log splitter

   / log splitter #1  

alexcocco

Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2001
Messages
29
Location
pa
Tractor
NH 1520
i have been thinking of getting a 3pt log splitter to run off the tractor hydraulics, any input about brands, also what is a closed center vs open center hydraulic valve, how would you tell the difference, my tractor has a loader and i had an aux valve installed on the tractor when i bought it. i have a NH 1520, but i cant figure this center deal out. any help would be appreciated.

alex
 
   / log splitter #2  
Alex,
I'm going to piggyback on your post, because I am also looking for a hydro log splitter. We can both benefit from the responses
 
   / log splitter #3  
Hi Alex,
I have a new Gearmore 3PH log splitter that works well. Very heavy construction. I use mine on a L4310 Kubota but any Catagory 1 3PH should work. I like the models that stand straight up verse horizontal so you can roll the heavy pieces onto the base. The horizontal models you have to lift the logs in place or use some sort of table. I have split about 4 cords so far. I paid ~$1300. Attached is a photo.

The model I have has open center hydraulics in series with the loader and Tip-N-Tilt valves. On a open center system the Hydraulic fluid flows at the max GPM rate with no back pressure through the valve until you pull the control lever. When the lever is pulled, the oil is diverted to the cylinder making it move and creating pressure. Most Loaders work this way. If in doubt, ask your dealer. I paid $50 to have the neccessary quick couplers installed by the dealer. Hope this helps.

-Roger
 

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  • 5-32049-GearmoreLogSplitter2.jpg
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   / log splitter #4  
Does anyone own one fo the Northern Hydraulic's 3PH splitters? They are $400, but I think don't include the control valve which woudl add $125 or so.
 
   / log splitter #5  
RMulkey - Wow, I'm jealous! That must be the Harley Davidson of splitters (I'm making that Tim Allen sound)!/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif I've never used a vertical splitter. Have you had experience on the horizontal kind as well? How do they compare? Is one harder on your back than the other? Is one safer than the other? Sorry for the questions, but I've been looking lately, and am interested in your perspectives. Thanks in advance.
 
   / log splitter #6  
I've used the horizontal kind, but if I ever bought one, it'd be the vertical type. Some of those logs get heavy to lift onto the horizontal ones./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

Bird
 
   / log splitter #7  
Corm, I have used a horizontal splitter once. I do not consider myself a log splitter expert. I just own one. The problem I had with the horizontal splitter was you have to lift the big logs up on to the bed to get them on the splitter. When the log splits, you have to lift the large pieces up on to the bed again to split them again. I admit I am lazy and this got old. With the vertical splitter, you roll the log in place and split off a piece. Then rotate the log again and split some more. There are some splitters that have a 4 way spliter on the base, but the prices were about $2.5k and I could only find a horizontal model. I really don't know if there is any safety differences.
Hope this helps.
 
   / log splitter #8  
The log splitter we have can swing between horizontal and vertical. This makes it the best of both worlds. For large logs we stand it vertical and just roll them into place saving the lifting. For smaller logs we have found that having it horizontal is easier since we are standing to run it instead of all that bending and squatting. Can normally catch the logs as they split to either split them again or toss into the truck.

Of course, when we have lots of help, one person uses a log for a chair and sets there running the splitter. Someone else feeds them the log while someone else loads the splits.

Ours is a tow-behind though not a 3pt.
 
   / log splitter #9  
I spent a summer working on a farm splitting farmwood hour after hour after hour bent over one of the horizontal splitters. I think its a device made for torture... :cool:

One of my thoughts on using the tractor was to get a splitter that the JD could run. I'm having second thoughts about all this. For the last couple of years I have been splitting firewood as I need it with a simple splitt'n wedge on a stick. This seems to work real well. I only have to split a little at a time as I need wood. My father split roughly a third of a cord in an hour or so of work. I really think this wedge on a stick is faster on most logs than a log spliter. Logs that have a bend or fork can be a bit tougher.

The problem with most log splitters is that the operator is bent over all the time and that is real hard on the back. I saw some sort of a timber tool, and I think it was a splitter, in the ad section of Small Sawmill and Woodlot magazine. What caught my eye was that the operator was not bent over.

It kinda of hit me that I could use the FEL to load up a bunch of wood, I do this all the time anyway, and use it to hold the wood at a comfortable level. If the wood spillter was waist high then you could run the thing for along time without having to bend over except to pick up the splits. There just needed to be a way to keep the splitter at the right hight.

