LS Room for improvement.

/ LS Room for improvement. #61  
Glad you like it. Mine doesnt have opening side windows, but the rear opens and it has a sun roof type opening that I didnt know about till a few weeks ago. I cant turn my neck up or around that far normally. I just happened to be leaning over looking out the back window, looked up and behind me and saw this lever. What the heck is that? Turned it and about a 12" x 24" wide window in the roof popped open. I never needed venting before so just used the AC or heater.
 
/ LS Room for improvement. #62  
Post a photo of how they are routed. Dont want you to do like me and get a wheel into them. I redid mine and did an 90 up right next to the cab with a little S loop in the bottom and top. They had routed it straight forward from the distribution block and then up by the frame attachement point. The tires turn so sharp that they almost rub the frame there and will get those hoses.
Dip stick is hard to get out, but wait till you try to put oil in it. You better have one of those flex spout funnels with extra long flex as it is right behind the big ***** FEL attachment bracket. I think I ended up putting a funnel inside my flex funnel to get it straight up enough to pour.
 
/ LS Room for improvement. #63  
Did you get your tires loaded from the dealer? If not be extra careful with heavy loading the FEL because it is light on the rear end and very tipsy on a slope with a load. I still havent loaded my tires yet. I keep saying I am going to get some more antifreeze and pump in 4 gals per tire then fill them, but just too darned busy or lazy to get started with it. My dealer says that 4 gals. will keep them from freezing in the Ark. climate, might be slushy but wont freeze solid.
 
/ LS Room for improvement. #64  
DON'T KNOW HOW TO POST PICS. THEY HAVE ROUTED DOWN FROM THE TOP, DOWN PAST THE DIPSTIC AND THEN UP OVER THE FRAM. THE HYD, ARE SO TIGHT TO THE DIPSTIC, (BECAUSE THERE IS NO PLAY IN THE CABLES) IT IS NOT GOING TO BE FUN CHECKING THE OIL LEVELS. IF THE CABLES WERE NOT SO TIGHT AND HAD A LITTLE PLAY IN THEM, IT WOULDNT BE SO BAD. I WILL GO AND LOOK AT THE 7030 TRACTOR TO SEE HOW THEY ROUTED THAT ONE. BECAUSE I DON'T REMEMBER THOSE CABLES BEING IN THE WAYOF THE DIPSTICK ON THAT ONE. NO I HAVE NOT LOADED THE TYRES YET THE TRACTOR WITH THE FEL GOES AROUND 8600LBS. I FIGURE THAT SHOULD KEEP IT ON THE GROUND, THE GROUND WHERE I LIVE IS 40 ACRES OF FLAT LEVEL GROUND, LOTS OF CLAY THOUGH.
 
/ LS Room for improvement. #65  
Thats what I thought too, with all that weight it should be more stable. That however is not the case. That bucket is huge and holds a ton of dirt, rocks etc. I can literally bring the rear wheels off the ground picking up a full load or wet clay type dirt or shale rock even with a box blade on the back. I need the weight of my 1500 bushhog but then it is too long and gangly to maneuver. One day, wife wanted some dirt put into her flower bed which is on a slight slope, not much just maybe 5 degrees. I loaded up a load and keeping it low to the ground I moved it from the pile to the bed. Moving slow, I was approaching the dump point and the uphill tire hit a small clump of dirt about the size of a coffee can and it was enough to tip the tractor up on the front tire. Luckily I was really close to the ground with the load and I always keep one hand on the joystick. I dumped it to the ground and let the tractor settle back, then raised it and went ahead and dumped it. I am really mindful now of side loading and even slight inclines. This spring, I am for sure going to load my tires. $40-50 bucks per tire for antifreeze is not going to break the bank. I northern Louisiana where my Dad farmed, he used just straight water. The sometimes froze solid, but he didnt use them in the winter anyway. He said as long as the tire wasnt sweating on the outside when it warmed up after a freeze, it was oK to run. Those black tires setting in the sun thawed pretty quickly. I have pure water in my Yanmar tires and I dont think they have ever frozen but then I dont use it when it is below about 40F because it wont crank anyway without blowing hot air into the air breather. It doesnt have glow plugs.
 
/ LS Room for improvement. #66  
By the way, where did you find the weight with FEL. Tractor weight is all I have been able to find. 8600 would mean that the FEL weighs about 2K.
 
/ LS Room for improvement. #67  
Oh, to post pictures, if you have them on your computer or portable hard drive, just click on the button at the far bottom of the posting screen (you have to scroll way down) "manage attachments", then click browse, find your photo click on it and then click upload.
You may need to compress your photos first if you used a large format to get them down into the kb size range from Mb size.
 
