Lower link hiccup

[redka]

My JD 5103(224 hrs) developed this hydraulic problem with the lower links. With or without implement hooked up the lower links will drop about 1/2 inch then come back up. Without an implement it cycles about once/3 seconds. With implement attached it's twice/second.
Is this something I can fix, or does it need to go to the shop?
Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

 

[MikesTractor]

I'm not real familiar with the 5103 hydraulic system, but it sounds like it has a small leak in the lift cylinder. As it leaks down below the setting of your lift lever, it is trying to correct itself and raise back to the preset point. Since this is usually caused buy an internal leak, the cycle just continues to repeat. Sad to say, it usually only gets worse.

Maybe some of these Deere guys will hop in here with better news than mine. I have more experience on older Ford and Kubota than anything else.(Retired from tractors in 90) Service Manager/Shop Foreman/Mechanic, same dealer for 22 1/2 years. With a Deere dealer in the same town, we didn't see many green tractors.

I hope it's just something simple.

Mike

 

[redka]

Mike, sounds logical. I'll be watching for some other replies, and will be talking with the local JD shop man. Thanks.

 

[jinman]

Here's a quick way to check if it is a leak in the the lift cylinder, control valve, or plumbing. Raise the implement all the way up and then shut off the engine. Watch for the 3PH to slowly drop. It should drop all the way down, but may vary in drop speed depending on the seal with the inner walls of the cylinder. Most likely it is a leak in the lift cylinder as Mike suggested.

One other thing is that the 3PH is often the last thing in an open-center system. That means that if you run a remote or FEL, while they are operating, the 3PH will drop because it has no inlet pressure. This could cause the 3PH to really jump when you return the FEL joystick or remote lever to neutral and open the flow to the 3PH.

 

[redka]

Here's a quick way to check if it is a leak in the the lift cylinder, control valve, or plumbing. Raise the implement all the way up and then shut off the engine. Watch for the 3PH to slowly drop. It should drop all the way down, but may vary in drop speed depending on the seal with the inner walls of the cylinder. Most likely it is a leak in the lift cylinder as Mike suggested.

One other thing is that the 3PH is often the last thing in an open-center system. That means that if you run a remote or FEL, while they are operating, the 3PH will drop because it has no inlet pressure. This could cause the 3PH to really jump when you return the FEL joystick or remote lever to neutral and open the flow to the 3PH.

Here's a dumb question...in the first procedure above, when the engine is shut off, should the arms stay up if there is not a leak problem?

 

[Eric_Phillips]

Here's a dumb question...in the first procedure above, when the engine is shut off, should the arms stay up if there is not a leak problem?

Yes..

 

[redka]

Eric, thanks.

 

[redka]

Update- got tractor back from shop today. The problem was a defective part in the hydraulic system...a cast part associated with the rockshaft with holes for fluid passage with a o-ring seated at each hole. The surface of this part was ground very smooth except one spot over one of the o-rings. There was a small gouge there like the grinding machine slipped or something. That o-ring held for three years, eventually failing due to the gouged metal surface. JD replaced the part with a new one, no charge to me.

 

[MikesTractor]

Glad it was a quick fix. Now you can get back to having some fun...er...uh...working.

Sounds like you have a good dealer. I like hearing about dealers that step up and do what is right. Those are few and far between.

Mike

 

[redka]

Glad it was a quick fix. Now you can get back to having some fun...er...uh...working.

Sounds like you have a good dealer. I like hearing about dealers that step up and do what is right. Those are few and far between.

Mike

I was thinking about it later with the warranty already expired, they could have really socked it to me for probably $1500-$2000. But the part was clearly botched in the milling process, and it took 221 hours for it to finally break the o-ring.