~0.84); it separates better. After your final fill let the TPH and any other hydraulic accessories down so that all hydraulic fluid gets forced back toward the reservior. Give the kerosene and AW32 time to separate, the kerosene will go to the bottom of the reservior.
But if you go the evaporation route - like me - just remember to top up the fluid levels periodically. Took only a few weeks, and awhat little residual kerosene I had - was history.
Flush the tranny/rear diff and front axle as well, drive the tractor over some rough ground. The extra agitation helps clean. Pay particular attention to achieving good flow between the transmission housing and the creeper housing (if so equipped). You'll need to flush till kerosene is freely out the creeper drain. When doing the front end, don't miss the little drains under each drive housing.
Don't forget the injection pump either. Mine had terrible looking milky something in it.
And I found horrible amounts of rust - and no antifreeze - in the cooling system. I flushed IT as well (but not with kerosene, obviously).
//greg//
We've learned not to put much stock in the fluid recommendations in the Chinese owner's manuals. Whereas the manufacturers have performed physical modifications to satisfy American buyers, few mods have actually made it into the documentation. What we get through most dealers is a verbatim translation of the domestic manuals. Plus multi-viscosity lubricants (and antifreeze) are apparently not commonly used in China, which probably explains why they're missing from the books.
In case you want to follow my lead, here's what I use
Crankcase - Shell Rotella T 15W40
Front Diff - Shell Spirax HD 80W90 (non-foaming)
Tranny - Shell Spirax HD 80W90 (non-foaming)
Hydralics -Shell AW32 (non-foaming)
Injection Pump - Campbell-Hausfield compressor oil (ISO 100)
Cooling System - 50/50 low silicate/water (yours may have no anti-freeze)
I don't recommend 303 - or any UTF for that matter - in a Jinma. Unless the hydraulics will never be used in temps under 50F, 303 is too thick. For the straight cut gears in the tranny and diffs - it's too thin.
Assuming you're still running OE fluids, flushing is highly recommended (once you drain the original fluids, you'll clearly see why) and residual kerosene is not a problem. I strongly advise flushing the entire system; to include pumps/hoses/cylinders. Personal choice, but I prefer kerosene to diesel fuel. You simply drain the old crud, top up to the dipstick mark with kerosene, close up the system, start the tractor. Drive a few figure 8s to clean the steering, raise and lower the TPH and FEL respectively. Stop engine/drain, being careful to have a LARGE container. More comes out that you will have put in. Watch closely what comes out. I use a strainer to help determine if a 2nd flush is required, plus that way you can re-use the original kerosene. Richard made another good point about the suction filter. As a general rule, a kerosene flush will do the job without having to take off the seat - but to be extra sure, there's nothing better than the Mark1 eyeball.
Residual kerosene is volatile enough to evaporate over time, so I personally don't bother with this next step. Since the specific gravity of kerosene (~0.82) is different than AW32 (~0.86), there is a way to get more kerosene back out. This is another argument to use kerosene rather than diesel (SG ~0.84); it separates better. After your final fill let the TPH and any other hydraulic accessories down so that all hydraulic fluid gets forced back toward the reservior. Give the kerosene and AW32 time to separate, the kerosene will go to the bottom of the reservior.
But if you go the evaporation route - like me - just remember to top up the fluid levels periodically. Took only a few weeks, and awhat little residual kerosene I had - was history.
Flush the tranny/rear diff and front axle as well, drive the tractor over some rough ground. The extra agitation helps clean. Pay particular attention to achieving good flow between the transmission housing and the creeper housing (if so equipped). You'll need to flush till kerosene is freely out the creeper drain. When doing the front end, don't miss the little drains under each drive housing.
Don't forget the injection pump either. Mine had terrible looking milky something in it.
And I found horrible amounts of rust - and no antifreeze - in the cooling system. I flushed IT as well (but not with kerosene, obviously).
//greg//
Paddy
Veteran Member
My KAMA instructions reccomended clean creak water or rain water!
Chip filled with the right mix.
Patrick
Chip filled with the right mix.
