Log splitter valve

[moojamboo]

purchased a big box log splitter 5 weeks ago. we really liked this splitter good price.

When the handle is pushed up to engage the auto return of the wedge (retract the wedge) it kicks off sometimes up to 12 times before the wedge is in the fully retracted position. with more cylcles the number of times the wedge stops decreases. run the splitter long enough it will work fine.

Is this a normal operation for a log splitter or should we worry about fixing this issue.

any help/advice would be appreciated.

 

[J_J]

The relief on the retract mode detent is adjustable.

Put a hyd gage in the series path and check the relief pressure and the kick off pressure.

An Energy valve specs.

http://www.energymfg.com/online-catalog/log-splitter-valve-accessories.html

Surplus. Hyd. This one adjustable from 300 to 1750 psi

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7724&catname=

 

[moojamboo]

thank you for your reply.

Is the detent valve something that needs routine adjustment (after break-in)? we didn't have this problem when the splitter was new.

can the valve be adjusted without a meter or could that cause damage to the valve?

If this is something that appears to go away after an number of cycles does the valve need adjusting? do these valves need warm up cycles or is this a sign of a problem?

Thanks again.

 

[J_J]

It may be that there is some debris in the relief, and may flush out.

Notice the number of threads showing, and remove the relief , adjust and inspect and clean and reassemble and see if anything changes.

A hyd gage is only about $30 .

Is it an Energy or Prince valve?

 

[moojamboo]

it is an energy valve.

can you tell me where the adjustment is on this valve? are there diagrams on how to take these valves apart?

thanks for your help.

 

[Splitter Mike]

Its rare that you would need to adjust the valve after it was already set properly and working in the prior weeks. I am not familiar with that valve but sounds like it may be failing. You may want to look into your warranty.

 

[J_J]

He should at least know what the detent pressure is, giving the kickback.

The valve should not be kicking out of detent until the cyl is retracted.

This is an Energy log splitter valve, but don't know if it is the one you have.

http://www.energymfg.com/online-catalog/log-splitter-valve-accessories.html

http://www.energymfg.com/pdf/17498X.pdf

 

[Leejohn]

Could maybe the be the slider hanging up, putting a load on the cyl., that would kick it out.

 

[N8ghz]

That's what I was thinking, being that it 'used' to work ok.
You could retract fully and disconnect the rod from the sliding wedge and see how hard it is to move up and down the bed. If it is extremely tough to move, maybe you bent something or the ways are all clogged-up. If it is harder to move than when new, then the factory setting of the auto-return detent relief may not be high enough now? It sounds like the slide is dragging real hard along the return and the relief thinks it's retracted about a dozen times along the way home?

 

[olde man]

you could also cycle the ram while it is disconnected see how it behaves unloaded

 

[J_J]

If you put a hyd gage in the log splitter circuit and the kick out pressure is low, then it needs cleaned or adjusted.

If the lever is kicking back to neutral at say 1200 psi in the middle of the stroke, then something is binding , not adjusted or frame is warped.

Remove anything on the rod end of the cyl and raise the rod end, then active the valve through all modes and see if things are normal. That way, you eliminate the rail or frame.

 

[moojamboo]

This splitter is still under warentee but we can't get anyone to do the warentee work in our area. we have the option of returning the unit to the box store we bought it from and go and buy one which can be serviced in our area. the splitter only cost $2000. a new valve costs $190 an equivalent splitter from somwhere who will service them is $3500. should we return it? get a new valve? any advice?

as the splitter cycles more and more the valve seems to work fine. and in warmer weather it has to cylce less to work normaly. could this be the nature of the valve/splitter?

 

[J_J]

Did you remove the rod end components, cycle the valve and see if it is the rail/frame?

 

[triptester]

The splitter valve you have appears to be an Energy brand valve which commonly sells for less than $80.00.