Looking for others opinions

/ Looking for others opinions #1  

teeravis1

Silver Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2007
Messages
162
Location
Central Wisconsin
Tractor
JD 4044R
This past summer I bought a Kubota B3030SDC. I really like the tractor, it seems to have great power and everything seems to run smoothly, & it starts well in the cold. However, there are some things I noticed and was wondering what other B3030 owners thoughts were.

1-It seems the seat is tipped forward so you feel like you are always sliding off.
2-When shifting between High, Low, or Medium it seems like I have play with the lever quite a while wiggling it and hitting the brakes and Hydro pedal to get it to go into gear smoothly, this does seem to go away for the most part after the tractor has been running for a long time?
3-The tractor doesn't seem to be very good on any slight incline, it seems to have a high center of gravity. This is even with the bucket empty, I guess I thought it would be more stable on slight side hills. Is this just the Kubota or all small tractors?

For anyone reading this that is looking for a small tractor I don't want to steer you from the Kubota B3030, it is a truly great tractor. There are many more positives than these 3 minor things I mentioned. What I mentioned above are really minor issues in the big picture. When I bought this tractor I looked at Case/New Holland, Cub Cadet, Mahindra, John Deere, and as far as I am concerned in the 26 to 32 HP range Kubota is the way to go!

Thanks
 
/ Looking for others opinions #2  
teeravis1 said:
This past summer I bought a Kubota B3030SDC. I really like the tractor, it seems to have great power and everything seems to run smoothly, & it starts well in the cold. However, there are some things I noticed and was wondering what other B3030 owners thoughts were.

1-It seems the seat is tipped forward so you feel like you are always sliding off.
2-When shifting between High, Low, or Medium it seems like I have play with the lever quite a while wiggling it and hitting the brakes and Hydro pedal to get it to go into gear smoothly, this does seem to go away for the most part after the tractor has been running for a long time?
3-The tractor doesn't seem to be very good on any slight incline, it seems to have a high center of gravity. This is even with the bucket empty, I guess I thought it would be more stable on slight side hills. Is this just the Kubota or all small tractors?

For anyone reading this that is looking for a small tractor I don't want to steer you from the Kubota B3030, it is a truly great tractor. There are many more positives than these 3 minor things I mentioned. What I mentioned above are really minor issues in the big picture. When I bought this tractor I looked at Case/New Holland, Cub Cadet, Mahindra, John Deere, and as far as I am concerned in the 26 to 32 HP range Kubota is the way to go!

Thanks


I was just wondering if you had a ballast box or some kind of counter weight on you 3-point when you use your loader? This might help with stability
 
/ Looking for others opinions
  • Thread Starter
#3  
No, I did not have a ballast box, or anything hooked up on the 3 point, but your probably right. I would think that would lower the center of gravity.
 
/ Looking for others opinions #4  
teeravis1 said:
This past summer I bought a Kubota B3030SDC. I really like the tractor, it seems to have great power and everything seems to run smoothly, & it starts well in the cold. However, there are some things I noticed and was wondering what other B3030 owners thoughts were.

1-It seems the seat is tipped forward so you feel like you are always sliding off.
2-When shifting between High, Low, or Medium it seems like I have play with the lever quite a while wiggling it and hitting the brakes and Hydro pedal to get it to go into gear smoothly, this does seem to go away for the most part after the tractor has been running for a long time?
3-The tractor doesn't seem to be very good on any slight incline, it seems to have a high center of gravity. This is even with the bucket empty, I guess I thought it would be more stable on slight side hills. Is this just the Kubota or all small tractors?

For anyone reading this that is looking for a small tractor I don't want to steer you from the Kubota B3030, it is a truly great tractor. There are many more positives than these 3 minor things I mentioned. What I mentioned above are really minor issues in the big picture. When I bought this tractor I looked at Case/New Holland, Cub Cadet, Mahindra, John Deere, and as far as I am concerned in the 26 to 32 HP range Kubota is the way to go!

Thanks

Next time you need to go between ranges, try step down hard on the brakes. Let it come to a complete stop with your foot still applying the brakes. What you are effectively doing is helping to eliminate any loading on the gears. When I do this, I can easily shift between ranges.

I have yet to ever have a "hug the hill" attitude with anything but saddle type tractors. You learn what you can and cannot do with these high clearance (for their respective size) tractors. My least stable tractor I have ever owned was a Ford/NH 2120. My most stable was by far a International 454 2WD.
 
/ Looking for others opinions #5  
I drive a B2910, the prior model to the 3030 so I cannot answer question #1.

Question #2 - this is normal for every tractor I've driven and the current tractors I use (from Kubota and New Holland).