Tain't figured that part out since I don't have a splitter and I think this part will be very splitter specific. I suppose you could build a bench to hold splitter and use the FEL to hoist it into place. Then use the FEL to bring in the logs.

I noticed how easy it was to us the FEL to load the truck. I don't dump the wood in but stack it by hand. This is very easy with the FEL at just the right hight. Since I don't have to really lift UP there is very little work.

If I ever get a log splitter I don't think I'll have one to hook up to the rear of the tractor.

Just my thoughts....
Dan McCarty
 
   / log splitter #10  
I'll soon be purchasing my first tractor. One attachment that I was considering was a log splitter.

If the tractor has one of those safety devices that shuts the tractor off when you get out of the seat /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif , how do you operate the splitter?

I couldn't trust my 3 year old to sit in the seat. The power windows in the back of the car get a work out, I can't imagine what he'd do in the drivers seat of our tractor. /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Kip
 
   / log splitter #11  
That's a good question.

<font color=green> MossRoad </font color=green>
18-85239-int2500b.jpg
 
   / log splitter #12  
Kip
On my jd4300 the engine will run just fine without anyone being in the seat. The only time the engine will shut down when pressure is released from the seat is when it's in gear or in my case when the hydro peddal is engaged. I can also run the pto without being in the seat. Just start it up, make sure the parking brake is set and pull the pto lever - round and round she goes.

Jerry
 
   / log splitter #13  
Alex,

I would agree with Roger and like the vertical splitters. I have a Bush Hog splitter that is horizontal and it does get old setting the logs if you are splitting a large amount of wood. Bush Hog no longer makes splitters and I picked mine up for under $400 from a dealer that was closing his doors. For the price I decided I could live with the horizontal unit.

MarkV
 
   / log splitter #14  
NorthernTools splitter

I bought their splitter in Sept 2000 for my NH TC40D. Their catalog description is pathetic. It DOES include a control valve (though it doesn't have the auto-return when done feature), and so all you need are two hoses, a couple of 3/4" pipe elbows, and quick connectors (and any reducer couplings). Both hoses are 1/2" two-wire, with 3/4" male pipe fittings (got these from Northern Tools as well).

For the past 7 years I have rented a towable splitter from the rental store, and because I was paying by the day, felt compelled to do all the splitting in one very long day (2 people slaving, unable to stand up the next day). Although not as fast as a dedicated splitter, I got the job done just fine, and was able to spread out the work....cut some, spit some, stack some, take a few days off, repeat.

I split about 5 cords of mostly maple this year, spreading the work out over a two week period. This is the greatest benefit of owning your own splitter!

Now, the details about the NorthernTools splitter:

- It is very wide at the bottom of the 3-point hitch (~33" but 39" at the end of the lower pins), wider than any other implement I have, almost rubbing on my tires. So no rough-riding. You don't want to be pushing logs around in the woods with this thing attached! Plus it is kind of long, so you have to watch where you are going.
- The vertical height of the 3-pt attachment seems wrong for a CAT-1 hitch. I have a hydraulic top link, which at its shortest length is about 1/2" longer than the standard top link. As a result, the splitter isn't level unless when at chest high. When I put the hitch down to the ground to load those huge logs, it has a 10 degree slant downwards. No big deal, and actually an advantage, as the weight of the log sliding against the wedge keeps the log in place. At normal splitting level, there is probably a 5 degree slant down. It wasn't worth swapping out my hydraulic top link to see if that would decrease the angle.
-It is very powerful. The huge 24"+ base cuts didn't slow it down a bit. The rental units would choke at this point.
-It is 1/3 slower than dedicated units. I attribute this to less gpm. Even the rental-type units turn out 14 or so gpm, and my tractor only 9.8 (in theory).
-The control valve is very robust, so after about an hour, you get tired of pushing it back and forth. So I added an 18" copper pipe cheater bar which fixed that problem! Again, you have to push both ways, and because it is a bit slow, it seems to take forever (those arms are a bit rubbery after a while!).
- I run it off of a second rear remote valve (the first being for the hydraulic top link), which is controlled by a center-open valve in the fender. Center open (as far as my limited knowledge and experience can determine) means that if you let it go, there is neither "in" or "out" pressure on the piston. It stays where you last put it by pushing the lever up or down. While a center-open valve works great for the top link, it doesn't work so well with the splitter, which has its own control valve. To solve that problem (don't tell anyone), I jam the seat belt end into the slot in the fender to keep the valve all the way open (works great!). That pushes the hydraulic pressure to the control valve on the splitter. The only downside is that to lower/raise the 3-pt hitch, I have to release the valve on the fender.
-The 3-pt hitch doesn't go down far enough to attach it, so you need to raise it about 12-18". It is only 200 or so lbs, so I put it on a nursery cart and roll it around that way.
-Keep the neighbors away...no borrowing! This is a very expensive log splitter to run when attached to an expensive tractor! 30-40 hp tractors with an attachment + loader rent for $250 to $325 per day, while a splitter alone rents for $75/day. And, of course, none of the other neighbors' tractors have rear-remotes, so it is useless to them.