/ LS Room for improvement. #68  
the weight of the tractor without fel is 6675 lbs. fel weight without bucket is 1892 lbs, bucket I guess goes 150-200 lbs. I found the weight of the fel (LL7100) on LS Brochure. (the one page 2011 new product LS puts out). by the way I discovered the secret to getting to the dipstick, raise the Bucket up, that releases the pressure on the Hyd cables, and you can get to the dipstick. which is still a pain the guy's at the factory must tighten the dipstick with a power wrench, I am still trying to get it loose. going by the NH TT75A (75 hp) I used to have the balance performance wasn't to bad, and combined weight tractor and fel was approx 7600 lbs. but there again the ground I was opperating on was level.
 
/ LS Room for improvement. #69  
I think 200 is way low on the bucket weight. It looks to be 1/4" plate. I would think more 400+ pounds.
 
/ LS Room for improvement. #70  
Wait till you try to get the 2 oil drain plugs out. If you dont have a set of hexhead in millimeter, go ahead and get one. I think it is 14 mm but I need to go check . I had to use a 24" breaker bar to loosen mine. I managed to get one out with a pipe wrench and took it with me to Autozone to find a hex head to fit it. The other side I couldnt get a grip on it. There isnt much oil in the other side once the one plug is out,maybe 1/2 quart at most. If I had known that, I likely would have just left it in. The oil was a clear as automobile oil, nothing like the coal black I am used to seeing in diesels.
 
/ LS Room for improvement. #71  
My Bucket is 3/16 on the sides. thicker on the bottom of course. just a rough idea on the weight of the bucket. yes I guess those boy's in NC don't want any thing coming loose, eh?. I managed to get the dipstick loose after using a Hammer and screw driver, I bet I don't put it back as tight. LOL. I had to go to NH dealer ship to buy a special Hex wrench to get the drain plug of to change the oil, on my old TT75A. what ever happened to the old 'Nut' they used to use. no special tools needed.
 
/ LS Room for improvement. #72  
Gary, what is the purpose of the clip, that you mentioned, that holds the clutch pedal in. My 5030 has the same clip. I can't imagine the reason for it.
 
/ LS Room for improvement. #73  
Gary, what is the purpose of the clip, that you mentioned, that holds the clutch pedal in. My 5030 has the same clip. I can't imagine the reason for it.

I find it handy when I don't want to get on an off to move the hydraulic stuff, but need to start and stop the engine over a period of time. With the clutch locked down, I can just reach the key and throttle to control the run without having to get on and push the clutch, when it's only going to be in neutral anyway.

But, that said, I think the main reason is for when the tractor is stored for extended periods, it prevents the clutch plates and disc from rusting together.
 
/ LS Room for improvement. #74  
That is the clip that you are "supposed" to use to hold the clutch disengaged when you store it for long periods. This keeps the clutch plate from sticking to the pressure plate. I hardly ever remember to lock mine down though.
Just depress the clutch and pull up the clip to lock across the pedal so it stays depressed.
 
/ LS Room for improvement. #75  
I never though of any of the uses for the clutch clip that you both listed.
I will use it this winter when the tractor is not used as often. Also the
idea of being able to shut down then restart the tractor without having to
climb back into the seat every time would a real time saver. Thanks :thumbsup:
 
/ LS Room for improvement. #76  
It is a pain literally for me to use that clip. Due to some lumbar problems, I cant bend over and reach the clip from the seat, therefore for me, I have to be on the ground, push the clutch with one hand and try to attach the clip with the other. I can do it but it isnt easy. I dont know how many more years I can do that though as I seem to get weaker each year. I guess I could rig up a series of pulleys and clips that I could attach the winch line on my RTV to it and depress the clutch:laughing:
 
/ LS Room for improvement. #77  
It is a pain literally for me to use that clip. Due to some lumbar problems, I cant bend over and reach the clip from the seat, therefore for me, I have to be on the ground, push the clutch with one hand and try to attach the clip with the other. I can do it but it isnt easy. I dont know how many more years I can do that though as I seem to get weaker each year. I guess I could rig up a series of pulleys and clips that I could attach the winch line on my RTV to it and depress the clutch:laughing:

Exactly my situation. Working my parking brake is about the same.

W.C. Fields said:
Sufferin' sciatica!

Best thing about my R4010: The suspension seat.
 
/ LS Room for improvement. #78  
I wish I could get my seat on the 7010 a little higher, and your right the parking brake will take off a little skin on your hand if you don't take it easy when setting. Gary, Have you tried using a Pinch bar? put the bar between the steering column and clutch pedal and press down on the bar? pedal goes down fairly easy. (standing outside the tractor)
 
/ LS Room for improvement. #79  
Operating my parking brake requires I just about put my chest on my knees. Not my lower back's favorite position. Letting the brake off is harder on my back than setting it.
 
/ LS Room for improvement. #80  
When I bought my tractor the dealers mechanic went over some things
and one little trick he showed me was an easier way to set the parking
brake. Very simple but I would never have thought of it. He said, push down
hard on the pedal, than pull the parking brake lever. Doing this you have
no hard pull on your arm.
Wish I could start remembering to let the brake off before I drive off.
Wish it had a dummy bell like my truck.
 

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