Question #3 - this is also normal for most tractors when they are in HIGH range and have an HST transmission. It could also be partially operator error as when a HST transmission is used, there is more torque supplied with less foot pressure on the pedal and less torque supplied with greater foot pressure. Consequently if you are pushing the HST pedal to the floor when your tractor is struggling to climb an incline then you are actually making it harder for the tractor to climb the incline. It is very counter-intuititve.

As for stability, loaded tires help.

Further operating the tractor without any ballast when using the loader is VERY dangerous. Please do not do that. Check your owners manual for proper ballast. It really is NEEDED.
 
/ Looking for others opinions
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I want to clarify here, I am not an evil kenevil on the tractor and try to drive on hills, but My house is on a hill so my back yard at the end has a good slight incline.
 
/ Looking for others opinions #7  
teeravis1 said:
I want to clarify here, I am not an evil kenevil on the tractor and try to drive on hills, but My house is on a hill so my back yard at the end has a good slight incline.
Sounds like my property.

But even on a very slight incline a HST tractor in HIGH range will not climb the hill, this is true for virtually every tractor model/brand with 3 range HST. Further, operator misuse, as I described above is a common issue.

With regards to using a loader on a tractor that does not have ballast, there is only one way to say this.

<start rant>

DO NOT DO IT. IT IS DANGEROUS. PLEASE DO NOT DO THIS, ESPECIALLY IF YOU HAVE A FAMILY THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO STAY ALIVE TO SEE & SUPPORT. NOT EVEN ON PERFECTLY FLAT GROUND. It is simply that dangerous. Most tractors actually suggest BOTH wheel weights and a ballast box when using a loader. It is very easy to roll a tractor when using a loader, this is especially true for an unballasted tractor.

<rant over>
 
/ Looking for others opinions #8  
Many threads address the 'sucky' Kubota seats on the B7800, B2630 and B3030. I find my seat a little annoying also but I'm glad I have it, can sit in it and operate my machine. If there is a good replacement for it, I haven't found or heard about it yet.

Your Cab model 3030 will definetly have a higher COG than my B7800 or Robert's 2910 (same machine for all intents) in large part because of the Cab.

Mr. Skurka's advice is somehow correct. Even ballasted tractors with a full bucket are deceptively easy to roll. At an absolute minimum, please have your rear tires loaded.

Please try and remember that regarding the rough shifting, this class of tractor is about 75% unaided mechanical linkages. We do not have computerized transmissions or control systems in the B series machines. The transmission shifting mechanism itself is based on technology that was patented more than 80 years ago is my guess - so - some fiddling will be required. NOW that being said, if you cannot actually get it into one of the ranges, there could be a problem. Rocking the machine, clutching, braking, generally adjusting the position of the machine at rest may be required to engage another range.

There is nothing wrong with your tractor based on your description. Enjoy it - many would give more to have one!

:)
 
/ Looking for others opinions #9  
Bob_Skurka said:
when a HST transmission is used, there is more torque supplied with less foot pressure on the pedal and less torque supplied with greater foot pressure. Consequently if you are pushing the HST pedal to the floor when your tractor is struggling to climb an incline then you are actually making it harder for the tractor to climb the incline. It is very counter-intuititve.

As for stability, loaded tires help.

Further operating the tractor without any ballast when using the loader is VERY dangerous. Please do not do that. Check your owners manual for proper ballast. It really is NEEDED.


I still don't get the whole torque thing. I would love someone to explain (in simply terms, I'm slow) how that works.:confused:

I couldn't agree more with the ballast. I have a little BX1500 that can only hold 400lbs in the bucket, however without ballast, the machine feels unstable. I ussually keep about 450lbs on the rear when working with the FEL on. It feels real solid then.
 
/ Looking for others opinions #10  
kwolfe said:
I still don't get the whole torque thing. I would love someone to explain (in simply terms, I'm slow) how that works.:confused:
I'm not a mechanical engineer type either so I don't know exactly why it works the way it does.

BUT, what I can tell you is that a HST pedal is NOT like a car's accelerator pedal.

With a car you have a transmission that is constantly shifting to adjust to the torque demands (the car downshifts when going up a hill or if you need to accelerate). Further, the engines revolutions increase or decrease as needed based on the load created by a combination of the changing demand from both the transmission and the accelerator pedal.

