ls dealer

[GManBart]

When you buy ls parts do they say CNH or do the CNH say ls on them being that CNH uses them for their compact tractors? And are they different or is it just paint lights and grill that are different?

I've been told that the Boomer series show LS on them. Some models have different loaders, but other than that, it's just different lights and grill.

 

[Bocephous]

I bought my 4047H from Ty (Hansen Equipment) last spring. He's a hard worker and stands behind his product.

 

[Jhiphop72]

I've been told that the Boomer series show LS on them. Some models have different loaders, but other than that, it's just different lights and grill.

When/if you look under the boomers, on the rear axles, you will see LS.

 

[GManBart]

When/if you look under the boomers, on the rear axles, you will see LS.

Thanks....that confirms what I've been told by several other folks. As an LS owner, I think this is a good thing, and I know at least some NH dealers have said they would do warranty work if it was authorized by LS. I don't have a NH dealer anywhere near me, but I'm sure that would be helpful for many folks out there. R,

 

[Gary Fowler]

It's a pretty safe bet they are doing that because if you were to put pallet forks on instead of a bucket or a grapple, the weight would change significantly. This way you can figure out the total weight more accurately by adding the loader weight and the attachment weight.

I am sure you are right, but they should list those attachment weights also in their specs SOMEWHERE> A bucket the size of mine adds a good bit of weight to the picture.

 

[Hansen Equipment Inc]

I spent all day yesterday at the LS booth in Syracuse NY for the farm show. The turn out was good with lots of interest. I had spent some time checking out the new XR and XU cab tractors, they were very nice. Sadly the XR3037C did not make it up from the other show.The 37 has the same cab as the 40 and 46 and the dimensions are very close to the R3039. The XU5065C is a 16x16 power shuttle, the XU5055C is a synchro shuttle same as a U5030. The XU cab has a nice right side console. The cab on the XR series is very nice for a smaller tractor, it is layed out well with good controls and visibility. The XR4040 and 46 have the same 16x16 SS or 3 range hst. The XR3037 has a 12x12 or 3 range hst. These are good looking machines. They also had the new 63" snow blower mounted to a R3039. I will surely be ordering some this next fall. Same unit should mount to a 37 or the 74" on the XR4040,46. The J gets a 50". I had a problem with my camera but my son took a few shots with his phone, if they look good I will post them later.

 

[G3033H]

I'd love to get up to the Syracuse show, bet it is awesome !!!

 

[Hansen Equipment Inc]

Yea its a good show,lots to see. The old buildings are pretty cool too. Saturday is the last day 8:30to 4:00pm.

 

[rwork]

Hansen Equipment Co.,
I've got a question for you, or any other member who make have some input. I noticed a bit of upward play in one of my loader pins, when I was pushing down with the bucket. It is one of the upper greaseable pins, w/nut at the mount end of the loader arm. I noticed it move maybe an eighth of an inch. I believe the large nuts on the end of the pins may be nylock nuts. I snugged the nut up a bit, and it seemed to take care of the play. I was wondering how tight these nuts should be, and if a bit of play is normal. I do keep all of the loader pins well greased. Any insight is appreciated.
Randy

 

[Hansen Equipment Inc]

Randy,
Any pin that moves as you described up and down against the side walls of the pin boss or bushing is not good. If the pin is sliding in and out or through the bore,that is considered end play. Tighting the lock nut until it is snug but not chrushing the ears against the boom. I leave a 1/16" if possible. To much and end slap will hammer the grease out. To tight and the boss will wear a grove in the ear or side plates. If your bosses or pins are worn dont let it go. I would pull the pin and check this,you may also want to put the pin back in so its drilled hole for the grease is against the side of the boss that gets All the thrust against it.The pin is usaully ony drilled half way so turning it 90 degrees may help it last longer because grease only flows to the path with no resistance when pumped in.

 

[rwork]

Thanks for the info. Weather permitting, I'll pull the pin, clean and examine it, and see if it's showing any wear. I'm sure it would be easy enough to replace a pin, but I'm not sure how I could remedy wear in the pin boss. And when you refer to the "boss", I'm assuming that's the hole the pin passes through?
Randy

 

[Hansen Equipment Inc]

Yes Randy the boss is the part that the pin passes through,it is just a short length of drawn over mandrel heavy wall tubeing weided to the boom.Sometime they are fitted with a bushing,but I am sure the loader on a 3039 has no bushing. Also I said to turn the pin 90 degrees, that was wrong,I should of said 180. How many hours on your tractor? A 3039 could not have to many hours on it to wear a pin 1/8". Is this a bucket pin? Also are you using a good grease or just a EP grease? I like a grease with 3% moly. We use Phillips Conoco Megaplex3%. This is a grease for heavy equipment use and is designed for pins and bushigs. Dont waist your money on the 5%, it is not needed it is used for rock hammers and minning equipment.Hope that helps.