So the bottom line for me? It is a good long-term investment because I only split at most 6 cords per year (I cut the trees down myself), and seasoned cords go for about $130 around here. The rest of the time, it is idle. Frankly, I have enough other engines to worry about, so this is one less engine to maintain. Plus, it is small and easy to store. I like using the tractor's hydraulic supply as well (the PTO-driven splitter models have their own pump and tank). By the way, the splitter piston and hoses didn't drop the hydraulic level any noticeable level.

If you are in the log-splitting business, then by all means, go for a better unit. But then you would also be looking at automatic feeders, cutters, etc., and be spending $50K. For the price and what I need it for, the NorthernTools splitter was a true value.

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by Kent on 12/14/01 01:56 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
 
   / log splitter #15  
I have heated my house totally by wood stove for the last 27 years, a few years before that I helped a friend put up his winter wood. I burn around 1000 cubic feet of wood, about 8 cord. My mother has a horizontal hydraulic wood splitter that I have used to split two winters worth of wood.

This splitter sits very close to the ground, good for rolloing large pieces on but very hard on the back after 20 minutes for me. One solution was to build a platform and place the splitter on it so I could stand up straight, I also made a couple of catch shelves for the pieces that had the be split twice so I didn't have to bend over to pick up the once split piece.

I prefer to split my wood with a mall, sometimes a problem piece gets started with the chainsaw. I will admit there are some pieces of wood that I just leave in the woods because they would not be worth the effort to try to split. Most times it is faster to split my wood by hand than if I used a splitter. I have learned to split for a while, pile for a while, maybe cut for a while and I can still get about 8 hours of work out of this 50 year old body.

If Iwere to purchase a splitter it would be self powered so I could use the tractor to bring wood to it and take the wood away.

Randy
 
   / log splitter #16  
Re: NorthernTools splitter

Excellent review - thanks. A number of us have been wondering about this splitter and nobody has been able to talk about it until now. THanks again.
 
   / log splitter #17  
I have a model KLS 24XE log splitter from C.C. Kelley & Son. I have been running it lately off my remote hydralics on the TC29. It more than handles the splitter and is as fast as running off my larger tractor. It isn't that heavy and easy to hook to the 3pt. It is their economy model but I have used it split about 8-10 cords per year for heating the house.
They come in both open and closed hydralic systems and in a larger size than mine. I split oak, cherry, and other hardwoods with no problem. Even the gnarly trunks and limbs give in to the splitter. They don't look pretty but burn very nicely.
When the dealer installed the remote ($250), they put the little screwdown knob in that channel on the fender. So when I use the splitter, I push the remote handle all the way forward and hold it with the screwdown. The other hydralics don't work but I am stationary and don't need them.
The cost as I remember was around 300-400 and from my backs perspective worth every dollar even tho I use it mostly in the fall.
Bill
 
   / log splitter #18  
Re: NorthernTools splitter

Kent--thanks very much. I've been on the fence re. one of these for a good while, and your information helps push me toward going ahead. Question for the board---does anybody have one of the newer TSC three-point splitters which has a stand and can switch from horizontal to vertical?

Rick
 
   / log splitter #19  
here's an option for you too, runs off the PTO.
Looks like a good HD splitter.
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.timberwolfcorp.com/splitters>here</A>

gary
 
   / log splitter #20  
Re: NorthernTools splitter

rmorgan
Have the Huskee 34 ton from TSC. 9hp gas engine, works great. I prefer seperate from tractor, use fel to bring in chunks and tote the split wood away.
regards
Mutt
 
 

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