Long Shot - looking for color of running light wire L3800

[ctgoldwing]

I am planning to use the left rear running light hot lead at the light to power a relay coil. The relay contacts will then switch on my new LED rear work lights. My wiring diagram for the tractor does not call out the colors of the wires
Because there is little slack in the wires there it is going to be a minor pia to cut & splice in the new lead. I'll probably end up having to splice in a small extender piece to make this work. I'd rather to this only once. If I'm not sure which wire is which I'll just guess & hope
Anyone know?

 

[Fallon]

I'd tap into the aux plug taped under the left fender. You'd need a switch on the ROPS or something. Which wouldn't be as fancy as putting it off a relay for the dash lights. But I've found enough value on the separate switches for front vs real LED bars on my cab setup. I road my machine a lot. I'll turn off the bars temporarily to avoid blinding oncoming drivers but leave the dim headlights on so I'm still visible.

 

[sea2summit]

I got an install kit from tractor supply I was very happy with, especially the switch. Mounted awesome, inline fuse etc. ready to go. Had it in there maybe 200 hours now?

 

[s219]

This should be super easy to determine with a multimeter. But sounds overcomplicated to me. I'd want a separate switch for the work lights. I ended up putting in two switches, one for front lights and one for rear lights. Rarely do I want them both on at the same time. Not sure I see the advantage of having work lights come on with tail lights. In fact it could be a disadvantage if they are really bright.

 

[Roadworthy]

My L2501 already had a worklight connector taped to the harness under the left rear fender. The circuit is fused at ten amps. I got a connector to plug into it, added a switch, and use it to power my light bar. My LED light bar draws five amps so I'm well covered. I do plan to add a relay powered by this circuit later for more accessories but this will carry me until I do that.

 

[nybirdman]

As stated;your machine is already wired for extra lights;just need a switch and connector.

 

[Peter 315]

Under the left rear fender there is I wire that's hot when the tractor is running ,The factory work light has a off/on switch .. This is how I wired mine...

 

[oosik]

I had an extra wire up under the right rear fender. It runs my single rear flood light.

 

[ctgoldwing]

Thanks for the replies. The additional switch was my first thought. I actually cut off the 'work light connector' and wired it to feed a 6 position fuse block. The only things I am powering from that are my new camera installation (draws less than an amp) and the 2 LED work lights (draw a total of just over 3 amps). I was going to use a switch from the fuse block to the lights but the more I thought about it the less I wanted to install the switch (I already bought it). I don't drive the tractor on the road so how bright they are doesn't matter.

S219 you are right on. I'm an idiot and never noticed the plug right there. A multimeter is the answer and as an EE I just happen to have one

 

[Fallon]

As a reference for others as you already cut of the plug.... Original 2 pin Power connector for VHF/UHF Power cords - Power source side | Powerwerx is the connector under the fender. Don't remember if the tractor side is male or female. But its a common ham radio plug. They have the matching plug at Powerwerx as well if I got the gender wrong.

All the Ls have them. Open station is under the left rear fender. Cabbed Grands have it under the pillar cover behind the left door.