 

[RAYJAY]

hi Ty,:welcome:

my tractor is from Hanson also, great dealer, great service,

Jeff

 

[rwork]

Okay, after taking a real close look at my loader today, the movement is not at the pins. It's actually a bit of movement of the loader in the mounting cradle. I watched it real close and there's actually maybe a 1/16th of an inch of movement of the loader in the mount. Is this within tolerance? I"ve never actually had my loader off. BTW, I've only got 110 hrs on my tractor.
Randy

 

[Hansen Equipment Inc]

Randy,
There is always play in the cradle or bearing box you described, I would watch that it dose not get worse. There is a lot of leverage at that point,so alittle play seems like a lot. Also there was a thread I think Gary Fowler posted about his loader mount bolts,it is always good to check these. I would check them and take a close look to see if any of the lock washers are cracked and open. This happens some times when mounting a loader when they spin the bolt with a air wrench and let the nut spin. We check for this as a new machine during PDI,and when the tractor comes back for its 50 hr service.

 

[rwork]

Randy,
There is always play in the cradle or bearing box you described, I would watch that it dose not get worse. There is a lot of leverage at that point,so alittle play seems like a lot. Also there was a thread I think Gary Fowler posted about his loader mount bolts,it is always good to check these. I would check them and take a close look to see if any of the lock washers are cracked and open. This happens some times when mounting a loader when they spin the bolt with a air wrench and let the nut spin. We check for this as a new machine during PDI,and when the tractor comes back for its 50 hr service.

Thank you for your input. I try to keep an eye on all of my undercarriage mounting bolts.
We certainly do appreciate your presence here on the fourm!
Randy

 

[Gary Fowler]

Randy,
There is always play in the cradle or bearing box you described, I would watch that it dose not get worse. There is a lot of leverage at that point,so alittle play seems like a lot. Also there was a thread I think Gary Fowler posted about his loader mount bolts,it is always good to check these. I would check them and take a close look to see if any of the lock washers are cracked and open. This happens some times when mounting a loader when they spin the bolt with a air wrench and let the nut spin. We check for this as a new machine during PDI,and when the tractor comes back for its 50 hr service.

I just posted about the steering hub to axle mounting bolts that were all loose on my 7010 and was wondering if you had heard of any other issues with these bolts loosening off. This was the second time I had to tighten them. I am going back with all new 10.9 grade bolts with a special 2 piece lock washer for high vibration areas so they should stay tight now (I HOPE)

 

[Hansen Equipment Inc]

I haven't had any problems with the P series,But I do have a bulletin for the R series on the bolts for the king pin housing.They wanted us dealers to check during PDI that the bolts where tight. I had no tractors with this problem but LS had a concern about them and sent out a letter. they also checked all standing inventory. Those 2 piece lock washers should help they really hold. Also a drop of blue loctite would be good. Loctite not only helps hold the fastener,it prevents bolts from getting rusted in with the way it seals the threads. Also make sure there is no rust, dirt or paint between the parts before you draw them tight.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I haven't had any problems with the P series,But I do have a bulletin for the R series on the bolts for the king pin housing.They wanted us dealers to check during PDI that the bolts where tight. I had no tractors with this problem but LS had a concern about them and sent out a letter. they also checked all standing inventory. Those 2 piece lock washers should help they really hold. Also a drop of blue loctite would be good. Loctite not only helps hold the fastener,it prevents bolts from getting rusted in with the way it seals the threads. Also make sure there is no rust, dirt or paint between the parts before you draw them tight.

Thanks for the info. I was thinking that with the new washers I wouldn't need Loctite, but didn't consider the sealing properties to prevent rusting. I guess I will pick up some when I get my bolts. I just ordered all new bolts and washers to replace everything. I hope this fixes the problem.

 

[joemd11]

I haven't had any problems with the P series,But I do have a bulletin for the R series on the bolts for the king pin housing.They wanted us dealers to check during PDI that the bolts where tight. I had no tractors with this problem but LS had a concern about them and sent out a letter. they also checked all standing inventory. Those 2 piece lock washers should help they really hold. Also a drop of blue loctite would be good. Loctite not only helps hold the fastener,it prevents bolts from getting rusted in with the way it seals the threads. Also make sure there is no rust, dirt or paint between the parts before you draw them tight.

I have an R3039. Could you give a little more detail about the bulletin? Do you have to remove the front wheels to access these bolts and what is the proper torque. Thanks.

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