Patrick
Soundguy
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I don't recommend 303 - or any UTF for that matter - in a Jinma. Unless the hydraulics will never be used in temps under 50F, 303 is too thick. For the straight cut gears in the tranny and diffs - it's too thin.
)</font>
Greg.. I've got a question for you. You do realize that UTF is specced as a gear lubricant.. and that many large hp tractors use utf in final drives , diffies, and trannies.. And some tractors that it is specced for do have straight cut and spur gears...
Not disagreeing with you about the jinma specifically.. just bringing it up as a point of discussion. I realize that you have a great deal of experience with them, etc.
It's also apparent that these chineese machines, in some ways, are more related to the older technology like found in antique tractors, than some of the more modern designs.. general statement there, as I'm well aware that there are plenty of 'new' bells and whistles on them as well..
Looking forward to your answer.
thanks
Soundguy
)</font>
Greg.. I've got a question for you. You do realize that UTF is specced as a gear lubricant.. and that many large hp tractors use utf in final drives , diffies, and trannies.. And some tractors that it is specced for do have straight cut and spur gears...
Not disagreeing with you about the jinma specifically.. just bringing it up as a point of discussion. I realize that you have a great deal of experience with them, etc.
It's also apparent that these chineese machines, in some ways, are more related to the older technology like found in antique tractors, than some of the more modern designs.. general statement there, as I'm well aware that there are plenty of 'new' bells and whistles on them as well..
Looking forward to your answer.
thanks
Soundguy
Well,I'll be ******,,,you woulda thought whoever translated that into english woulda had one of those hummm,,,moments???? I'd go with fresh rain water every time though,,,course in winter would have to keep my tractor in my hut,,,but,,that shouldn't be a problem,,got a very big hut,,,keep it right besides the cow chip stove,,its to dangerous there for my babies to play anyways when the old stove is glowing red........thingy
bluechip
Veteran Member
Actually, there is a nifty handle on the block drain valve, you simply drain it at night and refill the next day, no antifreeze needed! Rain water (acid rain need not apply) is soft and does not rust up the block as much as hard water or high iron well water might. still we upgrade ours to anti freeze upon assembly, afraid someone might forget to drain or not realize a freeze is evident. We did get a jinma with a freeze plug out and a cracked block, seems someone at the factory must have forgot...
greg_g
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Looking forward to your answer. )</font>
Actually, I'm still waiting for the question
//greg//
Actually, I'm still waiting for the question
//greg//
Soundguy
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<font color="blue"> Looking forward to your answer. )
Actually, I'm still waiting for the question
</font>
I'm disapointed. I value your posts.. and was honestly interested in your answer.. Not answering a question but instead picking apart the wording is best left for politicians and lawyers..... and yes.. I know.. I messed up the wording of the question... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
Never mind. it's clear that if you are going to split hairs over a grammer problem with my post.. that I don't need to bother with a post clarifying my previous post. After re-reading my post.. I obviously made a grammer error.. don't phrase a question out correctly.. however .. that said.. I don't think it's a stretch that it should be very clear contextually to determine what I was asking.. ( why you think UTF is not suitable for straight cut gears since some other tractor manufacturers think UTF is fine for straight cut gears ).
I'll bow out now for a while now... More and more.. i see the chinese sub is getting a bit more elite every day.. I think I'll stick to old fords.. nicer crowd.. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
later
Soundguy
Actually, I'm still waiting for the question
</font>
I'm disapointed. I value your posts.. and was honestly interested in your answer.. Not answering a question but instead picking apart the wording is best left for politicians and lawyers..... and yes.. I know.. I messed up the wording of the question... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
Never mind. it's clear that if you are going to split hairs over a grammer problem with my post.. that I don't need to bother with a post clarifying my previous post. After re-reading my post.. I obviously made a grammer error.. don't phrase a question out correctly.. however .. that said.. I don't think it's a stretch that it should be very clear contextually to determine what I was asking.. ( why you think UTF is not suitable for straight cut gears since some other tractor manufacturers think UTF is fine for straight cut gears ).
I'll bow out now for a while now... More and more.. i see the chinese sub is getting a bit more elite every day.. I think I'll stick to old fords.. nicer crowd.. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
later
Soundguy
