Logsplitter

[Deerlope]

15 tons is alot and you can always turn up the relief valve. Ash & oak don't split hard unless you get into a burl. Me , I am usually splitting them snarly old sugar maples.

 

[JimR]

Nice job on the splitter. Your splitter beam should be fine. I used that same beam on my splitter. The only difference was I made a much wider wedge on the end of the beam. I had to weld two pieces of angle iron into the corners to beef it up. I have twisted it a few times with large knotted pieces of wood. But it always came back straight. Now I need to rig it up for 3pth as I sold my old tractor that I used it on in place of the backhoe.

 

[dullpain]

While I was sitting there in front of the woodstove in the shed contemplating my folly, I looked over at the old Monkey Wards rototiller (with the prefectly good 8hp B&S engine) that we never use any more and thought 'I really should have went with the 16 gpm pump.'

Wish I had a nickel for every time I made something "work" on a project and when finished look around the shop only to find I had something that would have worked better!! Guess I have too much stuff!

 

[bobodu]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Guess I have too much stuff! )</font>

Ha ha...good one!!
Always wanted to own a store...sumpin' like..
Things you need today...but threw out yesterday!

 

[beenthere]

When you weld the wedge on the splitter, contemplate a slight angle to it (top to bottom) of about 5° slanting towards the ram. My splitter has that and it seems to pull the wood down a bit, not letting it slide up and off the wedge so easily. I didn't really notice how well it worked until the last time I split, and my 8hp engine stalled because the starter (rope/spring) hung up, and another splitter (without the slanting wedge) was used to finish the job. Its annoying when the log to be split just rides up on the wedge.
As well, the wedge on mine widens out to about 5" at the back in about 7" of wedge length. This might not work so well if the wing is added to get 4-way splitting.

 

[rswyan]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( When you weld the wedge on the splitter, contemplate a slight angle to it (top to bottom) of about 5° slanting towards the ram. My splitter has that and it seems to pull the wood down a bit, not letting it slide up and off the wedge so easily. I didn't really notice how well it worked until the last time I split, and my 8hp engine stalled because the starter (rope/spring) hung up, and another splitter (without the slanting wedge) was used to finish the job. Its annoying when the log to be split just rides up on the wedge. )</font>

BT, that's a great idea - one I hadn't thought of - thanks much !

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( As well, the wedge on mine widens out to about 5" at the back in about 7" of wedge length. This might not work so well if the wing is added to get 4-way splitting. )</font>

Yeah, I've been toying around with what to do in this regard, with both the fixed wedge and the 4-way. I think Timberwolf uses the wide rear spread on the fixed wedge and then the 4-way is just built to accomodate that and just slides over the fixed. I've seen and used splitters where the wedge spreads out like that - they usually make short work of splitting - often with a POP !. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I would think that a wedge without the spread on the rear would have more of a tendency to hang up and get a log stuck on it.

 

[rswyan]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( 15 tons is alot and you can always turn up the relief valve. )</font>

Right - turning up the relief valve would be interesting. The valve I'm using has the relief set at 2250 psi, rated @ 2750 psi max and the pump is rated for 2500 psi w.p, 3000 psi max - so I could go up a little if I need to - but the valve is double-detent - it detents in both directions - forward and reverse - and the detent is set to release at 2000 psi - I suppose I should be able to just hold the valve forward if I want to go higher than 2000 psi ..... dunno.

I'm not sure what type of maples we have here - red, silver, and sugar are indigenous - looking at pictures of leaves, my guess is that it is mostly red maple. Most of what I have split (by hand) has split fairly easily so a splitter ought to make short work of it - if get into gnarly burl I guess I'll just mash it a few times /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

The woods here have been unmanaged with dense growth resulting in alot of tall, spindley trees with little crown, and no large limbs. Of course there are a few exceptions to that - three of which are right around our house - all of which need taken down.

