loose stearing

[beagle man]

When I turn the stearing wheel, it moves several inches before the tires start turning, verry slow to react to turning, Just had the Hydralic Cylinder rebuilt, did not fix the problem,,, it was leaking so needed to be rebuilt anyway, any thoughts on this... I see no fluids on the concrete when I turn the wheel left or right, and it does stop when I get to the end of the turn... just slow to respond to the turning of the tires.

 

[psj12]

I would guess that the fluid is bypassing in the steering box. Also check the pressure output of the pump.

 

[oandhsales]

Check the hydraulic box at the end of your steering column to make sure the mounting is not loose.

 

[greg_g]

Bypass is rarely reported in the steering controller, although loose mounting bolts are not out of the question. That said, but you might want to check your work on the cylinder rebuild. To me it sounds like the steering cylinder itself is still bypassing.

//greg//

 

[MasseyWV]

Everyone seems to think the problem is related to hydraulics, but I suspect that's not where the problem lies.

Yours will look a little different, but most steering boxes have a lash adjustment screw and locknut, which is used to adjust the lash (slack or pressure) between the steering gears. Have you tried checking the lash adjustment?

 

[RonMar]

Beagle Man, exactly what type tractor are we talking about here? Does it have a steering gearbox, or is it all hydraulic, with a cylinder down in front and a rotary vane pump at the base of the steering colunm?

 

[Rich Waugh]

And just to add to the possible confusion, the tie rod ends on Jinma tractors are adjustable for lash-up in the ball joint parts. They do get loose and make for sloppy steering.

 

[beagle man]

Everyone seems to think the problem is related to hydraulics, but I suspect that's not where the problem lies.

Yours will look a little different, but most steering boxes have a lash adjustment screw and locknut, which is used to adjust the lash (slack or pressure) between the steering gears. Have you tried checking the lash adjustment?

I will look for this adjustment, the book does not have the above information, thank you for your response.

 

[beagle man]

rich, new tie rod ends, toe adj, RonMar, it is a farm pro 200 series

 

[greg_g]

When I turn the stearing wheel, it moves several inches before the tires start turning, verry slow to react to turning...and it does stop when I get to the end of the turn... just slow to respond to the turning of the tires.

To me, that still sounds like steering cylinder bypass. It's not impossible to improperly or incorrectly overhaul a cylinder. And - to the best of my knowledge - Beagles' steering last adjustment doesn't exist on a Jinma steering controller.

//greg//

 

[RonMar]

Well if it is a FarmPro 200 series, it is I think all hydraulic steering? If that is the case, then I don't think you will find the adjustment MasseyWV mentioned as I believe that is the backlash adjustment for a mechanical steering box(why I asked what tractor we were talking about)...

After you rebuilt the cylinder, did you cycle it from stop to stop several times to make sure you got all the air out of the steering system? IS the nut at the top of the steering shaft tight(wheel not turning on shaft)? How does the steering wheel feel when you (with the engine running) turn it till the tires reach their limit in either direction? Does the steering wheel stop, like it has come up against a wall, or can you still turn the wheel? If you can still turn the wheel, how difficult is it? IF your steering wheel still turns with the tires at the end stops, you are bypassing fluid somewhere, either past the cylinder piston seal or internal to the vane pump(or the wheel is turning on the shaft)...

Exactly how much steering wheel slop are we talking about here? I think mine probably rotates 2+ inches before I notice the wheels start to move...

 

[g0rd0]

you may have as the last post said air in the system. If you have a ps fluid resivoir in front of your system remove the cap lift the front end off of the ground and have someone turn the wheels full l then r as you watch the fluid. Look for bubbles.
No bubbles, then leave the tractors front end up in the air turn off the engine and loosen 1 of the connections on the steering cylinder, by hand move the front wheels full over to 1 side. Did fluid come out? Or did bubbles? Now tighten that connection and go to the other end of the cylender and loosen that connection, now move the wheels full over the other direction. If there is bubbles or foamming happening tighten and keep repeteing untill fluid runs clear.

 

[beagle man]

well folks I got the problem solved, all good advice, could not remember the model of the tractor, it is a farm pro 2425, there is a mounting bracket left side as your looking at the tractor, 4 bolts hold the plate that hold the hydralic cylinder, two of bolts are gone, bet I looke at that area a dozen times and never seen that, replaced the bolts, new nuts, tighten every thing real snug, slack is gone, so simple,,, moral of the story , clean some of the gunk off your tractor, easier to see them nuts and bolts,,, thank you all.... new to the site and love it so far. thank you again,.

Michael

 

[g0rd0]

:thumbsup: