Avenger
Veteran Member
You can go the bearing number route, or after removing the bearings, measure them using calipers. Alternatively, you could take them into a bearing supplier and they can match them.
As far as "drop-in," no. The bearing on the king pin will be pressed on. The races in the "king pin housing" (what we have been calling the control arm), are also pressed in. Same with the seal. But that cast is easy enough to do with a socket and light taps with a hammer. The bearing on the king pin will need to be pulled using a bearing puller, and the new one installed with some pressing. You can use a socket and hammer, but at your own risk. Just make sure your socket or pipe only contacts the inner ring of the new bearing. There should also be a bushing inside there that is free floating. Thats number 18 in ptsg's post above. All that is for the king pin housing/control arm. I forgot that your hub also needs rebuilding. Probably need the dealer (either LS or NH) for that.
As far as "drop-in," no. The bearing on the king pin will be pressed on. The races in the "king pin housing" (what we have been calling the control arm), are also pressed in. Same with the seal. But that cast is easy enough to do with a socket and light taps with a hammer. The bearing on the king pin will need to be pulled using a bearing puller, and the new one installed with some pressing. You can use a socket and hammer, but at your own risk. Just make sure your socket or pipe only contacts the inner ring of the new bearing. There should also be a bushing inside there that is free floating. Thats number 18 in ptsg's post above. All that is for the king pin housing/control arm. I forgot that your hub also needs rebuilding. Probably need the dealer (either LS or NH) for that.