LS Room for improvement.

   / LS Room for improvement. #31  
I was hoping the pump would be an easy fix. like the old Caterpiller Engine, take off 3 bolts at the back of the pump take of the plate, take out the rubber blocker, use a hex wrench turn 1/4 and you climbed those hills like you new what you were doing. too much fuel and bang goes a piston. thats why I am a little scared to put any extra fuel to this Engine, on account of it being just 195 cu.in. I noticed the 50hp LS has a Mitsubishi Engine which is a little bigger, 203 cu.in. I think. take care. (wifes calling going to the Doc's)
 
   / LS Room for improvement. #32  
Gary. I have ment to ask you, there is a large oil Filter behind the tyre (If you are at the back of the Tractor its down on your left behind the tractor tyre) there is a portion of the Fel arm that goes to the back of the tractor (both sides) can you get that Filter of okay, as it looks real close to the Fel arm, like 3 inches clearance. the dealer I am buying the Tracter from, this is his first "P" series he has sold. its been the smaller tractors and he could not answer that question when I asked him. if there is not enough clearance then that arm will have to be disconected each time the Filter has to be changed. and that will be a bummer.
 
   / LS Room for improvement. #33  
That is your hydraulic oil filter. I just changed mine out a few days ago (50 hour service). It isnt hard at all to get to, but you need a large strap wrench as it is about 6" in diameter. Also need a bucket to put under it which I didnt use and now have lots of dust containment in the rocks under my shed. Man does that filter hold a lot of oil. That one could use a brush guard on it like I did with my fuel tank as it hangs pretty low and exposed. I have ran thru some pretty good brush and luckily not damaged it so far.
The engine oil filter sets in upside down and was completely dry of oil when I took it off so nothing leaked out there.

Note for future reference: there is a manual fuel pump before the filters that you pump (pull) with finger (cant get your hand in there) but it works. When I changed out the tank on my tractor, I didnt find a bleed valve anywhere on the system, but by pumping the manual pump several times it purged the system and she started right up. Hope it will to the same thing when I change the fuel filter. I plan to screw it on loosely then pump till fuel overflows then tighten it up, pump a few more times and hope it works.
 
   / LS Room for improvement. #34  
Boy I'm pleased to hear that, looking at The Filter It looked real tight what with that fel arm running just below the Filter. will that Fel arm take a weld? maybe a cage can be welded just in front of the Filter on the Fel arm, or maybe some thing bolted, or metal strapped. how is the Tractor on Fuel?. I have found a shop to do the deed If I need to. when I was looking at the 7030c Tractor the Bucket on the loader seemed a little skimpy thin on the sides, Is it holding up?. If not I'll get another Bucket there is a company here that trades in them. on my TT75 NH that Bush Hog loader had a very strong bucket, thick sides and base, also had all the holes drilled in case I wanted to bolt on Teeth, I would like to find one of those Buckets again. might be difficult now Rhino has taken them over, so I have heard.
 
   / LS Room for improvement. #35  
My FEL bucket sides looks to be about 3/16 or maybe even 1/4" thick. I have moved some fairly large rocks (see my avatar) with it and not dented it. I havent measured it but the sides are solid. I think the bottom and blade need some thicker metal. A tooth bar would certainly strengthen it, but I love the slick bar and how it leaves my backfill areas smooth. My tooth bar on the Yanmar always leave the tooth drag marks. I have a slight bow in my LS from back dragging and hit a stump dead in the middle so it is bowed up. I straightened it a bit with a sledge hammer. I suppose I could put it against that stump and drive forward into it and get it back in line but I am thinking that I may bend it down too much. It is about 3/8-1/2" high in the middle which doesnt bother me with loading or grading that much.
As for fuel, I think it does pretty well, but I dont have any thing to really load it up with. I dug a small pond with it in about 3 days and about 20 hours and didnt use one full tank of fuel but again I was only running about 1500-1700 rpm most of the time. A little bushhogging with a 7 foot but again nothing to load it. I just use the higher setting for 750 RPM and throttle back so it just purrs along sipping diesel. You probably wont be able to do that with the 15 foot one though.
 
   / LS Room for improvement. #36  
I happened to think of some other bucket use I did and that was to push some T post in the ground with it. No dents on the bucket but I did buckle a couple of post when they hit rocks. In many instances, I was able to push the post in the ground with just the weight of the bucket without need to apply hydraulic down force. I dont know how much it weighs but it isnt a light weight.
 
   / LS Room for improvement. #37  
Thats quite a big Rock, did it take a lot of rangling to get it into the Bucket?. when I done a walkaround on the 7030C the Tractor looked real solid, rear axles looked real solid as did all of the Tractor. the only 2 things I thought looked a little cheap were the Bucket and the steps (although the steps felt solid) but they just looked a little cheap. compared to some of the other tractors. I thought all other cab models were 108' tall, but looking at the Kubota cab heights they are 101-102'. the 7710C is in line with the rest I guess, the front of Cab the might be a little lower inside hence the Head 'nocker. LOL. oh well If I want to pay around $75000. for a tractor I might get what I want. and thats not going to happen any time soon unless I hit the big one, and I think I have more chance of Robbing 'Fort Knox' than that ever happening.
 
   / LS Room for improvement. #38  
That ole rock just hopped right in the bucket, of course I had the whole pile to push against. We had several dozen large rocks that came from digging a pond and one so larger that it couldnt be moved with a D 6 dozer, so it was just left in the pond. Contractor just kept digging around it and letting it settle till he got the depth of the pond that we needed. Dozer pushed them all into a big pile and we have been hauling them to different areas for landscaping and erosion control. We have one more that is larger than that one that will need to be moved somewhere one day. I will likely have to water ballast my rear tires to pick it up though.
 
   / LS Room for improvement. #39  
As Big as those Rocks are I would think If any thing was to tear up that Bucket they would. I have an old Girl down the road from me and If my 7010 can lift her then I am in good shape to lift most any thing. I have been trying to find out what the road speed of these tractors are, any Idea?. also I can't seem to find out too much about these Iveco Engines. being 'sleev less' I get the feeling they are a thro away Engine. just buy a new block which is good If you want to make a quick turnaround, and keep on trucking.
 
   / LS Room for improvement. #40  
I only had mine out on the highway once when I first got it just to see how fast it ran. It hauls $ss at more than 20 mph. I dont recall the exact speed, but I think it is about 23-25 MPH on the stats. It is geared so high that you need to start it in H-3 and shift to H-4 after it gets rolling. Kinda fun to run it up like an 18 wheeler and go thru all 4 sync gears using the foot throttle.
I cant run it even idling in High range in the pasture as it is too rough.
 

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