With a tractor
you lock the range selector into a range. For example you put it in HIGH range (notice it is a RANGE selector, the HST pedal is sort of like your gear selector). You set the throttle at the desired engine RPM, unless the engine is bogging down under extreme load, the engine RPMs will run at a constant rate regardless of the needs of the tractor. Once you have set the gear range and the RPMs, then your foot starts to press the HST pedal. At this point, the HST is sort of like the car's constantly varying transmission. When you barely push the pedal, it is sort of like being in 1st gear of a manual transmission car. . . not a lot of speed but plenty of pull to get you going. When you press all the way down on the HST pedal it is very similar to being in "overdrive" on a car's transmission, you can go a constant speed without much effort, but you can't climb a hill or pull a trailer in that gear. In effect 'overdrive' has very little torque. When you press down on the HST pedal so that it is "floored" then you have created a situation where you have very little torque, and that is fine for driving down the road but not for doing any work.

So think of a HST pedal as an infinitely adjustable torque selector or an infinitly adjustable gear selector within any given "Range" you have previously selected.
 
/ Looking for others opinions #11  
If I find it hard to change gears I just slightly back up to release the drivetrain tension and it goes right in. Same with engaging 4X4.
 
/ Looking for others opinions
  • Thread Starter
#12  
On the hydrostatic I was just wondering if anyone else had experienced the same thing, apparently that is common. That makes me feel better, now I know there isn't something wrong with mine. As far as the ballast for loader work, I know you can get ballast boxes. But if they are that big of a must anytime you use a loader, I am surprised the dealer didn't recommend I get one. Anyway, thanks for all the comments.
 
/ Looking for others opinions #13  
DAP said:
Many threads address the 'sucky' Kubota seats on the B7800, B2630 and B3030. I find my seat a little annoying also but I'm glad I have it, can sit in it and operate my machine. If there is a good replacement for it, I haven't found or heard about it yet.

There's a thread in here somehwre that says the seat from the new front cut F3680 mower bolts right up to the B3030. It's supposed to NOT have the ramp effect, and also has lumbar and seat rake adjustments.
 
/ Looking for others opinions #14  
My 7800 is the same way going between ranges. Sometimes have have to jimmy it a bit. As one poster said, and the owners manual too I believe, push hard on the brake. As for ballast, that is why I purchased a box blade. At about 500 lbs, plus loaded rears, it doubles as a pretty good counterweight, and I found it to be quite useful for loosening up dirt too. If I am going to be using the FEL for heavy stuff like gravel, then I fill three 5 gallon buckets with gravel and put them on top of the box blade for a bit more weight. I think the box blade is a pretty good bang for the buck.
 
/ Looking for others opinions
  • Thread Starter
#15  
What is the advantage of a box blade over a back blade. I have never used a box blade.
 
/ Looking for others opinions #16  
teeravis1 said:
This past summer I bought a Kubota B3030SDC. I really like the tractor, it seems to have great power and everything seems to run smoothly, & it starts well in the cold. However, there are some things I noticed and was wondering what other B3030 owners thoughts were.

1-It seems the seat is tipped forward so you feel like you are always sliding off.
2-When shifting between High, Low, or Medium it seems like I have play with the lever quite a while wiggling it and hitting the brakes and Hydro pedal to get it to go into gear smoothly, this does seem to go away for the most part after the tractor has been running for a long time?
3-The tractor doesn't seem to be very good on any slight incline, it seems to have a high center of gravity. This is even with the bucket empty, I guess I thought it would be more stable on slight side hills. Is this just the Kubota or all small tractors?
Thanks

1- I noticed the same thing on the B7800, B3030. Even on my Grand L30 the seat feels a little sloped.

2- Same thing on my Grand L, I usually have to rock the HST pedal slightly to realign the gear set to help change the range.

3- Although the B7800 and B3030 are great tractors, I also felt that the center of gravity seemed a little high for my application, and that the B's were kinda bouncy. That is one of the reasons I purchased the L over the B, I have hills, and I didn't feel that the B series offered enough stability for my application. I could be wrong, but it was just one of those "seat of the pants" things.


Jim
 
/ Looking for others opinions #17  
kwolfe said:
I still don't get the whole torque thing. I would love someone to explain (in simply terms, I'm slow) how that works.:confused:

I couldn't agree more with the ballast. I have a little BX1500 that can only hold 400lbs in the bucket, however without ballast, the machine feels unstable. I ussually keep about 450lbs on the rear when working with the FEL on. It feels real solid then.


Ok, this has been beat around a bit already, but that never stopped me before!

The HST tractor actually has 2 completely separate transmissions. One is the HST and the other is a 3 speed conventional gear transmission. It gives underdrive, direct drive and overdrive. In "H" you are putting that transmission in overdrive. The HST is a variable pump - motor device. In simple terms when you push the peddle down, there is more hydraulic flow. More flow means more speed possible, but less fluid slip (tightly coupled). Picture your car in 5th gear, you bring up the rpms, but don't slip the clutch. The engine dies because there isn't enough torque to drive it forward. But, when you feather in the clutch (slipping it), the car will drive forward with the load gradually matching the engine torque.

