lubricants
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Soundguy
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You'll probably get more response on this in the chineese section.. those guys know those tractors like the back of thier hands ( probably palms too! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif )
Soundguy
Soundguy
greg_g
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- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( i own ajimna 284 and have read several things on the fluids in the transmission. the book calls for a 30 weight. should i use a delo diesle 30 weight? and how do you change the oil in the rear end and what should be used? )</font>
The "book" is to be taken with a pound or two of salt in many areas, fluids is one of them. Whereas the Chinese have performed physical modifications to attempt to satisfy American buyers, their books are essentially direct translations of the of their domestic manuals. Multi-viscosity lubricants (and antifreeze) are apparently not commonly used in China, which explains why they're missing from the books.
In case you want to follow my lead, here's what I use
Crankcase - Shell Rotella T 15W40
Front Diff - Shell Spirax HD 80W90 (non-foaming)
Tranny - Shell Spirax HD 80W90 (non-foaming)
Steering - Shell AW32 (non-foaming)
Hydralics -Shell AW32 (non-foaming)
Injection Pump - Campbell-Hausfield compressor oil (ISO 100)
Cooling System - 50/50 low silicate/water (yours may have no anti-freeze)
The trans/rear diff share gear oil. It's filled at the top, just in front of the seat. It's drained from four places;
1. under rear diff (confusing, cuz it looks like a regular bolt)
2. under tranny
3. side of transfer case
4. under creeper housing (partially hidden by front driveshaft)
It's recommended that you flush the whole thing out with kerosene before refilling with the lubricant of your choice.
//greg//
The "book" is to be taken with a pound or two of salt in many areas, fluids is one of them. Whereas the Chinese have performed physical modifications to attempt to satisfy American buyers, their books are essentially direct translations of the of their domestic manuals. Multi-viscosity lubricants (and antifreeze) are apparently not commonly used in China, which explains why they're missing from the books.
In case you want to follow my lead, here's what I use
Crankcase - Shell Rotella T 15W40
Front Diff - Shell Spirax HD 80W90 (non-foaming)
Tranny - Shell Spirax HD 80W90 (non-foaming)
Steering - Shell AW32 (non-foaming)
Hydralics -Shell AW32 (non-foaming)
Injection Pump - Campbell-Hausfield compressor oil (ISO 100)
Cooling System - 50/50 low silicate/water (yours may have no anti-freeze)
The trans/rear diff share gear oil. It's filled at the top, just in front of the seat. It's drained from four places;
1. under rear diff (confusing, cuz it looks like a regular bolt)
2. under tranny
3. side of transfer case
4. under creeper housing (partially hidden by front driveshaft)
It's recommended that you flush the whole thing out with kerosene before refilling with the lubricant of your choice.
//greg//
JINMA224XR
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- Alabama Gulf Coast
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- 2004 JINMA 224XR, (1990 SHINNIU 254/sold)
Hey Guys,
This question is for anybody that knows:
I went to WalMarts to get some more 80w90 gear oil to change out my Transmission and maybe the front drive again. But right beside the 80w90 was the 85w140. So I thought for a moment and got the 85w140 instead. I've been reading about all of the leaks and have heard of others using the heavier gear oil, specifically to prevent leaks.
Has anybody used the 85w140 in the Transmission and know if it will drain ok into the Creeper Gear Housing, or have you experienced anyother problems with the 85w140 gear oil.
I read on the Super Teck containers and it is supposed to be anti foaming.
Have a nice day,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
This question is for anybody that knows:
I went to WalMarts to get some more 80w90 gear oil to change out my Transmission and maybe the front drive again. But right beside the 80w90 was the 85w140. So I thought for a moment and got the 85w140 instead. I've been reading about all of the leaks and have heard of others using the heavier gear oil, specifically to prevent leaks.
Has anybody used the 85w140 in the Transmission and know if it will drain ok into the Creeper Gear Housing, or have you experienced anyother problems with the 85w140 gear oil.
I read on the Super Teck containers and it is supposed to be anti foaming.
