LT-155 Not Charging

[Red Horse]

I have an LT-155 (Bare tractor, no deck) that I bought used for the wife to pull a small dump cart around the yard. Doesn't have many hours on it but I bought a new battery not long after I got it in September- probably no more than five hours on it then it died. I've been fooling around trying to diagnose issue and felt it had something to do with one of the safety switches when I jumped it with my pick up and it roared to life- so safety switches were NOT the problem.

Noe someone has suggested it is not charging . I'm clueless as to how I verify that- any suggestions?

 

[beenthere]

Don't discount that the "new" battery may have gone bad early.

 

[s219]

For a start, check voltage across the battery terminals when the engine is running -- it should increase (compared to no load / engine off voltage) if it's being charged.

 

[Red Horse]

Thx guys for both comments.

 

[Red Horse]

Update-Thx to a PM from Harry in Kty., I started checking voltage readings coming out of voltage regulator-rectifier. Looks like the stator is ok but that the regulator is probably NG. According to Harry I should be getting over 13V DC out of middle lead- I'm getting 12.18. So I'm going to visit dealer svc. dept to confirm what they have listed for AC voltage coming out of stator and what they say DC should be.

By the way, in the course of fooling around I also had smoke coming out of solinoid so I replaced that. It does spin over every time now but again, given DC readings, a matter of time before battery is dead again.

 

[Richard001]

Buy a small battery charger and use that every now an then to charge up the battery.

Richard

 

[swines]

Depending upon the condition of the battery, you should see 12.6 to about 13.2 volts on the battery if the battery is charged and in good condition. A new, freshly charged battery will show the 13.2 (or slightly higher) volt reading.

The voltage regulator is a good bet as they do go bad.

Here's how you check it.

1. Check the battery before starting the tractor - note the voltage.

2. Start the tractor. Increase the throttle so the engine is running at about mid-throttle or a bit higher. You need to have it running at about 2,000 RPM so the stator output is being checked at the engine speed you use the tractor for work.

3. Look at the voltage across the battery CABLES (touch the leads to the cables and not the battery terminals). Note the voltage. Then check the battery voltage with the tractor running by putting the test probes only on the battery terminals.

You should see about 13.4 - 13.8 volts across the battery cables. Depending upon the RPM, it could be as high as 14.3 volts. The voltage check at the battery terminals should be slightly less as the battery is being charged, and the battery resistance will lower the voltage slightly.

If the voltage on the battery cables is less than 13.4 volts with the RPM advanced - you have a bad voltage regulator.

 

[Red Horse]

Depending upon the condition of the battery, you should see 12.6 to about 13.2 volts on the battery if the battery is charged and in good condition. A new, freshly charged battery will show the 13.2 (or slightly higher) volt reading.

The voltage regulator is a good bet as they do go bad.

Here's how you check it.

1. Check the battery before starting the tractor - note the voltage.

2. Start the tractor. Increase the throttle so the engine is running at about mid-throttle or a bit higher. You need to have it running at about 2,000 RPM so the stator output is being checked at the engine speed you use the tractor for work.

3. Look at the voltage across the battery CABLES (touch the leads to the cables and not the battery terminals). Note the voltage. Then check the battery voltage with the tractor running by putting the test probes only on the battery terminals.

You should see about 13.4 - 13.8 volts across the battery cables. Depending upon the RPM, it could be as high as 14.3 volts. The voltage check at the battery terminals should be slightly less as the battery is being charged, and the battery resistance will lower the voltage slightly.

If the voltage on the battery cables is less than 13.4 volts with the RPM advanced - you have a bad voltage regulator.

Thx for response. I haver replaced the solinoid and also discovered tht there was supposed to be a separate ground from regulator/rectifier to battery-not there so I added that. bottom line I'm getting about 12.2-3 volts at battery terminals when off. When running it creeps up but has NOT gone above 14 volts-actually I think it hs gone no higher than 12.8

Now I have not been checking cables but battery posts. Why is it critical to test at cables?
Appreciate your input.

 

[Red Horse]

Well guys the latest. Ordered a new regulator and Stator from JDParts on line and scheduled my "mobile mechanic" for a visit (crackerjack ex Deere mechanic who has a completley equipped service truck. Had the parts just in case.

Werll he quickly discovered a botched wiring job associated with the three wires that go to the reg/rectifier. Fixed that and numbers were better but still not putting out required voltage (AC, across two outer posts of reg/rect.) so as I had the parts, had him pull flywheel-bingo! Two of four magnets were loose and broken.

Went on line-JDParts says flywheel for an LT 155.."not available- see dealer" Jacks Small Engines lists one for $156.81. Seems a crime that flywheel is fine-just need two of four magnets.

Anyone know where you can buy magnets? or could I glue the two broken ones back in? As noted, once he fixed the wiring issue, it was putting out juice but nothing like it should-so I'm thinking- as long as I alternate the pos and neg magnets and have the two pieces of the two broken ones pared up correctly, would this work?
Bob

 

[Harry in Ky]

Will this work? Who knows, but it's no good the way it is, so what do you have to lose? If it doesn't work, you can still use the external charger while searching for a replacement flywheel.