 

[powerstroke2000]

It lasted about two months the last two we built were out of box tubing you have more strenght that way here is spiltty 4 I will post splitty 5 tommorrow
splitty 4

 

[rswyan]

PS2K,

Definitely looks very heavy-duty. I had seen the pics of splitty 4 before on another thread I think - hadn't noticed the box tube though. Looking forward to seeing splitty 5 /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[powerstroke2000]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It lasted about two months the last two we built were out of box tubing you have more strenght that way here is spiltty 4 I will post splitty 5 tommorrow
splitty 4 )</font>


The new pictures were add just now so they should be up soon.use the link above.
5 is about the same as 4 besides for the oil tank is the axle the splitter sits on hold about 6 gallons has a 10hp motor with a 22gpm pump it will build 3000psi but the motor doesn't have enough power to hold that much pressure for long. 4x24 cly with a 2" rod instead of the 1 1/2". The four way has a
1 1/2" slot in it for the wedge to float up to prevent binding between the wings and the beam otherwise it will bend the wings up. It has 12"Geo Metro wheels and hubcaps /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
note we even put the serial number on the push plate /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[armyof1]

I tell yea it nothing like building something you going to get a lot of use out of I made mine to use at home so I used a 1hp phase 1 electric motor quiet to use you can talk normal level around it but again I don't plan on taking it to the woods with me. I have not seen anything I put on it not bust I can post pic if anyone wants to see it

 

[rswyan]

Made a little more progress yesterday - got the wedge mostly welded on (angled into the log, thanks BT) - still need to lay a little more bead in, in a couple of spots, and fabbed up the mount for the valve and got it welded onto the I-beam.

 

[rswyan]

Close up of the valve mount. The extra space is in case I get real inspired (or just extremely foolish /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif) and decide to add a selector valve and put a hydraulic log lift on it.

 

[beenthere]

Yes to the 'seeing' pics of your set-up. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[rswyan]

I made this table grate out of some leftover stuff I had lying around. The T-posts are from some old (1950's/1960's) industrial shelving found in the attic of the shed when I was storing stuff up there - pulled them out knowing that I'd find something to use them on.

The assembly in the attached image will be welded onto a 8" x 6.5" x 1/4" plate with 4 bolt holes drilled in it, so that it can be bolted onto the plate welded on the end of I-beam. The table is 24" wide and about 20" long.

The table grate is to catch the pieces of the log after it's been split in case you want to split it further. In any event, it keeps you from having to bend over to pick up the pieces - which is a good thing in my book.

 

[rswyan]

Another shot of the table grate from a different angle.

 

[beenthere]

You are making good progress. Thanks for the pics, and congrats on the good welding, cutting, and fabrication techniques.
Do you go by a design you have drawn out or are you designing and fabricating as you go?
That table grate is a 'grate' idea. My splitter has the square tube that the 'pusher' wraps around. It works great but precludes attaching anything like the platform you have. I sometimes park a large firewood round in that location and use it as a 'table', or use the FEL bucket as a table, bringing up the large rounds in the bucket and using is as a table also.
Carry on, and keep the pics coming if you would, please.

 

[rswyan]

Start of a 3 point assembly. I have some concerns about weight of the unit and mounting it on the 3 point hitch, as well as whether or the 3 point assembly I'm constructing will bear the load. The "T" section is constructed out of 3" x 2" x 14" tube, the angle braces are made of 1 1/2" square tube with a 1/4 wall.

The beam currently is 8' 4" - which is a tad long - probably about 2' longer than I need it with the current cylinder that's on it. The beam weighs a little over 192 lbs. The cylinder weighs about 70, add another 25 pounds for the fixed wedge, 35 lbs. for the 6.5 hp B&S motor, 100 lbs. for the hydrualic tank filled with fluid, plus miscellaneous items (valve, hoses, additional plate) and it has got to be over 500 lbs (which well within the specs of tractor ..... but) - without even setting the first log on it.

The concern is the leverage being exerted due to the length. Thoughts ?

 

[rswyan]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Nice job on the splitter. Your splitter beam should be fine. I used that same beam on my splitter. )</font>

Jim,

Thanks. Glad to hear you had good luck with the same beam - it sounds like it's pretty durable. The two pieces of angle you welded on - that was welded from the top flange to the bottom flange of the i-beam, on the outside corners correct ? (Making sure I got the right picture)

 

[beenthere]

Is there room to move the beam closer to the tractor, and attach the 3pt lift a foot or two from the beam end. That might put more between the 3pt arms than there is room, but it would leave the 'work' area available. Just so you can get at the engine to start, adjust, fill with fuel, check oil, and add hyd. fluid, etc.

Thinking something like some of the boom poles, that one end actually attaches to the tractor drawbar, and the 3pt lift arms attach to a yoke coming from around the boom.

Adding counter weights on the front end, with or without the FEL, would also be an option. Doubt you will put more than 300 pounds of wood on the splitter.