Have a nice day,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Harrygoodwrench
Gold Member
Hi Joe,
being that you are down in the "Heavenly" Gulf Coast area, I think you will be just fine with the 85w140. now up my way my 85w90 "flows like Molasas in January" if you know what I mean.
I keep hoping and praying for spring but it just won't come.
being that you are down in the "Heavenly" Gulf Coast area, I think you will be just fine with the 85w140. now up my way my 85w90 "flows like Molasas in January" if you know what I mean.
I keep hoping and praying for spring but it just won't come.
greg_g
Super Member
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- Western Kentucky
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- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
Has anybody used the 85w140 in the Transmission and know if it will drain ok into the Creeper Gear Housing, or have you experienced anyother problems with the 85w140 gear oil. )</font>
I operate in up to 100 degree Western Kentucky summers. 85W140 proved too thick for my Jinmas, so I won't even consider it for the KAMA. Besides being a ***** to pour into that little hole, the creeper (or shuttle as the case may be) and transfer case received very very little lubrication. It was apparently too thick to flow readily into those two (critical) areas.
If you're looking at 80W140, that's synthetic. Personal choice, but I don't believe these flat cut gears should be exposed to synthetic oil before they're well broken in. And I've never heard of 85W90, so Harry may have stumbled on something new that could bear further investigation.
For the first 300 hours on my KAMA, I'm sticking with regular old 80W90. After that, I may consider that new 75W140 synthetic
//greg//
Has anybody used the 85w140 in the Transmission and know if it will drain ok into the Creeper Gear Housing, or have you experienced anyother problems with the 85w140 gear oil. )</font>
I operate in up to 100 degree Western Kentucky summers. 85W140 proved too thick for my Jinmas, so I won't even consider it for the KAMA. Besides being a ***** to pour into that little hole, the creeper (or shuttle as the case may be) and transfer case received very very little lubrication. It was apparently too thick to flow readily into those two (critical) areas.
If you're looking at 80W140, that's synthetic. Personal choice, but I don't believe these flat cut gears should be exposed to synthetic oil before they're well broken in. And I've never heard of 85W90, so Harry may have stumbled on something new that could bear further investigation.
For the first 300 hours on my KAMA, I'm sticking with regular old 80W90. After that, I may consider that new 75W140 synthetic
//greg//
Harrygoodwrench
Gold Member
Nothing new from me on the oil. It was a typo on my part. Too many #'s this week, I meant 80w90.
All in all I don't feel 85w140 is too thick compared to 80w90 especially when used in the Gulf Coast area. I don't think anyone there even knows what a snow flake is and I wish I were one of those people.
Just my opine. Oil preferences can stir quite a debate. I can still remember my Dad and other fellows in the shop get into heated debates which to use. I say, if you feel comfortable with it "use it"
All in all I don't feel 85w140 is too thick compared to 80w90 especially when used in the Gulf Coast area. I don't think anyone there even knows what a snow flake is and I wish I were one of those people.
Just my opine. Oil preferences can stir quite a debate. I can still remember my Dad and other fellows in the shop get into heated debates which to use. I say, if you feel comfortable with it "use it"
greg_g
Super Member
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( All in all I don't feel 85w140 is too thick )</font>
I have to cite personal experience here Harry. That hack I told you about - the weed eater repairman who tried to get away with a Jinma mechanic imitation - put generic 85W140 in one of my 254s. Because it foamed about 4 inches over the full mark on the dipstick, I elected to drain it out for "the right stuff". When I removed the drain plugs from the creeper and from the transfer case - NOTHING came out. Not even a drip. Only after I poured kerosene in from the top and turned the gears with the engine, did it thin out enough to eventually flow out those two drains. At a subsequent gear oil change, 80W90 ran normally out of all four drain locations. No flushing required.
85W140 might be ok in the front diff though - if you've got enough patience to wait for 5 quarts of it ooze through that little fill hole. My only question would be how well it flows from the axle housing into the hubs.
