Looking for ideas on how to build the best low to no maintenance deck

[dstig1]

I've seen many types. I've lived with PT and cedar. I vowed I would not have a deck that needed that kind of maintenance again. This house, I built the deck to take a double PT plywood deck over PT framing, and then cement board and porcelain tile. The cement board under the tile will be waterproofed with redguard, and I have a roof over every deck. 2/3 decks will also be screened in (state bird = mosquito). It will need cleaning like anything of course but I will not have to deal with mold, staining, rot or any of the BS that comes with decks. It is not as easy to do, but it will last.

It sounds like most or all of your wood was not PT, even the structural stuff. That is probably the biggest reason why you are having issues so soon. Don't make that mistake again. Use PT, and if you can find it, ground contact- or marine- rated stuff is best. Can't always get it in joists and beams though. Posts are more common for that. Without PT in that warm moist climate, it is going to rot fast. PT isn't forever, but it will extend the life a long time, especially if you treat any cut ends - especially any near the ground. Ask any paint store for the PT stuff (local place called it the copper coating as they primarily use copper in PT these days since the enviro-wackos got the govt to ban the arsenic-based PT solution, based on no real science whatsoever).

Another voice in the wilderness. Good luck.

 

[ultrarunner]

30 years ago I rebuilt residential privacy fences and used the green 40 year pressure treated posts... not one issue yet...

At the time I thought it was the greatest thing going and much less than heart redwood.

On the ranch there are some heart redwood with square nails dating back to the late 1800's as is the 1860 barn...

My parents have a tile set in concrete elevated deck... all the steel is heavily galvanized and zero issues... the first owner was a steel fabricator... even the fence post are 4x4 heavy galvanized... only one I have ever seen like it.

Washington can have earthquakes so and massive elevated concrete deck would also require seismic bracing.

I may just end up reducing the deck area...

If I could find a good Trex type plank I have though about welding up steel beams and posts... doubt I could afford for the galvanized stuff like they did years ago.

 

[MossRoad]

...

Previous owners rebuilt it and all wood was milled on site... ...

That's probably why its failing. Its not pressure treated. You guys got wet air down to a science out there. :laughing: Our pressure treated deck is about 19 years old now. The posts and framing is all fine. The decking boards are cupping a bit in some places, but that's my fault for not sealing it well every few years. I think I've only done it twice since new. Should be more frequent.

 

[Midniteoyl]

The problem with failing composite decking is UV. It must have a good amount of high quality UV stabilizer in it. Many didnt (cheap). Composite decking, regardless of what they say, should also be coated with a UV blocker once in awhile.

 

[CreekyB]

I will agree that dollar for dollar nothing beats a properly built pressure treated deck. It need to have proper support, everything must be installed with drainage in mind in wet climates. Major joint areas, notching around beams and attachments to structures need to be flashed properly to prevent rot.

As far as upgraded highend decking goes in my area it is hard to beat Ipe or Cumaru. They are often right at or cheaper than the cost of composites, will last just as long if not longer. They also have the added benefit of being able to refinish if need be. With upgraded decking the supporting structure becomes even more important, you are expecting long service, it absolutely needs to be built properly. And at the end of the day I simply prefer real wood over plastic

 

[jfh28]

there's only two natural decay resistance woods that I am familiar with....cedar and redwood......both of which will be very costly and usually only found on high end homes.......synthetics like trex in my experience are slippery as all get out when wet and almost un-walkable in the winter with ice or snow......the raised wood like pattern they put on them are useless for providing grip........pressure treated is the most common and is usually found made of southern yellow pine......properly constructed the main structural beams and joists should last a long time.....decking will weather from the rain and sun........keep in mind that since they changed the treating formulation galvanized nails are not recommended any longer as they will corrode....same with hangers......you have to use fasteners that are approved for the new formulation on pressure treated woods........Jack

 

[cqaigy2]

We did Azek pvc decking with bankirai rails. Nice things about the Azek is it doesn't get real hot in the sun, no slivers, not having to retreat it every year, very stain resistant doesn't seem to breakdown from UV, yet. It is expensive. We've done some PT decking, but it didn't last as long as i'd hope, but maybe we did something incorrect when installing, probably the same thing others are doing, as their PT decks don't last very long either.

 

[ultrarunner]

I've been reading up on steel framing for decks...

This is one link about it.

Framing Decks With Steel Joists| Professional Deck Builder | Framing, Building Materials, New Jersey

 

[dragoneggs]

I have built several decks for my two homes and for family/friends in the great PNW. Decks around here stay wet for long periods. I have always used PT wood (slit penetrated preservative) for all of the structural beams, posts, and joists with no direct burial of posts. I set them on cement blocks or pouring. No issues in over thirty years. The decking is another story. I always use 5/4 cedar (tight knot because I cannot afford clear 2x4s). This does deteriorate over time and needs to be replaced after twenty years even with preservative stain applied every once in awhile.

My next deck (expansion and resurfacing) on my current home that I plan to die in will be the composite (Trex or equivalent) or the Ironwood that looks so much better if I can afford it. I do want to eliminate the nail/screw penetrations through the top of the decking in any case though. I will still use PT fir for the supporting structure.

 

[Dutch445]

i'm currently building an outdoor farm style table out of IPE,
have plenty of extra drill bits (all holes need pre drilling and pilot holes, and countersink)
i'll start a thread on the build shortly, need to get past the point of no return (changes)
before i post and get everybody's "if it were me i'd ..........."
get enough coming from significant other!!