On stability, if you can -- move the wheel centers and rims to make them as wide as possible. Also, fill the tires, add steel wheel weights and use a heavy 3pt attachment or weight box. It will lower the center of gravity and give you more traction. It won't ever be super stable as it is up pretty high, but those things will help.
 
/ Looking for others opinions #18  
john_bud said:
Ok, this has been beat around a bit already, but that never stopped me before!

The HST tractor actually has 2 completely separate transmissions. One is the HST and the other is a 3 speed conventional gear transmission. It gives underdrive, direct drive and overdrive. In "H" you are putting that transmission in overdrive. The HST is a variable pump - motor device. In simple terms when you push the peddle down, there is more hydraulic flow. More flow means more speed possible, but less fluid slip (tightly coupled). Picture your car in 5th gear, you bring up the rpms, but don't slip the clutch. The engine dies because there isn't enough torque to drive it forward. But, when you feather in the clutch (slipping it), the car will drive forward with the load gradually matching the engine torque.

On stability, if you can -- move the wheel centers and rims to make them as wide as possible. Also, fill the tires, add steel wheel weights and use a heavy 3pt attachment or weight box. It will lower the center of gravity and give you more traction. It won't ever be super stable as it is up pretty high, but those things will help.

I'm glad we have you around to explain things clearly.... ;)
 
/ Looking for others opinions
  • Thread Starter
#19  
AB4D said:
1- I noticed the same thing on the B7800, B3030. Even on my Grand L30 the seat feels a little sloped.

2- Same thing on my Grand L, I usually have to rock the HST pedal slightly to realign the gear set to help change the range.

3- Although the B7800 and B3030 are great tractors, I also felt that the center of gravity seemed a little high for my application, and that the B's were kinda bouncy. That is one of the reasons I purchased the L over the B, I have hills, and I didn't feel that the B series offered enough stability for my application. I could be wrong, but it was just one of those "seat of the pants" things.


Jim

Thanks for your input Jim. Does the L series have a wider footprint? How does it have a lower center of gravity?
 
/ Looking for others opinions #20  
kwolfe said:
I still don't get the whole torque thing. I would love someone to explain (in simply terms, I'm slow) how that works.:confused:

I couldn't agree more with the ballast. I have a little BX1500 that can only hold 400lbs in the bucket, however without ballast, the machine feels unstable. I ussually keep about 450lbs on the rear when working with the FEL on. It feels real solid then.
kwolfe,
What you have with a hydrostatic transmission is a variable displacement pump that is being powered by the engine and you are controlling the amt of fluid that the pump pumps per revolution (its displacement) with your foot pedal. The output of the pump feeds a hydraulic motor which in turn powers your wheels via gears in the speed range you select. With your foot off the pedal the pumps displacement is essentially zero so no fluid goes to the motor and no torque to the wheels. Since nothing is really happening the pump is easy for the engine to turn. When you press the pedal a little, the pump starts pushing fluid to the hyd motor. The engine does enuf work on the pump to pressurize the flow to the motor to a great enuf extent to cause the wheels to turn. If the wheels are hard to turn the pressure rises, increasing the torque developed by the motor, until they turn, OR, an overpressure level is reached, causing the fluid to dump straight back to the hyd reservoir bypassing the motor. The torque available from the hyd motor is system limited in this manner. Since you have only pushed the pedal a little the pump is only moving a little fluid and the engine has no trouble turning it even at the point where the pressure fully rises to the limit set by the dump/relief valve. If the wheels wont turn by the time you reach relief pressure there is little you can do to increase turning force with the pedal. Flooring it just increases the amount of fluid pumped thru the relief valve and consequently the HP required to pump it. The engine bogs down while forward thrust increases perhaps1%. If you have a lower gear you must use it to mechanically multiply the torque of the motor enuf to turn the wheels.

Now, in a different circumstance where you become mobile below full system pressure, pushing the pedal down increases pump flow per revolution. The motor resists this increased flow causing pressure to rise to the point necessary to accelerate the tractor. - - The motor torques harder, spins faster, and the tractor moves faster. The engine works harder to provide for this gain. When you exceed what it can do it slows, you ease up the pedal to decrease flow. Requirements on the engine are relaxed, but if the tractor motion is resisted at a high enuf level the flow pressure will continue to rise to its relief limit and the hydraulic motor will stall. Time to downshift the gear range. Its a balancing act.
Larry
 

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