//greg//
I have to cite personal experience here Harry. That hack I told you about - the weed eater repairman who tried to get away with a Jinma mechanic imitation - put generic 85W140 in one of my 254s. Because it foamed about 4 inches over the full mark on the dipstick, I elected to drain it out for "the right stuff". When I removed the drain plugs from the creeper and from the transfer case - NOTHING came out. Not even a drip. Only after I poured kerosene in from the top and turned the gears with the engine, did it thin out enough to eventually flow out those two drains. At a subsequent gear oil change, 80W90 ran normally out of all four drain locations. No flushing required.
85W140 might be ok in the front diff though - if you've got enough patience to wait for 5 quarts of it ooze through that little fill hole. My only question would be how well it flows from the axle housing into the hubs.
//greg//
JINMA224XR
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- 2004 JINMA 224XR, (1990 SHINNIU 254/sold)
Hey Guys,
As usual, One says do and One says Don't. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I looked at a temperature range for gear oil and it said:
+14F to over +104F for 85w140. And I doubt that I will be doing much work outside if the temperature is less than +14 degrees F.
Since I have gotten my 6 gallons of 85w140, I will go ahead and try to put it in tomorrow. And the only reason that I am using 85w140 is to try and prevent leaks. One mechanic told me that 85w140 is equal to about 40w in viscosity. Heck I don't know,, but tomorrow I will try to drop it in.
I will check and double check to make sure that I have oil in my creeper gear, transfer case, and that the oil is flowing out the drain plugs on the front drive.
I remember Dick saying that he was using straight 40w in his, so I really can't see a problem going into this. But if the oil won't flow into the critical areas, then I will have to backup and go back to the 80w90.
I missed some drain plugs on my first change, so I thought that I would try to do it better the 2nd go around.
I just hope that I don't do worse. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Unless someone says something else to deter me,, I will let you all know how it came out.
Have a nice day,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
As usual, One says do and One says Don't. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I looked at a temperature range for gear oil and it said:
+14F to over +104F for 85w140. And I doubt that I will be doing much work outside if the temperature is less than +14 degrees F.
Since I have gotten my 6 gallons of 85w140, I will go ahead and try to put it in tomorrow. And the only reason that I am using 85w140 is to try and prevent leaks. One mechanic told me that 85w140 is equal to about 40w in viscosity. Heck I don't know,, but tomorrow I will try to drop it in.
I will check and double check to make sure that I have oil in my creeper gear, transfer case, and that the oil is flowing out the drain plugs on the front drive.
I remember Dick saying that he was using straight 40w in his, so I really can't see a problem going into this. But if the oil won't flow into the critical areas, then I will have to backup and go back to the 80w90.
I missed some drain plugs on my first change, so I thought that I would try to do it better the 2nd go around.
I just hope that I don't do worse. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Unless someone says something else to deter me,, I will let you all know how it came out.
Have a nice day,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
greg_g
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Since I have gotten my 6 gallons of 85w140, I will go ahead and try to put it in tomorrow. And the only reason that I am using 85w140 is to try and prevent leaks. One mechanic told me that 85w140 is equal to about 40w in viscosity. )</font>
I see. You made your purchase before asking the question, so now you're looking for exoneration.
Don't know where that mechanic got the idea that 85W140 was a 40W engine oil equivalent. 80W90 viscosity is roughly equivalent to a 20W50 engine oil. 85W140 can't even be compared to an equivalent engine oil - it's off the charts (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html) and (http://www.ccoilco.com/webpage/images/vischart.JPG) and (http://www.synlube.com/viscosit.htm#Viscosity Comparison Table) ad nauseum.
Good luck
//greg//
I see. You made your purchase before asking the question, so now you're looking for exoneration.
Don't know where that mechanic got the idea that 85W140 was a 40W engine oil equivalent. 80W90 viscosity is roughly equivalent to a 20W50 engine oil. 85W140 can't even be compared to an equivalent engine oil - it's off the charts (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html) and (http://www.ccoilco.com/webpage/images/vischart.JPG) and (http://www.synlube.com/viscosit.htm#Viscosity Comparison Table) ad nauseum.
Good luck
//greg//