LS SAYS A REGEN EVERY 2 HOURS IS NORMAL

FERLING · May 24, 2022

Try out running at 1500 rpm average and time it. Then run up near 2000 rpm and time it. See if there is a noticeable difference.
Workmaster 50, 60, 70 New Hollands have auto regenerations. I don't understand why LS and others don't use the same. Why would someone buy a tractor that requires you to stop every so many hours when other manufactures don't?

Rc4510 · May 24, 2022

you dont have to stop work w/LS,its better if you do keep it working and keep exhaust hot but you dont have to.the regen will carry on next time you start working and engine is up to temp.

sd455dan · May 24, 2022

deezler said:
You're saying your XR4046 regens every 4 hours? For 32 minutes each time? That's horrible.

This short mean time before regen, will burn a significant amount more diesel over the service life of the tractor regardless of how clean the exhaust output is...

No way I would even consider a new LS if they stand by that regen timing.

Agree that's Horrible

It would be telling if the ACTUAL diesel use per hour of engine run time was in their sales brochure using the 2 hour regen interval.
It would have to be more of a fuel HOG than most other similar HP tractors in its class.

shooterdon · May 24, 2022

Mine seems to regen about every 50 hours and it lasts about 20 minutes. I can live with that. I do not stop working when it regenerates so the bit of extra fuel is not totally wasted.
But I put on less than 100 hours a year. So a regen every 4-6 months is acceptable. If I was clocking 100 hours a month, I might feel differently.

ljjhouser · May 24, 2022

RobertEH
Congratulations on the tractor. Welcome to TBN.
You may already know this by now, but just in case. Tier 4 regen depends on the heat generated by the engine to burn off particulates. Most dealers, including mine, tell us to run and use our tractors at high or full rpm, permitting more heat and burn off, thus delaying regen.
When I first bought my tractor, was determined to "Baby it" until the dealer told me it was better on the engine to run it at higher rpms or full rpms.
Also, is your LS hydrostat? I was also told it is better to run the hst at more pedal to better circulate the trans oil (cooler). Meaning lower gear - more pedal when there is a choice. Don't know if that is very clear.

Of course, ALWAYS check with your LS dealer - he should be glad to give you operation advice. Doing that is ALWAYS a good idea. And I own a different brand, so have a short talk with your dealer. Best Wishes.

ljjhouser · May 24, 2022

shooterdon said:
Mine seems to regen about every 50 hours and it lasts about 20 minutes. I can live with that. I do not stop working when it regenerates so the bit of extra fuel is not totally wasted.
But I put on less than 100 hours a year. So a regen every 4-6 months is acceptable. If I was clocking 100 hours a month, I might feel differently.

This is pretty much EXACTLY my experience and timing with REGEN. Great post, lots of info and clear. Thanks

Midniteoyl · May 24, 2022

RobertEH said:
Brand new Tractor owner here. I picked up an LS MT235HE last month and so far I am having a blast! My first regen cycle was at about 23 hours.

So far I have no implements that use a PTO so I have been keeping my RMPs as low as possible/needed. Generally I work at idle, or around 1500 RPM. Will this create more Regen cycles than operating at higher RPMs would? (e.g. does operating at lower RMPs not generate the engine temperatures needed to burn off soot during normal operation)? Would it be advisable to run the engine up around 2500 RPM for a few minutes every time I have it out to burn off soot?

On my Kioti, idle is around 1100rpm normally, but I run it up to 1400-1500rpm for normal put-putting around use and then use the linked-pedal feature, on advice from others, including 2 dealers.

RobertEH · May 24, 2022

ljjhouser said:
RobertEH
Congratulations on the tractor. Welcome to TBN.
You may already know this by now, but just in case. Tier 4 regen depends on the heat generated by the engine to burn off particulates. Most dealers, including mine, tell us to run and use our tractors at high or full rpm, permitting more heat and burn off, thus delaying regen.
When I first bought my tractor, was determined to "Baby it" until the dealer told me it was better on the engine to run it at higher rpms or full rpms.
Also, is your LS hydrostat? I was also told it is better to run the hst at more pedal to better circulate the trans oil (cooler). Meaning lower gear - more pedal when there is a choice. Don't know if that is very clear.

Of course, ALWAYS check with your LS dealer - he should be glad to give you operation advice. Doing that is ALWAYS a good idea. And I own a different brand, so have a short talk with your dealer. Best Wishes.

This is very helpful! I will be taking my tractor in to have rear remotes installed in a few weeks so I will verify this when I drop it off. I too have been babying it.

Mine is a hydrostat. When you say run it at "more pedal" do you mean full petal down? e.g. better to run full pedal down at a lower gear, than half pedal down at a higher gear?

ljjhouser · May 24, 2022

RobertEH
Put the gear selector (low. medium, High) in the gear you need for the job you want to do. You are correct. For example, if you are using the loader to move gravel, you could use the medium gear, but you would have to use very little pedal while working, and as a result, would not have the power you need some of the time. And while you are working, the trans. would move in and out of low gear. (always use the low gear doing loader work.) On the other hand, just run it in low gear and use more pedal to move and add power, all in low gear. If you were driving it on the road and needed more speed, then use high gear and the transmission will shift from low, med, to high as you speed up. And because of operating with more speed you will use increased pedal to travel.

I was told that operating with lower gear and more pedal circulates a lot more hydraulic oil and the trans. runs cooler as a result. Even if you are on the road in high gear, you will use mostly pedal down to gain the speed you want. Your second statement is correct.

Another comment. I drove a truck (readymix and tanker) for many years. A gasoline engine does better adding power at low rpms (called lugging the engine) than a diesel engine. The power envelope on a diesel really begins at higher rpms. We had a rule - never lug a diesel engine. Just something to think about.

I wish I had rear remotes. I use a box blade a lot. You will like the remotes, especially if you want to add a hydraulic top link. Best Wishes, Larry

RobertEH · May 25, 2022

Thanks again for the helpful info. this is a whole new world for me.

I recently moved to Northern Idaho and I was not ready for the amount of snow (we got 6 feet las season). I worked my ATV hard all winter to keep my 250 yards of sloped driveway clear and my neighbors had to assist me 2 times - I don't mind getting help from time to time but I refuse to be the guy everyone has to bail out! Much prefer to be the one who helps others out.

My primary goal is to add a blower to the front so when I got the tractor I added a mid PTO and 3rd function (and ordered the rear remotes as they were not in stock). For the next season the loader and a blade will need to suffice. Blower is another season out but I will get there. Hydraulic top link is def. on my list as well.

Sorry for the thread hijack! Was very interested in a way to minimize regens. I was also under the impression one had to stop work to do the regen so it is nice to know that you can continue along while it does its thing.